The market scale reaches billions and the number of consumers exceeds 20 million


  the young people in the "Hanfu Jianghu"

On August 10, in the Children's Library of Rugao City, Jiangsu Province, a teacher was teaching children to learn Hanfu etiquette.

  Photo by Xu Hui (People's Vision)

  In recent years, Hanfu has been favored by more and more Chinese young people.

In 2019, the transaction volume of Hanfu on Taobao platform alone exceeded 2 billion yuan.

The latest data shows that in the first half of this year, more than 20 million people bought Hanfu on Tmall.

This shows that Hanfu has changed from a subculture "small circle" in the past to a "big business" with tens of millions of consumers and billions of output value.

"Hanfu Economy" has a well-deserved reputation.

  Today, the entire Hanfu circle has formed a relatively complete industrial chain, and a number of well-known brands in the circle have been born.

Youth is a major feature of the "Hanfu economy".

Our reporter interviewed Hanfu fans and brand merchants and told the stories of the young people behind the emerging consumption phenomenon "Hanfu fever".

  Fellow!

Feel the charm from tradition

  "Since two years ago, I have bought a set of Hanfu almost every month." Hanfu lover Cui Wan opened her wardrobe, which was filled with all kinds of Hanfu: full-chested skirt and Ming-made horse-face skirt. , Song-made swirl skirts, large collar sleeves...the styles are dazzling, very gorgeous.

Cui Wan took out a full-chested skirt and introduced to reporters that this set of Hanfu called "Drunk Red Makeup" was her first set of Hanfu in her "entering the pit". Since she was "entering the pit", she has spent an average of 1,000 per month on Hanfu. To 2,000 yuan.

"I started with Qixiong and loyal to the Ming system." Cui Wan said, "I bought about 10 pieces of the horse dress made in the Ming Dynasty."

  There are more and more young people like Cui Wan who love Hanfu.

A few days ago, the "Never Ending Hanfu Festival" was launched in Xiuwu County, Jiaozuo City, Henan Province. Thousands of Hanfu fans gathered from all over and became a beautiful landscape.

"In the past, wearing Hanfu on the streets attracted a lot of strange eyes. Some passersby even asked me if I was wearing Hanbok." Zhang Lihua, an amateur model of Hanfu, told reporters that she has been fond of Hanfu for five years, and now she has become an amateur. Grasses".

  "In the beginning, I just posted photos of myself wearing Hanfu on public platforms such as Weibo. Later I gradually gained a bit of fan base, and I would take photos of commercial models from some studios in my spare time to make appointments." Zhang Lihua said that she is the first. The second filming was in Yuyuantan Park in Beijing, and many passersby watched her, very embarrassed.

"Now it is common to shoot in public with the eyes of the crowd, and I have a lot of thick skin." Zhang Lihua said with a smile.

  In the Hanfu circle, in addition to ordinary fans and "grass planters", there are also many "identified" fans-Hanfu "Zhuangniang", "Hand Zuoniang", etc. Kitten is one of them.

"I often make makeup for some Hanfu fans and models. In the past two years, there have been more people in need of this." Mao said that many Hanfu fans will ask her for makeup and photography during festivals and Hanfu events. The teacher makes an appointment, and her task is to dress these girls beautifully.

"I usually study historical materials and try to restore ancient makeup, including all kinds of hand-made accessories that I have made are also referenced by cultural relics." Cat said, "Being a'makeup lady' and'handmade lady' is not easy. "

  From the perspective of Tmall's overseas situation, Hanfu, as a new domestic product, has not only become a new fashion for young people, but this trend is also emerging overseas.

From May to July this year, the overseas sales of Hanfu on Tmall’s overseas platforms increased by over 20% year-on-year.

Liu Chuxin, who is studying in France, told reporters that she likes Chinese traditional culture very much, and it is common to wear Hanfu when she goes to school in France.

"The students are very curious about Hanfu. Under my introduction, more and more students also like Hanfu. Some students even asked me to purchase Hanfu from China." Liu Chuxin said, "Wearing Hanfu also inherits Chinese traditional culture. One way, as Chinese sons and daughters, we do our part!"

  "The Book of Songs" says: "Why is there no clothes? The same robe with the son." "Tongpao" is exactly what Hanfu fans call each other.

With the increase in the number of "comrades", Hanfu has become a branch that cannot be ignored in the subculture circle.

Xiao Feng, head of Tmall's women's Hanfu industry, introduced to reporters that from 2017 to 2019, the Hanfu category on Taobao and Tmall has grown exponentially, and sales have increased by 6 times in three years. The current Hanfu's main brands, product supply, and innovative development And consumption happens on Taobao Tmall platform.

"The Hanfu market is affected by the epidemic this year, but it will continue its explosive growth momentum," Xiao Feng said. "We expect that Hanfu has more than 400 million potential users, and there is a lot of room for development in the future."

  Start a business!

Create a "Hanfu Economy" brand

  Behind the upsurge of the "Hanfu economy", in addition to the support of millions of consumers, it is also inseparable from the efforts of a group of dream and creative "post-90s" Hanfu brand founders.

  According to Taobao data, in 2019, more than 2,000 Taobao stores have incubated Taobao brands with more than 10 million adult income and brand attributes.

The road from Taobao store to "Tao brand" is getting shorter and shorter. Especially in the field of Hanfu, well-known Tao brands such as Hanshang Hualian, Hua Chaoji and Shisan Yu have emerged.

Hanfu has formed a market with a scale of more than 2 billion yuan, and it has maintained a rapid growth of nearly 150%.

  Xiao Ruo, the founder of Taobao Hanfu brand Hanshang Hualian, has been in contact with Hanfu as early as 12 years ago. As the first batch of Hanfu merchants in China, she can be said to have witnessed the growth of this "2 billion Jianghu".

Xiao Ruo recalled that when she first came into contact with Hanfu in 2007, she could hardly find a place to buy Hanfu, but now she searches for Hanfu on Taobao, regardless of style or color.

  Huang Qiaoen, the founder of Yuanshan Qiao, opened a Taobao Hanfu store when he was still in college.

She specializes in clothing design and successively launched improved Hanfu and Guofeng cheongsam, which aroused consumers' attention to Guofeng and Hanfu.

In 2018, Huang Qiaoen established the Hanfu brand Yuanshan Qiao. In just one year, Yuanshan Qiao quickly accumulated a reputation in the Hanfu circle. He participated in the 2019 Taobao Maker Festival and became a brand with an annual turnover of over 10 million yuan. Amoy brand".

  Hanfu Brand Weaving Division is a young brand that officially launched Taobao in May this year.

In less than 4 months, the Weaving Division has repeatedly entered the top ten in the subdivision of Taobao Hanfu.

Lin Wei, the director of the Weaving Department, is a "post-95". In an interview with reporters, he introduced that the current items on the line of the Weaving Department are mainly horse skirts in Ming Hanfu.

"The reason for choosing it is that we believe that the horse-face skirt is most likely to be used as the'white T'jeans in daily clothing, so as to achieve the purpose of daily and versatile Hanfu." Lin Wei said, "We compare Hanfu to As durian, if you forcibly stuff a piece of durian to someone who never eats it, it is difficult for him to accept it, but if you throw him a piece of durian candy (horse noodle skirt), the acceptance of candy as a mass consumer product will become higher. It may be the first step for him to eat durian in the future."

  The rapid development of Hanfu merchants and brands is the epitome of the entrepreneurial wave of small and medium businesses on Taobao.

Many entrepreneurs are working in niche industries. In addition to Hanfu, there are hand-made, BJD, LOLITA, JK uniforms, etc., but they have become familiar brands for fans in their respective fields.

  The vigorous development of small and medium businesses on Taobao is closely related to the continuous innovation of the platform.

Xiao Feng introduced that since the beginning of this year, Taobao has successively launched a series of actions such as the "Galaxy Road Plan" and the Taobao Live Broadcasting "Ten Billion Support Plan". The goal is to help small and medium businesses make good use of platform resources, improve marketing capabilities and use efficiency, and achieve Grow faster.

Generations of young entrepreneurs are here to turn dreams into reality, turning their niche hobbies into a big business.

  Out of the circle!

Take advantage of the east wind of the digital age

  Not satisfied with "enclosure and spontaneous", the joint name of film and television drama has become an important driving force for Hanfu's "out of the circle".

At the end of 2018, the Hanfu, which was co-branded with the TV series "Knowing it or not, it should be green, fat, red and thin" had sales of nearly one million yuan in just one month, becoming a hit.

The co-branded version of Taobao shop "Liu Yan Xi Ling" and "Chen Qing Ling" has been the top five consumers' favorite Hanfu for more than 3 months. The exclusive customized suits of Wei Wuxian in the play have sold in one month Increased more than three times.

The large-sleeved Confucian skirt jointly launched by "Hua Chao Ji" and "Chang'an Twelve Hours" has skyrocketed 12 times in sales in a few months.

  Tmall joined forces with 7 popular IPs including the TV series "Daming Fenghua" to jointly develop characteristic IP products with the Hanfu brand, forming a closed marketing loop from watching the show to buying.

According to data released by Tmall, during the broadcast of "Da Ming Feng Hua", the number of Ming-made Hanfu transactions rose by more than 800% year-on-year, and the transaction value exceeded 500%.

This year, Alibaba will open up the global ecology of Hanfu and further promote the reconstruction of the Hanfu brand.

  Xiao Feng introduced that one of the major measures to help Hanfu "out of the circle" is to help Hanfu merchants to upgrade their brands, and through digital empowerment, help brands improve the efficiency of operating members and fans. For example, the head brand Hanshang Hualian, the current number of fans is already The number of members has reached 3.4 million and the number of members has exceeded 300,000. The number of members has increased by more than 14 times year-on-year. This part of consumers can be said to be the most valuable asset of the business.

At the same time, emerging brands on Taobao and Tmall are constantly emerging to enter the attention of consumers, and the market is eye-catching. For example, the number of fans of the Taobao store "Yilv" has increased from more than 10,000 to nearly 500,000 in a year, an increase of more than 40 times.

  Xiao Feng said that the "going global" of the Hanfu brand is also a major factor in the continued "heating" of the "Hanfu economy".

“In March this year, Tmall joined hands with Shanghai Fashion Week to create Yunshang Fashion Week. Four Tmall Hanfu brands gathered at Yunshang Fashion Week to show the new summer models for the first time.” Xiao Feng said, “Hanfu brand Hanshang Hualian also appeared in the New York Times. The large screen in the square has become a Chinese Hanfu brand standing on the world stage, showing the world a diverse, inclusive and vibrant cultural image that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with modern trends."

  Although Hanfu is no longer "niche", Xiao Feng believes that the field of Hanfu is still facing problems such as not being daily enough and not closely integrated with trend elements.

"The advocacy of traditional culture by the state and the media has a great impact on the Hanfu market, and will further promote the integration of Hanfu into daily life." Xiao Feng said, "Travel, company annual meetings, wedding banquets and other occasions have also become the main drivers for consumers to purchase Hanfu. One of the factors is that a large number of Tmall brands have tried to integrate Hanfu elements with trendy elements to make Hanfu elements more regular."

  Lin Wei believes that the current Hanfu is still facing the shortcomings of incompatibility and insufficient vitality in the restoration of the Hanfu market.

"As most people's eyes are attracted by costume dramas, antiquity games, cosplay, etc., it is easier for people to treat restored Hanfu as prop clothing." Lin Wei said, "The Weaving Division is more inclined to keep traditional forms and In the case of craftsmanship, combined with the current aesthetic design, while exporting traditional culture, it also allows more consumers to accept and wear this type of Hanfu."