【Commentary】The crop people in Juwan, Zaoyang, when they go home from farming, they always have to come to a bowl of sour noodles, and the hot oil sweeps the sweat glands with acid, and the sleepiness disappears.
【Commentary】Chinese pasta culture is thick, there are Zhongning artemisia noodles that "pray for well-being", Lin'an Suo noodles that symbolize longevity, and noodles that are both delicious and "functional" such as sour noodles are rare. In China, noodles are a regular in the morning, while in Zaoyang, sour noodles are usually only served in dinner. Here, the usual sourdough noodle shop is closed in the morning.
【During the same period】Hubei Zaoyang Juwan sour noodle traditional production technique non-genetic inheritor Ju Xingbo
When summer comes, it is a scene of staggered chips, feasting, and eating sour noodles. No matter where we Zaoyang people are in the field or in any location, he will never forget to come home and eat this bowl of sour noodles.
【Commentary】 Acid is the first of the five flavors, Chinese acid has a long history, the "Book of Shang" recorded, "If you make a soup, you can only salt plum." Since then, the juice formed by mashing plums has become a common condiment in people's diets. People also used Ume to treat upper heat and lower cold, and its medicinal value has been recorded in many Chinese medicine works such as "Typhoid Miscellaneous Diseases".
【During the same period】Hubei Zaoyang Juwan sour noodle traditional production technique non-genetic inheritor Ju Xingbo
We go to farm work in the field, are all manual labor, (labor) is relatively large, and then there is no modern machinery, transportation, after a day of work, the body sweats more, and it is easy to typhoid fever, after eating sour pulp noodles, fatigue suddenly disappears, the body, stomach feels very comfortable, this is a long time to sum up an experience.
【Commentary】Sour paste noodles originated in the Qing Dynasty. According to legend, a noodle shop owner surnamed Peng at that time put the greens in a tank to ferment and become sour in order to prepare for the winter. One day, when the vegetarian dishes accompanied by pasta were exhausted, he used sauerkraut water as a soup, and the diners were full of praise. Over the years, it has evolved to form today's sour paste.
【Commentary】Zaoyang, located in the east of the confluence of the Tangbai River into the Han River, has fertile land and developed agriculture. The long history of farming has nurtured the tenacity of local farmers. Anyone who understands the production process of sour pulp noodles is touched by its complicated labor. This is vividly reflected in the "simmer".
【During the same period】 Peng Guangcai, owner of a sour pulp noodle restaurant in Juwan Town, Zaoyang, Hubei Province
It is very complicated, you need to refine the lard, you have to chop minced garlic and green onion, fry for a long time, (basically) three or four hours, put oil residue after stir-frying, put water and salt and seasoning, (finally) out of the pan.
【Commentary】Sourdough noodles are a delicacy quenched by time. So is "simmering", and so is "soaking slurry". Boil a small amount of flour and edible alkali, blanch celery, store in a clay pot, and wait for one to half a month to ferment and become sour.
【During the same period】 Peng Guangcai, owner of a sour pulp noodle restaurant in Juwan Town, Zaoyang, Hubei Province
The dishes of the day cannot be used, they can only be put in the jar, it takes two or three days, and the previous ones can be used. [We put the fresh food under the jar] and use the previous dishes.
【Commentary】After doing this, the preparation of a bowl of sour noodles is more than half. Finally, heat the sour slurry water, boil the noodles, chop the soaked sour water vegetables into the bottom of the bowl, put in the sour slurry water, add noodles, pour the cheeks, and a bowl of sour slurry noodles is made. Diners mix the noodles, soup and cheeks evenly, and drink a sour soup, which suddenly feels fragrant, sour, and has an endless aftertaste.
【During the same period】Hubei Zaoyang Juwan sour noodle traditional production technique non-genetic inheritor Ju Xingbo
Before eating noodles, you need to stir the pulp water and cheeks and this noodle well, drink the pulp water before eating, take a sip of the pulp water, your stomach and intestines feel comfortable. (Juwan people) entertaining guests may order some marinated dishes, cold dishes, drink a little beer, and then have a bowl of sour noodles after eating, which neutralizes the greasy (of the marinated vegetables).
【Commentary】Ju Xingbo's elders used to run a sour noodle restaurant, and now this old house is dilapidated and depressed, but Ju Xingbo will go back every year to see it, and the sour noodles flow with his childhood memories. Today, Ju Xingbo's greatest wish is to pass on the skills of making sour noodles, so he has opened intangible cultural heritage training courses, made instant sour noodles, and cooperated in scientific research projects.
【During the same period】Hubei Zaoyang Juwan sour noodle traditional production technique non-genetic inheritor Ju Xingbo
Many foreign tourists, Shanghai, and Germany, they came and ate sour noodles, they thought it was delicious, they could take ours (fast sour noodles) when they left, and then they could not go to the store, and they could also eat this delicacy at home.
【Commentary】A mouthful of sour soup, with consolation and hard work. Zaoyang people who are running away, when they are tired, they will always think of the sour noodles of their hometown, which is the only nostalgia belonging to Zaoyang people.
Zhang Qianlong reports from Xiangyang, Hubei Province
Responsible Editor: [Liu Pai]