Giovanni Laidò has worry lines on his forehead.

The 43-year-old Italian lives in one of the most beautiful corners of Italy, at the spur of Italy's boot in the Gargano on the east coast of Puglia, and he has two professions that fulfill him: As a scientist, he works at a state agricultural research institute in the nearby town of Foggia in genes from wheat and other plant foods.

His second activity is more a vocation than a profession: Laidò grows oranges and lemons and spends almost every free minute to ensure that his area becomes a serious producer again - just like more than a hundred years ago when people in the United States and exported to the Tsar's court in Saint Petersburg.

Christian Schubert

Economic correspondent for Italy and Greece.

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It is this "side job" that is giving him stomach ache at the moment, because his orange and lemon trees have been infected by a parasite imported from Asia.

He had to cut out 1000 kilograms of wood from his 1500 trees.

A large part of this year's harvest is under threat.

The growers had to ask the government for help.

“It's a difficult year and next year may be even worse.

Despite the rising costs, we have not increased the prices.

But like previous crises, we will overcome this setback," said the fruit grower.

Gargano is the smallest citrus fruit growing area in Italy.

There are no fields here, but "gardens", as the fruit growers call their areas.

The site extends above the cliffs of the Adriatic over a gently rolling landscape and is divided into small plots, surrounded by high old stone walls.

Olive groves and forests also dot the area.

The oranges and lemons provide bright splashes of color against the green and sea blue background.

Quite a few gardens are left to their own devices.

In between, beautiful old but often abandoned villas bear witness to the prosperity that the area's citrus fruits once brought.

Today, the fruit growers of Gargano need a second job to make ends meet.

The around forty producers in a consortium fight all the more passionately in their free time for the resurgence of the area.

You can be proud that she supports the Slow Food movement, which tries to protect endangered food.

They also received the EU's seal of origin and quality "PGI" (for protected geographical indications), which requires at least one stage of production to be carried out in the area.

Today Italy is only the eleventh largest exporter

The mild climate, the proximity of the sea and plentiful sources of fresh water favor the cultivation.

The goods reach the customers in direct sales, supported by the Internet, and with distribution through natural and organic shops.

The producers cannot rely on mass and low prices here, instead they emphasize the quality and originality of their fruit.

Fruit grower Laidò quickly gets enthusiastic.

There is, for example, the "Femminello del Gargano" variety, which is considered the oldest lemon in Italy because it was first mentioned in documents at the beginning of the 15th century.

Or the orange "Bionda del Gargano" with a slightly lighter skin, the "jewel of our region", according to Laidò, because it is unadulterated, never crossed or genetically modified.

Because some of the trees are 200 years old, the oranges also contain a lot of vitamin C, he says.

Environmentally friendly processes are given a high priority, but this is a challenge given the recent parasite infestation.

As a result, some fruit growers had to resort to chemical aids as an exception.