Gema García Marcos

Updated Monday,15January2024 - 12:15

Victoria Beckham's Instagram account goes a long way. She brings out her husband, David, fixing the television in her underpants as well as portraying herself lying in bed with a rather disturbing luminous mask that, according to the text of the post in question, is one of her multiple steps that make up her complete daily beauty routine.

This 'homemade' treatment to which the designer devotedly indulges is a mask of LED lights - the one she uses, specifically, costs about 2,000 euros - and has become super fashionable in recent times for the benefits it supposedly provides: it reduces expression wrinkles, stimulates collagen production, moisturizes, purifies... The question is: how much truth is there in all this?

"LED masks use what we call 'Low Level Laser Therapy' (LLLT) to produce a cutaneous photobiomodulation that provides various benefits for the skin depending on the wavelength (color) we use. The red color is anti-inflammatory and anti-aging; the anti-bectarian blue; green also modulates pigmentation...", explains Carlos Morales Raya, dermatologist and director of the Carlos Morales Raya Clinic.

However, Dr. Morales Raya warns us that "the scientific studies that support the effectiveness of these devices are carried out with machines for use in the clinic, where the energy, luminance and irradiance are well measured and are usually powerful. Home devices use fewer diodes or lights, so these parameters are obviously going to be lower and their effectiveness, therefore, is not the same."

For this reason, he continues, "despite the fact that some devices for home use have studies that support their effectiveness in cases of acne and rosacea, most of those sold online or in large supermarkets lack them and do not specify the irradiance or luminance parameters. In other words, due to this lack of information, we cannot be sure that they produce the biological effect of photobiomodulation that is sought," he argues.

In this sense, dermatologist Paloma Borregón explains that, "although LED masks are commonly used in many beauty centers to treat acne and have an anti-wrinkle or anti-inflammatory effect, they are not miraculous." And he shares Morales Raya's opinion. "These types of treatments don't do any harm, but they're not very effective either, because, for domestic use, their potency is very low."

Ana Revuelta, doctor specialising in aesthetic medicine and adverse effects at Merz aesthetics, ratifies the benefits of the 'professional use' of LED masks: "Through their light system they provide certain benefits to the skin, it is what we know as phototherapy, and their operation depends on the wavelength at which the light emits causing a biomodulation of the dermis, that is, to balance our skin biologically."

However, "the availability of online purchase of LED masks for facial care does not always imply an advantage. It is true that skincare routines are increasingly in demand, not only in clinics but also for home treatments, but it is important to remember that not everything goes. A medical protocol and monitoring should always be followed. There are many medications that are photosensitive and, if taken at the same time as being exposed to this type of light, could cause pigmentary alterations. In addition, it would be contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding or in the case of immunocompromised patients."

Marta García, founder of Marta García estheticians, emphasizes the importance of making sure that these devices have the necessary certifications. "The main effects of LED devices or 'beauty gadgets' for home use are the work on cellular mitochondria and the stimulation of ATP (cellular energy) synthesis, immunomodulation and vasodilation of tissues to obtain greater oxygenation. However, not everyone succeeds. What's more, some, due to their low quality, can even have the opposite effect. Therefore, it is essential that they have FDA and EEC approvals and certifications, which ensure that this equipment fulfills the desired functions."

For her part, pharmacist Marta Masi leaves no room for doubt. "We, from the pharmacy, prefer to make a dermocosmetic recommendation for home and rely on aesthetic medical treatments in specialized clinics such as radiofrequency, which is super effective and is what I advise the most." Let's take note.