The world's best to capture regret in spring Chia Kashiwazaki Sports climbing August 22 13:56

“Composite” men ’s final of the World Sports Climbing Championship.
A cool Japanese ace smiled upon receiving the champion's name in the announcement.
“Aim to be the best in the world, not the top of the Japanese”.
Chia Kashiwazaki won the Tokyo Olympics representative offer for "Spoken execution".
(Sports News Department reporter Misako Imai)

“Mixed” men ’s final, an Olympic event.

Chia Kashiwazaki was second in the first event “Speed”, first in the next “Bouldering”, and the last “Lead” in second place, starting from the previous World Championship In this event, won the first Japanese gold medal.

I was appointed as the representative of Japan for the Tokyo Olympics.

I lost at that time ...

On the day before the opening of this World Championship, there was a word that Amagasaki leaked.

"If you win there, maybe you're not so strong"

That was the last World Championship held in Austria last September.
Kashiwazaki faced “Composite” as the first candidate, but the result was 5th.

The cause of the loss was “speed”, which was aiming for 1st place. It was a weak feeling that I couldn't rewind with my favorite “bouldering”, following the shock.

One year since the defeat.

Kashiwazaki did not escape from facing humiliation and continued to strive for the growth of “technology” and “mental”.

In "Speed", practice the start repeatedly after flying twice.

While playing the sound of the signal recorded on the smartphone, we searched for exquisite timing, and recently, the reaction time can be stabilized at the lower half of 0 seconds.

Furthermore, “bouldering”, which I am most good at.
We tried to overcome the weak points by repeatedly practicing poor movements, such as moving with a foot on a large hold on a sloping wall.

In this final, it was the content of the masterpiece that only one person completed all three different types of tasks.

"How to use regrets next?"

And it ’s the mental side that Kashiwazaki puts his heart on “Kotoshi No. 1, the stretched part”.

(Photo: Mental coach Atsushi Higashi)

"How to make use of regrets next"

After last year's world championship, Kashiwazaki said that he had talked with Mr. Atsushi Higashi, who is a mental coach.

One of the answers I got was to review the purpose of the usual practice.

“Practice for becoming stronger” instead of “Practice for the tournament”

By changing my mind, “I enjoyed the practice and my mentality became stable during the tournament,” says Amagasaki. The feeling of fulfilling daily training continues to be the same at the tournament.

The morning of the composite final on the 21st.
What Amagasaki felt after waking up and moving was his mind, “I can go today”.

When leaving the dormitory, Mr. Higashi said that he said, “No, it ’s okay because I ’m going to do it myself.”

Mr. Higashi said with a smile, “I was able to organize my mind without me.

To Tokyo as the gold medal most promising candidate

Kashiwazaki player who went up to the top of the complex with regret as a spring.
Next year's Tokyo Olympics will be the best candidate for gold medals.

"I would like to aim for a gold medal in a more complete state. The person who expects me will do my best, and the person who supports me will push my back."

Ace, who began to have “mind, skill, and body”, announced strongly.