The artistic history, and Italian in particular, may be known by the names of the Renaissance man, the chemist, the Venetian magician, and many others, but the most famous of him is the painter, the inventor, the theater designer, the fashion designer, the furniture, the photographer and the artist. Mariano Fortione, is the revival of the technique of textile clotting, known as the «Plesi», after it disappeared since the time of the Pharaohs, and after them the Greeks, to be the dress «Delphos», invented and designed at the beginning of the twentieth century, one of the most inventions that are still in the fashion world .

And strange to be the most influential and innovators in the world of fashion, one of its fans one day and was known about him after and not accept this area.

Perhaps the tendency of Fortione to get out of the limelight, and his preoccupation with the invention and development of techniques and methods of all his interest and curiosity in various fields, was the reason why his name is widely spread among those interested in the world of fashion, especially that it did not live for him, but through his dress Almkbos full Patented and patented technology, along with 20 other patents, made him one of the most influential in the world of fashion and shouts, turning this idea, which was in history far away exclusively from kings and rich, into a piece available to all women.

Arabic magic

Born on May 11, 1871, Mariano Fortione e Madrazo was born to an aristocratic family of art, history and cultures, especially those associated with the East and his charm, while both his father and grandfather were well-known painters, making Fortione's son's interests and talent predictable.

The great influence of the East and Arab world is evident, but it will not be very strange to know that the family is originally from the city of Granada in the south of Spain, and that his father was interested and interested in everything that is Especially in the Middle East, especially in the Middle East. He was fond of the young child, surrounded by tales of ancient cultures, ancient times, furniture, carpets, armor and war tools. , Where Mariano Fortioni e Marca died , Unexpectedly in Rome in 1874, when his son was still in the age of three, and the impact was quoted by his mother's family to Paris in 1875, to spend his youth between them and Rome.

The passion for art and his skills may be in the son's veins, but it is natural that there is support and guidance for this inherited talent to take this feat. His uncle Raimondo, who was a painter and sculptor Auguste Rodin, is one of the most influential of Mariano's life, The deeper influence on the young artist's debut, to move to Germany later to study chemistry and physics for some time.

Much of the sudden changes in the life of Mariano the boy and the boy, he chose nothing, from the death of his father, or the move to Paris, while most of them moved to the direction of events, suffering from severe sensitivity of horses, which was, of course, , Which made the city of Venice, Italy, which the family visited in 1889, for its different artistic excellence, and then move to it permanently in 1890, the best solution to avoid his health problem with horses, being the only city that relies on a complex system of water channels, The city can not be moved But only by foot or by boat, to become this charming city, the most important and most powerful in the creative world of Fortuny, and the city that adopted, known and associated with his name since he moved to it and is still at the age of 18 until his death in 1949, taking a huge palace from the 15th century And the ground floor of this palace, the place that embraced his curiosity and innovations and the start of his various works of art, and the place where his holdings and those of his father, to become Granati with wide eyes and curiosity, «the magic of Venice».

Away from fashion

It may be a novelty to be the most influential and innovators in the world of fashion, is at the same time one of the most people who are not interested in it, was known for him after and not accepted for this area, whether commercial, or the role of couture, but was known chiefly as a painter, Which led him to draw and design theater scenes and the effects of light, and the costumes of the theater, which he was passionate about, having known to this fascinating world in a small age during his visit to the Baldini "Baldini" and commented on the theater and its tone since that moment.

As he deepened and immersed himself in the world of theater, his idea of ​​developing a new form of indirect lighting systems that created scenes of play that was difficult to achieve began to change the form of the theater and the effects of the scenes to this day, while the Fortioni design of indirect reflection turned out to be one of the most famous Her idea is still supported in the studios.

The radical transformation of Fortioni's artistic status, after being known to the German music of Richard Wagner in 1892, transformed this figure of symbolic art into the most important and powerful inspiration for Fortioni, eagerly embracing the symbolic school that was then launched that broke the barriers between literature, Music, and visual art, while Venice was taken by Wagner as a permanent station for two periods of his life, a "settlement" of the most important artists of the time, such as Helio, Gabriel de Anunzio, Luigi Nuno, Jose Maria Sert, Renaldo Han and many others.

Ideal control

Fortuny did not only enjoy Wagner's music, but was influenced by his writings that explain his way of composing music, based on the idea of ​​"universal artwork" or "artistic combination", which means controlling all the factors that can affect the final artwork. , It meant controlling everything that could affect his final operatic product, such as music, the platform, the composition of the scenes, and the lighting, which made him build the Vistebelhaus theater with its own specific specifications in Berth, Germany, Previously practiced in ancient Greece, which perfectly suited Fortione , Is a devotee and immersed in ancient Greek art and culture, which led later to the famous Fstanh. Fortione did not take what was then available in the world of art, but his curiosity was always the main engine of his innovations, for example, was not the drawing support available at the time suited to him, he designed a footrest linked wheelchair, which made it easy to move in different directions In his own studio, making the most of the lighting coming from different windows. He also invented and mixed its colors in a special chemical form, which often had a different sparkle.

He also designed his own prints, which began with a draft of all prints, and then carved them on the molds, and printed the drawings on the raw materials, and the design of the dress to determine the location and shape of the prints in the final product, whether dresses or robes or shawls, Subject to his strict control.

Game Light

In the light, Fortioni saw a magical element capable of changing the details of everything his hands could create, whether it was a painting, a piece of cloth, or an innovative lighting, making Venice its ideal place, one of the most influential cities The change of light and movement in it, which is evident in the idea of ​​the «Plesi», which is the goal of this genius to symbolize the sun and movement on the body, and revived by the Greeks who were famous for the hidden dresses encircling the natural curvature, innovating a new technique based on heat and water and series Of copper and porcelain cylinders.

The dress of Delphos, inspired by the narrow dresses of the ancient Greeks, caused a sensation in the fashion world when it was invented in 1907, and the wife of the dressmaker, Henriette Negrin, contributed to the creation of the dress he met in Paris in 1897.

The main advantage of Fortuny's design is to enhance the beauty of women's natural body flexions away from braids and loose and wide layers of clothing. The idea of ​​balance was created at a time when the suffocating "corset" squeezed on the woman's trunk to reduce her waistline, the most important piece she needed to be socially acceptable. , While the simple "Plesi" dress completely rejected all those harsh restrictions hidden under the layers of thin cloth, and this soft dress of the drop and cradle at the same time to the body of women, soft colors and bright, the opposite, especially since the secret of the distinction of this dress lies in « Not and Up »women's wear any piece underneath it can affect the curves of her body or adhesion of canned foods and flex it silk.

The lightness of the dress is balanced with a flexible compass, with the weight of the glass beads of the framed glass and the side panels to maintain its specific effect on the body's folds.

The dress of Delphos has become the most important fashion in the world. The most famous women in the world of dance and acting and the women of the society were the first to wear this dress, which was supposed to be a dress for the home only, but the implementation of feat and beauty colors And his high sensory impact, has turned him into one of the most famous dresses for graduation, photography and concerts.

Famous

20th century celebrities wore the Delphos dress, including Eleanor Diaz, Sarah Bernhard, Isadora Duncan, and Renee Flori. Often the famous art connoisseur Peggy Guggenheim appeared wearing the famous Mariano Fortioni dress. Lauren Bacall wore the original red dress at the Oscars in 1978, while the writer and philosopher Susan Sontag was buried in her rare dress in 2004.

Top Value

Although the fabric of the "Plesi", is available frequently, and repeated appearance of the theme from time to time, and the value of this cloth according to the quality of silk and the method of implementation (manual or mechanical), but the dresses «Delphos», which was Mariano Fortioni made by his hands, Is still considered one of the most desired dresses and desired to date among those interested in fashion and researchers, and is considered the most expensive and the highest value so far, where the price of one dress, in good condition, between 10 and 30 thousand dollars.

Fortione's tendency to get away from the limelight caused

In the non-proliferation of his name in the fashion world

The follower of the work of this innovator sees great influence in the East and the Arabs. However, it will not be strange to know that the family is originally from the Spanish city of Granada.

1871

The year Mariano Fortioni was born in Italy.

20

Patented fashion world.

1907

The Delphos dress makes a big bang in the fashion world.