The taste of the world

William Ledeuil: Asia-mutated chef, smuggler with a bubbling flame, spontaneous, free: wildly joyful!

Line-caught red tuna, Shiso-morello cherry vinaigrette.

© Louis-Laurent Grandadam

By: Clémence Denavit Follow

4 mins

He says it almost with a smile: “ 

You have to be selfish to be a cook, I only cook what I like to eat

 ”: you look at him surprised, this candor is unusual.

Is this the secret: this freedom of tone which gives William Ledeuil, the freedman, wings and allows him to play?

Better yet, play by creating a singular language with French vocabulary and Asian connections, which is transmitted with enthusiasm and passion in the kitchens of its restaurants, whose accents we recognize in the generation of cooks that the chef has trained?

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“ 

Asian cuisine appeals to me a lot because it is cuisine based on feeling, instantaneous, spontaneity, which suits me

.

»

You just have to listen to him, William Ledeuil, speak with modesty about the roots of his "taste" for Asia.

The classically trained chef discovers broths, herbs, freshness, lemongrass and coconut with the cuisine of a Cambodian friend, then curious, self-taught, he goes to the restaurants and markets of the 13th arrondissement of Paris – l one of the Parisian cradles of Asian immigration to France – “ 

I had a friend who was a cook, who had traveled around the world, who knew these Asian cuisines well, we went to restaurants a lot in the 13th district to taste, taste again, try, with the cookbooks, I had my images and here in France, I had the products

 ".

The revelation operates during his first trip to Thailand, to Bangkok.

He tastes broths, herbs, curry, and learns cooking in its context, that of everyday life, of the street “ 

a cuisine of feeling, instantaneous and fragrant.

I wanted to understand this cuisine, in their context.

And that allowed me to write my score afterwards

 ”.

Chef William Ledeuil, Ze Kitchen galaxie and Clémence Denavit.

© Cécile Bonici/RFI

torchbearer

In 20 years, William Ledeuil has trained and cooked with many young cooks, French and elsewhere – his teams come from all over the world – the chef and his brigades nourish each other through sharing and discovery.

Asia leaves its mark, the chef above all a tone, a grammar.

He is delighted when he sees some take flight – and decline their own language in the kitchen.

He transmits with talent, and gives that extra soul – confidence?

– a delicately and perfectly balanced generation.

With

William Ledeuil

, chef, owner of 3 restaurants Ze Kichen Galerie

Ze Kitchen Galerie

one star in the Michelin guide, KGB

Kitchen Galerie Bis |

Ze Kitchen Gallery

, Kicthen Ter

Kitchen Ter(re) |

Ze Kitchen Gallery

William Ledeuil is also the author of "

Vegetal

 ", " 

Bouillons

 ", " 

Pasta otherwise

 ", " 

ze kitchen gallery

 ", published by La Martinière.

William Ledeuil chose a knife for utensils, a yuzu for ingredients.

In images, in pictures

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For further

- In Phan Thie 

In Phan Thiêt, the nuoc mam has its museum - Le Courrier du VietNam

- To taste the cuisine of Adrien Ferrand, two addresses, EELS

Home |

Restaurant eels (restaurant-eels.com)

  and The Tiger Brigades Tiger 

Brigade – Click & collect & Delivery Uber Eats

- To taste the cuisine of Pandora Metayer:

Kitchen Ter(re)

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris

- Citrus fruits: conservatory of citrus fruits

- Citrus

- The conservatory of taste

and on

Facebook Palonbaggia beach in Corsica.

Musical programming

- Can't Hurry Love

by Phil Collins

- Mad

from Super Jazz Club.

The recipe


Pineapple and cherry tomato soup


Le Végétal

Book

- La Martinière


William Ledeuil Edition





SERVES 4 —PREPARATION 15 MINUTES —MARINADE 45 MINUTES


Every year, at the start of the holidays, my friends ask me for this gazpacho.

Easy, delicious and quick, it has everything to please

.”



INGREDIENTS


1 kg of pineapple tomatoes


15 cl of olive oil


5 cl of white balsamic vinegar


5 cl of rice vinegar


1⁄2 stick of lemongrass


1 teaspoon of fresh ginger


8 black cherries (Burlat type)


8 yellow cherries ( napoleon type)


1 tablespoon rice vinegar


1 tablespoon olive oil


60 g cream of black olives (preferably Kalamata or taggiasche)


2 stalks of dill


2 stalks of bronze fennel


Fleur de sel, pepper.



Cut the pineapple tomatoes into pieces, season in a salad bowl with olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, rice vinegar, minced lemongrass, chopped ginger, fleur de sel and pepper.

Leave to marinate for about 30 minutes in the fridge.


Cut the cherries into quarters after pitting them.


Marinate them for 15 minutes at room temperature, with 1 tablespoon of rice vinegar and 1 tablespoon of olive oil.



Blend the tomatoes, filter and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Serve the tomato soup in cold soup plates, arrange the quarters of black and yellow cherries, a few points of black olive cream.

Sprinkle with dill leaves and bronze fennel.



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