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Those who try to make their way in music always complain about how the industry functions as a very closed ghetto full of mastodons that rarely accepts opening up to new additions. You can make all the music you want and have your friends listen to it, but be on the news or have a big company bet on you or that some musical awards value the quality of your work more than your name ... Alas, that is another matter.

Well, in fashion it is that raised to a thousand. With the aggravating factor that it is not only a closed 'club', but, on many occasions, a Spanish designer very focused on the matter tells us, it is a club where its members practically do not speak to each other. A very exclusive club where secrecy is the norm and persecution mania, almost a matter of protocol.

Designer Robert Wun at his London headquarters. GETTY IMAGES

It is not surprising therefore that Robert Wun, a Hong Kong based in London with an impressive fashion culture behind him and a dazzling technique (do you know that having an idea in your head and being able to reproduce it in detail no matter how complex it is, like Iris van Herpen? Well, anyway) has taken almost a decade to be 'accepted' by the high design community. In this was directly involved, of course, the Special Prize of Andam (National Association for the Development of the Arts of French Fashion) for young talents, which facilitated his debut at the closing of the last edition of Parisian Haute Couture, at the end of January.

And everybody was speechless.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

Let's burn the bride

As Wun is from this world, not from the previous one, he knows that attracting attention is a basic, even if you have already achieved your parade, among the greats, in the Place Vendome in Paris. True fashion lovers would have had enough to see their coats and blazers of impeccable invoice (what pattern and what realization, mother) despite their unexpected but perfect collections, folds, scrambles, boards and slits, to realize that we had 'new boy in the office'. To these same, but also to those who have an approach to design, let's call it something more thick underlining, were left breathless by their burned girlfriend.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

If anyone thought that Robert Wun meant something with this burnt wedding dress, something type that the institution of marriage is on its last legs, he was right and wrong at the same time. Wun did mean something with this and other dresses she paraded in Paris. But in his case it is pure metainguistics. Speaking to Dazed, the dressmaker has stated that the collection presented itself was inspired by the concept of fear: "Transforming accidents and stains, things that normally would not be a source of inspiration for Haute Couture, into craftsmanship. What's the worst thing that can happen to a hundred-thousand-pound dress? Maybe someone will spill wine on him? How do we turn that stain into embroidery? How do we turn burn marks into a technique? I really wanted to see if Haute Couture could be more than just pretty dresses and beautiful flowers, so I needed to challenge traditional conventions."

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

It was not intended, he went on to say, to be "controversial". For him, he explained, it is natural to question everything. But at the same time, he added, "I have a lot of respect for what Haute Couture means. It's what makes fashion special in the first place. How beautiful to be able to invest time in making something beautiful! Otherwise, we end up making clothes. I think the only thing I've questioned with these garments is the perception of Haute Couture: can it be more than a beautiful fantasy, can it be confrontation?"

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

The message: be your own fantasy

Wun's enormous technique allows him, as he says, to focus his work on fantasy. "I do not have to be thinking about clothes that people are going to wear in their day to day," he said about the apparent 'inaccessibility' of his proposals. The designer, who has reported having suffered bullying in his childhood, claims for fashion its role as liberator of fantasies, as a tool to build our own role in society. In his case, these fantasies are usually futuristic, which he embodies on silhouettes with a strong sculptural charge. "The brand's collections explore narratives of identity, visibility and liberation through fashion," she describes herself.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

Robert Wun was discovered by Hong Kong powerhouse Joyce Boutique when he presented his collection for graduation at the London College of Fashion in 2012. He launched his own brand in 2014. His debut on the Parisian catwalk responded to the invitation of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to take charge of the closing show, after having won the ANDAM Grand Prix. There she dazzled with her proposal, of which we do not stay with the dress full of wine stains (embroidered) or with the burns ... We were left with the layer covered in raindrops that were actually crystals. Because in that garment he makes his vocation as a magician very clear. Don't lose it, please.

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