China News Service, Taipei, February 22: Title: Kueh and cake meet in Taiwan: The rice is fragrant and steaming, and the meanings coincide.

　　China News Service reporter Yang Chengchen

　　Sanshui Hongguibo is an old rice stall that has been operating in Wanhua District, Taipei for nearly 70 years.

Every Chinese New Year, before dawn, the red turtle cakes, cabbage cakes, taro cakes, bowl cakes and sweet cakes are all sold out, mostly by fans who come from other counties and cities.

　　Starting at 4 a.m. every morning, Chen Xingui and Dong Minqing, who are over 80 years old, will move a four-corner steamer in the long and narrow East Sanshui Street market.

Adhering to the old method of hand-grinding rice to make cakes is the key to the shop being popular among diners all year round.

Speaking of the secret recipe, Chen Xinggui revealed to a reporter from China News Service that he needs to soak rice (one of the types of Taiwanese rice) the night before. After the rice grains have absorbed the water, grind it into rice milk, drain it, and quickly mix it with the highly sweet shredded radish. Mix well, and finally pour the rice cake into a wooden barrel and steam it.

　　By the time the foggy white steam carrying the aroma of rice comes out from under the wooden stove steamer, a long queue has already formed in the aisle in front of the shop, and the "ancient flavor" of the time-honored restaurant can be continued.

Located in Wanhua District, Taipei, Sanshui Hongguibo is an old rice stall that has been operating for nearly 70 years. Chen Xinggui and Dong Minqing, who are over 80 years old, grind rice by hand to cook rice cakes at 4 o'clock every morning.

Photo by China News Service reporter Yang Chengchen

　　Kueh is a traditional rice pastry from southern Fujian and the Hakka community. It is also called rice cake in the Hakka dialect.

In the old days in Taiwan, people would prepare sweet cakes, fat cakes, steamed buns, and cabbage cakes for the Spring Festival. This was because of the so-called "sweet cakes to mark the New Year, hair cakes to make money, steamed buns to wrap with gold, and vegetable cakes to fill with dim sum." auspicious meaning.

　　The most representative one is the red turtle cake. The bright red color and the turtle pattern on the appearance represent blessings, longevity and other meanings.

However, as modern people are wary of pigments, fewer and fewer people eat red turtle cakes. This pastry appears more often on sacrificial altars, but there are also children who "steal food" when their parents are not paying attention and are curious.

　　Menga, where the East Sanshui Street Market is located, is considered one of the birthplaces of Taipei City.

In the late Qing Dynasty, merchants gathered here and the area was prosperous. Lungshan Temple, not far away, is still one of the most popular temples in Taipei.

Taiwanese food culture writer Han Liangyi told reporters that old-fashioned rice shops in Taipei have become less and less common. They can be seen in the old city, firstly because of the support of old diners, and secondly because of the strong atmosphere of folk belief.

In February 2024, Menga, where the East Sanshui Street Market is located, was regarded as the birthplace of Taipei City.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, merchants gathered here and the prosperity was unprecedented.

Photo by China News Service reporter Yang Chengchen

　　From here to the north, Dihua Street, which is only half an hour's walk away, is the oldest north-south goods market in Taipei.

"Grandma's Shop" rice cake department store is another traditional rice cake shop in Taipei located in Yongle Market on Dihua Street.

When asked about the difference between "kueh" and "cake", boss Wu Lanying pointed out that from the appearance, the former has clear and distinct rice grains, while the latter is made by grinding rice into slurry, with a smoother surface and translucent color.

　　Han Liangyi added that in the northern part of mainland China, rice snacks are mostly called "cake". The older generation who moved to Taiwan from mainland China also call "kueh" "cake", but the younger generation in Taiwan mostly call them "cake".

"In my family, we are used to saying 'cake' when speaking Mandarin, and 'kueh' when speaking Hokkien to my grandmother."

　　She also gave an example. Caitou cake is also called carrot cake. The pronunciation of "caitou" in Hokkien is similar to "caitou". It is a must-have for many families during the New Year.

In the past, in military villages, ethnic groups from other provinces also had the tradition of eating cakes during the Chinese New Year, which was called "high every year."

"Same thing, different pronunciation, but the same meaning."

Wu Lanying, owner of the "Grandma's Shop" rice department store, said that the difference between "kueh" and "cake" can be seen from the appearance. The former has clear and distinct rice grains, while the latter is made from rice ground into slurry. More smooth.

Photo by China News Service reporter Yang Chengchen

　　Kway Tsai Street, which intersects with the second section of Dihua Street, tells the story of Taipei’s past “taste-seeking”.

It is close to the Tamsui River and has flat terrain. It has been rich in rice since the late Qing Dynasty, and local residents have developed various rice products.

Due to the convenient location and market demand, manufacturers gathered in the alleys, and later formed an area specializing in rice products in Taipei, named Kway Tsai Street.

Nowadays, it is difficult to find traditional shops in the old streets, and they are replaced by modern restaurants selling rice dishes.

　　With the theme of "rice", Lam Ching Cake Shop provides homemade traditional carrot cakes and rice cakes, as well as trendy products such as gluten-free rice cakes, rice milk, and non-alcoholic rice cocktails.

When Citywalk, a new way of travel, emerged in Taipei, Kueh Chai Street became a "check-in point" for many "delicious eaters". They often brought a souvenir from Modern Kueh Hang when they left. .

Nowadays, it is difficult to find traditional shops in Kway Chai Street, and they are replaced by modern restaurants selling rice dishes.

Photo by China News Service reporter Yang Chengchen

　　Han Liangyi said that without exception, traditional rice dishes were brought by ancestors from the mainland, but they were also developed and improved according to local conditions.

Whether it is an old stall or a new one, Taiwanese stores are trying their best to try new elements and products.

　　Taro cake is the original variety of Chen Xinggui and Dong Minqing.

Taiwanese taro grows slowly in winter and encounters relatively little water, giving it a dense texture.

The taro cake was well received as soon as it was launched, and is now the "favorite of mothers-in-law" in Wanhua District.

Chen Xingui said that by welcoming guests with the most traditional delicacies, guests will not only have sweet memories but may also be full of surprises.

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