Haute couture, a growing sector despite many uncertainties

After Fashion Week last week, this Monday, January 22, the haute couture shows in Paris begin.

The luxury market is worth several billion dollars and continues to grow despite economic and geopolitical uncertainties.

And this, thanks to the enthusiasm of the richest customers on the planet, who are no longer only American or European, but also Asian, Indian, or South American.

Such a costly sector for the planet.

Balmain show during Fashion Week in Paris, January 20, 2024. AFP - ALAIN JOCARD

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If the big houses are reluctant to give their figures, an American

Global Haute Couture Market

study estimated the luxury clothing market at $11.5 billion in 2022. After the rebound in the aftermath of Covid-19, orders increased stabilized.

But uncertainties persist, notes Dominique Muret, luxury specialist at Fashion Network. “ 

Now, we have entered a market in which nothing is linear anymore.

Every time, there is something unexpected.

Houses are forced to manage in a permanent emergency

,” she explains to

Agnieszka Kumor

, from the Economy department.

To secure their supply chains, luxury groups do not hesitate to buy out their suppliers.

“ 

It’s all the little hands, all the artisans, all the historic workshops that have this know-how.

There are several thousand

people

who work directly or indirectly for haute couture

,” continues Dominique Muret, luxury specialist at Fashion Network.

The other trend, for several years, has seen small brands parade alongside the big ones, “small

houses that want to focus on very high quality, handmade, made-to-measure models

 ”.

It is thanks to these young shoots and their new clientele that the haute couture market could continue to grow over the next five years.

Read alsoInflation: the luxury industry sees its sales in slight decline

Haute couture, a not very ecological sector

The fashion sector is changing, even if there is still a long way to go.

240,000 tonnes more carbon released into the atmosphere.

This is the equivalent of the emissions of more than 50,000 cars.



The game of comparisons is not kind to haute couture and fashion weeks.

New York, Milan, London, Paris... They alone emit more CO2 into the atmosphere than the Central African Republic in one year.

The main reason for this is transport: 70,000 people are expected in Paris to attend the haute couture shows.

This is a very international audience, who come by plane, don't stay very long and leave by air.

This is not very chic for a sector otherwise presented as the temple of the ephemeral and the disposable.

More than 4 million tonnes of clothing are thrown away in Europe alone each year.



However, there is a beginning of awareness; a fashion pact has been signed by several major luxury groups to mitigate their environmental impact.

Some fashion shows include a virtual component so as not to have to travel, and some figures from the fashion world are also getting involved.

As the great designer Vivienne Westwood said: “

Buy less, choose wisely, and make it last

”.


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