Walking along Beijing’s Central Axis to look for the “Dragon”: Who is guarding the “First Bridge on the Central Axis”?

　　China News Service, Beijing, February 6th: Strolling along Beijing’s Central Axis to look for the “Dragon”: Who is guarding the “First Bridge on the Central Axis”?

　　China News Network reporter Lu Shaowei

　　In the city of Beijing, there has been a bridge spanning north and south, spanning ancient and modern times for more than 700 years. This bridge is called Wanning Bridge and is also known as the "first bridge on the central axis". It is the intersection of Beijing's central axis and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. a cultural pearl. Today, a statue of a water-suppressing beast from the Yuan Dynasty can still be found here. It is said to be the "Episperus", one of the nine sons of the dragon, which has protected the area for more than 750 years.

On January 31, tourists and vehicles passed through Wanning Bridge. Photo by reporter Lu Shaowei

There is Wanning Bridge first, then there is the Central Axis

　　There is a folk saying, "First there is Wanning Bridge, then there is the central axis." Speaking of the relationship between Wanning Bridge and the central axis, Wu Wentao, vice president of the Beijing Ancient Capital Society, said that the origin of Beijing’s central axis is the central axis of Dadu in the Yuan Dynasty. The traditional capital planning concept of "right society, facing the future market", combined with the nomadic custom of the Mongolian people to live by the water, was laid out around the large water area near Shichahai (then called Jishuitan or Haizi), and a central platform was set up on the northeastern coast of Haizi as a The geometric center of the city; the most edge point of the water protruding eastward, which is where the Wanning Bridge is located, serves as the base point of the central axis of the metropolis. Extending the connection line between the central platform and the Wanning Bridge to the north and south forms a central axis. axis.

　　This central axis was inherited by the later Ming and Qing dynasties, supporting the unique and magnificent order of Beijing and forming the "backbone" of Beijing's ancient capital style.

Youhe Longzi, stationed on both sides of the river

　　The city prospered because of the river, and the river was connected because of the bridge. Next to the Wanning Bridge and on both sides of the Yu River, there are six stone sculptures of water-controlling mythical animals.

　　There are 2 statues on the east side and 4 on the west side. The mythical beast is the "earth viper", one of the nine sons of the dragon. According to legend, it has a big belly and a wide mouth. It is good at swallowing and swallowing. It loves water by nature. It lives by preying on river monsters and can eliminate floods. It is an auspicious thing that protects a place and ensures good weather. In ancient times, Often built with bridge gates.

　　The reporter came closer to take a look and found that despite being hundreds of years old, the stone sculpture was relatively well preserved. It was covered in scales, with a long tail curled back, its head pointed toward the water, and its eyes fixed on the river, looking calm but powerful.

　　Wu Wentao said that there are four stone sculptures of water-restraining mythical animals on the west side, respectively distributed on the north and south sides of the river, one above and below the water on each side, and a dragon ball in the middle.

　　In the dead of winter, the river has turned into thick ice, making it impossible to see the underwater stone sculptures. Wu Wentao said that these stone sculptures also played an "important role" in testing water levels in ancient times. When the water level submerges the paws of the water-suppressing beast, it indicates that the water level is high and preparations must be made for flood control; when the water level drops to the head of the water-suppressing beast, it indicates that the water level is too low and is not conducive to sailing; and when the water level happens to reach the dragon ball, It means the water level is normal.

On January 31, a stone sculpture of a water-controlling mythical animal on the west side of Wanning Bridge. Photo by reporter Lu Shaowei

Water and land hub, connecting north and south

　　Wanning Bridge is a single stone arch bridge and a typical representative of traditional Chinese bridge building technology. It was not only a bridge that functioned as land transportation, but also an important water conservancy project at that time. Its biggest feature is that the bridge and lock are integrated, and under the bridge is the sluice. By lifting and raising the sluice, the water level is adjusted to facilitate the passage of boats, so that the south-bound canal boats can sail directly into Dadu City and park in Haizi.

　　"During the Yuan Dynasty, the prosperity of water transportation led to the prosperity of surrounding commerce." Wu Wentao said that most of the material supply in the Yuan Dynasty relied on water transportation. On the basis of the North-South Grand Canal of the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Yuan Dynasty further cut and straightened the Grand Canal, and successively dug the Jeju River and Huitong River, allowing the Grand Canal to run directly from Tongzhou to the south of the Yangtze River. Guo Shoujing, an outstanding water conservancy expert in the Yuan Dynasty, successfully solved the transportation problem from Tongzhou to Dadu City through detailed surveys of water resources and topography in the Beijing area. Jishuitan in the city became the terminal terminal of the Grand Canal. It is clear that the Upper Lock (also known as Haizi Lock) is the last lock for ships to enter the end of the Grand Canal. At the same time, Wanning Bridge is also the first bridge that ships must pass when leaving Jishuitan Wharf.

　　According to historical records, on the day when the canal was opened, Kublai Khan, the founder of the Yuan Dynasty, stood on the Wanning Bridge. He looked east and saw the canal boats connected end to end. Excitedly named the river "Tonghui River". Yang Zai, a poet of the Yuan Dynasty, also left a well-known poem to describe this scene - "The Jingou River begins to flow, and passenger boats are tied to the Haizi Bridge. However, in the spring of the south of the Yangtze River, the water rises, and the waves in the sky are filled with light gulls." The "Haizi Bridge" in the poem is the Wanning Bridge.

　　According to records of the Yuan Dynasty, on the east coast of Haizi at that time, from Wanning Bridge to the Bell and Drum Towers, there were rice markets, noodle markets, silk and satin markets, jewelry markets, goose and duck markets, fruit markets... all kinds of shops were lined up in rows; teahouses, restaurants, shops and workshops were like a forest of flags. There were many merchants from the north and south and merchants from the western regions, and there was a lot of traffic. From the 30th year of the Yuan Dynasty (1293) when the river was opened to navigation to the end of the Yuan Dynasty for about 50 years, a vast fleet of ships passed through the capital city in an endless stream, passing under the Wanning Bridge and entering the Jishuitan Pier, presenting a picture of the Yuan Dynasty "Along the River During Qingming Festival", and this business line continues to this day.

　　Today, the area around Wanning Bridge is still very lively, with various restaurants, entertainment and other shops lined up. Shichahai, Nanluoguxiang and other scenic spots attract a large number of tourists.

On February 22, 2023, Wanning Bridge, "the first bridge on Beijing's central axis" located in Xicheng District, Beijing, was reflected in the sunshine. Wanning Bridge was built in the Yuan Dynasty. It is a single-hole stone arch bridge that spans the Yuhe River on the east bank of Shichahai Qianhai and is adjacent to Shichahai Qianhai in the west. It is determined by the "Beijing Central Axis Protection and Management Plan (2022-2035)" One of the elements of the heritage area. Photo by China News Service reporter Hou Yu

After many changes, it still exists today

　　Although it is winter, the Wanning Bridge is still crowded with tourists, and cars pass in an orderly manner on the flat bridge deck. Wu Wentao told reporters that Wanning Bridge was a famous "overpass" in history.

　　She said that due to the frequent traffic of watercraft under the Wanning Bridge at that time, the bridge should have a considerable height from the water. Especially when it is clarified that when the upper gate is closed and the lower gate is opened, the water level of the canal drops, and the height of the Wanning Bridge becomes even more eye-catching, like a "bridge in the sky". In addition, after Emperor Shizu of the Yuan Dynasty unified the Central Plains, he established the northern and southern capitals of Shangdu and Dadu, and implemented a system of patrolling the two capitals. Wanning Bridge was the "Bridge of the Emperor" that emperors of the Yuan Dynasty must pass through when entering and leaving Dadu. Hence the name "Overpass". Xu Youren, a poet of the Yuan Dynasty, wrote in "Drinking the Sea in a Boat and Asking People to Drink in Xiejie" that "the smoke from the willow branches is heavy with the spring beauty, close to the sky bridge, and I live in the orchids." The "overpass" in this article refers to the Wanning Bridge.

　　"Wanning Bridge, as the intersection of Beijing's central axis and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, is not only a witness to the historical changes in Beijing, but also a witness to the development of Beijing's water transportation. It is a very precious historical landmark of the ancient capital Beijing, and it is a rare in the world that dates back to the Yuan Dynasty. The historical and cultural value of the cultural relics that continue to this day is self-evident," Wu Wentao said.

　　According to historical records, during the Xuande period of the Ming Dynasty, the Imperial City of Beijing expanded eastward, and a section of the upper reaches of the Tonghui River was enclosed within the city. Cattle boats could no longer enter the city, and Wanning Bridge also lost its function for water boats. The upper structure of the Wanning Bridge arches was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty, and the bridge railings were replaced in the Qing Dynasty. In 1924, in order to facilitate road traffic on the bridge, the bridge deck was almost "flattened" and the camber was greatly reduced.

On February 22, 2023, looking at Wanning Bridge, the "No. 1 Bridge on Beijing's Central Axis" located in Xicheng District, Beijing. Wanning Bridge was built in the Yuan Dynasty. It is a single-hole stone arch bridge that spans the Yuhe River on the east bank of Shichahai Qianhai and is adjacent to Shichahai Qianhai in the west. It is determined by the "Beijing Central Axis Protection and Management Plan (2022-2035)" One of the elements of the heritage area. Photo by China News Service reporter Hou Yu

　　Wu Wentao said that the name of Wanning Bridge means "ten thousand years of eternal peace, solid and immortal". Over the past hundreds of years, it has undergone several changes and still continues to this day. The bridge has also been built at different times.

　　In the 1990s, the famous historical geographer Hou Renzhi proposed the important status and protection of Wanning Bridge to the Beijing Municipal Party Committee and Municipal Government. At his request, the above-ground part of Wanning Bridge received necessary and appropriate protection.

　　In 2000, the old channel of the Tonghui River and related relics were sorted out under the Wanning Bridge, showing the intrinsic connection between the Wanning Bridge and the cultural landscape on the east and west sides, forming a complete heritage site in the Grand Canal Cultural Belt, greatly enhancing its Landscape value and cultural significance. The Yuhe Heritage Park thus developed has not only significantly improved the living environment of surrounding residents, but has also become a new hot spot for citizens to visit and relax. This provides a foundation and precedent for the organic combination of historical heritage protection and urban renewal development in the region.

　　In 2014, the China Grand Canal Project was successfully selected into the World Heritage List, clarifying that the Upper Gate (Wanning Bridge) became one of the four heritage sites in the Beijing section of the Grand Canal.

　　"The arches, railings, pillars, etc. of Wanning Bridge have been well protected, but this is not enough." Wu Wentao said frankly, "Wanning Bridge should be freed from heavy traffic pressure and the improvement of its surroundings should be strengthened. , to further enhance its protection and display.”

　　In the evening, as the sun sets, Wanning Bridge is still busy with traffic, and the surrounding scenic spots and shops are crowded with people. This is the last week before the Spring Festival in the Year of the Dragon in the Chinese lunar calendar, and citizens are busy welcoming the New Year. Under the bustling scene, the ancient Wanning Bridge is waiting for the first bell of the new year to ring from the bell tower in the north. (over)