Cristina Galafate

Updated Wednesday, February 28, 2024-00:54

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Dr. Marko Lens's fascination with

skin care

began at an early age, when he watched his grandmother create remedies with plant oils and extracts.

He even remembers memorizing a two-volume

plant encyclopedia

and spending a childhood filled with alchemical experiments.

Today, an

acclaimed plastic and reconstructive surgeon

, this research scientist is an international authority on aging and skin cancer.

Visiting Spain on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of Tacha, the official point of sale of the Zelens firm, created by Dr., and with the exclusivity of its cabin treatments, we took the opportunity to ask him the keys to skin care in every decade.

"Regardless of this, what is most important would be

good sun protection

at any age," he emphasizes, pointing out above all.


In this decade, skin hygiene and hydration is key.Shutterstock

Lately cosmeticorexia is on everyone's lips on TikTok.

But it is one thing for girls to apply formulations that are not appropriate for their age that irritate them, and quite another for youth prevention with basic hydration and hygiene.

For example, Korean women, who start their beauty routine at 13 years old.

"The skin needs to be hydrated and protected.

80% of sun damage

occurs in our first 20 years of life," says Dr Lens.

At this age you can start using some products to prevent wrinkles and start applying them from the middle of the decade, at 25, he advocates.

"A cream that regenerates tissues and contains peptides. They are the most effective molecules to prevent wrinkles."


After 30, it is good to incorporate exfoliation as a step in your routine.Shutterstock

In this decade, wrinkles

begin to become more pronounced

and we begin to see signs of aging that may be more obvious or more visible, such as spots, describes the Dr. "In this case we need greater

exfoliation of the skin

and that the hydration is deeper. That is why it is advisable to start using an anti-aging routine, which goes beyond hydration."

But less is more.

"The best results are obtained when you have a very specific routine with a limited number of products."



The skin appears

less smooth and firm

than before, especially in certain areas such as the facial oval, so we are going to need firming products.

"You have to incorporate thicker creams into your routine and maintain exfoliation, which will be more necessary."

The eye contour seems to be an essential product in this decade, since the skin in this area is five times thinner.


Mature skin should incorporate an eye contour and products for facial firmness.Shutterstock

The Dr. has proven in consultation that women who use good products and are consistent do not need surgery.

"The exfoliation must be stronger to firm the skin, which is beginning to fall off, and is drier, so we need more nutritious ingredients. At 20, two drops of serum are enough, now, however, we lose water and

the firmness

of the skin barrier, which is beginning to be dysfunctional.

Genetics are extremely important, and if you have good genes you are lucky.

Otherwise, you have to work harder to reverse aging.

"Genes help alleviate the effects of those who do not have a healthy lifestyle.

Up to 40% of the condition of the skin

depends on our genes, but the rest depends on what we do and how we do it: epigenetics," he says.


Dr. Lens has his own brand of botanical cosmetics: Zelens.EM

The sun is spoken of as the skin's great enemy.

But, when we notice spots, moles and lentigines, perhaps it is too late.

We cannot perform miracles, but we can reverse certain damage that has occurred in our DNA, says the doctor.

"The main impact is


. And, if this damage has already occurred, try to correct it as soon as possible, because the more time has passed, the more complicated it will be."

He gives the example of UVB rays, which cause damage to our skin: tanning.

"That pigment is our defense mechanism, so

going tan is not healthy, but rather a price to pay for having that skin color


When we burn, it turns red and we should hydrate it as soon as possible to calm it.

Regarding tanning booths, he is emphatic: "Those who say that light skin is protected in this way before summer are charlatans who are not supported by science. What they can do is

use antioxidants

topically and orally. There are also beta-carotene pills that can reduce the impact of prolonged exposure," he advises.

In fact, the Dr. points out, the

incidence of skin cancer

is higher in Scandinavian countries than in others in southern Europe, such as Spain.

"A person with blonde hair, blue eyes and very light skin who travels to Tenerife on vacation is more exposed than someone who has been in the sun intermittently, who will be less vulnerable."


Right now there is a very important debate about vitamin D deficiency in the population and whether sun protection prevents it from being absorbed.

"Technically speaking,

we can spend a few minutes in the sun without sun protection

and thus get the sufficient amount of vitamin D that our body needs, but those minutes will vary by person and will also depend on whether you have certain more problematic areas covered or not. , for example, because of the clothes and what day it is, more or less sunny."

He gives the example of Spain, where there are many hours of sunshine, compared to other Nordic countries where it would be necessary

to supplement with vitamin


"Studies indicate that sun protection will not affect our production of vitamin D, that is, it will not block it," says Lens.


The Mediterranean diet is, according to Dr. Lens, optimal for the skin.EM

A balanced diet is key to juicy and plump skin.

"We all know that excesses are not positive. Diets very low in carbohydrates create an imbalance that leads to a worse appearance. It is said that

the Mediterranean diet is the best for balanced skin


Furthermore, the Dr. emphasizes, alcohol is an enemy.

"In the same way, a bad rest is the first thing that gives us a tired face."

An altered lifestyle will reduce our endorphins, he asserts.

"It will create more fragile skin that is exposed to damage such as acne and will be less hydrated. Physical exercise improves the quality of the skin and a sedentary lifestyle worsens it, but an excessive amount of sport is also negative."


See this post on Instagram

"I wish I didn't have to say this, but the truth is that

cosmetic surgery is becoming more and more vulgar

," criticizes the Dr. about the similar appearance that seems serial.

"They all have the same face, with very thick lips and very prominent cheekbones. The skin is traumatized by all these injections and lasers. Thus, we see 30-year-old girls who look older from so many treatments."

She believes many women are being influenced by celebrities and


who openly display their touch-ups.

"Many believe they should copy them. A key example is the Kim Kardashian clones."

In her opinion, aesthetic medicine professionals should have serious professional criteria.

"There are many procedures that are being

carried out by people who lack training

, because unfortunately, there is not very strict regulation in this regard. In the United Kingdom, a nurse can do Botox or a dentist is injecting hyaluronic acid. So this It is a problem because even if a doctor tells you that it is not suitable, you go somewhere else.

Furthermore, she thinks that dysmorphia has a psychological origin that will not be fixed with aesthetics.