In Provence, Christmas Eve is marked by millimeter traditions (but still very controversial).

The dinner consists first of a "big supper", a service in seven "lean" courses, that is to say without poultry or game, then of the farandole of thirteen desserts to be tasted when returning from mass. from midnight.

In the kitchen, tradition is reassuring.

And if there is one that has made a place for itself in French folklore, it is that of Provencal Christmas.

A complete ritual around the Christmas meal and the midnight mass that Laurent Mariotte, Olivier Poels and Charlotte Langrand detailed, Saturday, in the program "La Table des bons vivant".

To accompany our gourmets, chef Michel Meissonnier, a specialist in Provençal cuisine, also explained this tradition on Saturday.

>> Find all of Laurent Mariotte's shows in podcast and replay here

In Provence, the Christmas meal begins with the disposition.

"The table is placed on three white tablecloths to represent the Nativity. Above, there is a three-branched candlestick and the loaf of bread is also cut into three", explains Michel Meissonnier.

A "big supper" with fish

Then it's time to move on to the “big supper”, which breaks down into “seven lean dishes”.

It may seem contradictory on paper, but not at all.

"This means that there are no poultry or game, explains Michel Meissonnier. Traditionally, we therefore find mainly fish, such as cod or shad, and snails. Cardes, which are the stems of the chard, are cooked in gratin or accompanied by an anchoïade. 

There is also "aïgo boulido".

“It's a broth with garlic, thyme and bay leaf,” explains chef Michel Meissonnier.

This can be enjoyed during the "big supper" or after midnight mass, just before moving on to the famous thirteen desserts.

Thirteen sweet treats

So after midnight mass, it's time for sweet treats.

Thirteen in all, to represent Jesus and his 12 apostles.

We thus find apples, pears, verdaù (a green Christmas melon), fresh grapes, sorbes (fruits of the cormier), white nougat, black nougat, walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and figs. dry, an oil pump (a kind of sweet brioche) and, finally, raisins.

Discover our gastronomy newsletter

Receive our newsletter "A table!" Every Sunday at 10 am

to excel behind the stove with recipes, advice and tips & tricks from Laurent Mariotte, his columnists and his guests.

Subscribe here

https://newsletter.europe1.fr/gastronomie/

Of course, this list is very often questioned.

Depending on whether you are in Aix or Marseille, there may be variations, with each competing for the monopoly of the REAL list.

Which is perhaps the best proof of the importance of this Provençal tradition.