A year ago, London Fashion Week, which was set to make a comeback after the Covid years, was overshadowed by the death of Queen Elizabeth II on September 8, followed by ten days of national mourning. This year, more than 80 designers are scheduled to present their Spring/Summer 2024 collection. There must be about fifty parades and many presentations.

"We're going to have five exciting days, full of creativity," enthuses Caroline Rush, director of the British Fashion Council (BFC), the organizer of this event.

As an introduction to this fashion week, Vogue magazine rolled out the red carpet Thursday night to many British stars for a gala evening, celebrating the culture of the country, whether dance, theater or pop music, from Shakespeare to rapper Stormzy. Models Cara Delevingne, Kate Moss walked the runway.

But London is rather struggling on the fashion planet. The pandemic, inflation, which remains the highest in the G7 (6.8% in July) and also Brexit do not help.

Paris fashion week remains the most prestigious, ahead of Milan and New York. The British capital lacks big names. As a symbol of this loss of influence: the very British Victoria Beckham presents since last year her collection in Paris.

The government announced on Wednesday a fund of 2 million pounds sterling (2.3 million euros) to support young creators. This support will go to BFC's NewGen program.

For thirty years, this initiative has supported the best young fashion designers and aims to launch the high-end global brands of tomorrow. Several big names in fashion have benefited from this program, including Alexander McQueen, who died in 2010.

Rebel

The Design Museum in London is presenting an exhibition from Saturday celebrating these young NewGen talents, who have brought so much energy to fashion. "Rebel: 30 years of London fashion" shows a hundred looks, some of which have gone down in pop culture history.

Canadian model Winnie Harlow at "Vogue World: London", in London, on the eve of fashion week on September 14, 2023 © HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP

This year, about twenty creators benefit from the NewGen program. Most have just recently graduated from school, but have already managed to dress some of the biggest stars of the moment. Creations by Ukrainian singer Masha Popova were worn by singer Dua Lipa. Actress Zendaya was seduced by Di Petsa.

But Burberry, a London house founded in 1856, remains the most anticipated event. The parade will take place on Monday afternoon. This will be only the second collection of English creative director Daniel Lee, after the one in February. This former Bottega Veneta replaced Riccardo Tisci a year ago. Sales have soared in China for the brand with such recognizable checks.

On the last day, Tuesday, Ukrainian designers will present their collection, London hosting once again, due to the war, the Ukrainian fashion week.

The BFC is also trying to make London an increasingly inclusive venue for fashion shows. The goal is to "move towards fair and fair representation" in fashion, according to the BFC.

Another fashion event not to be missed in London: the exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion manifesto" opens Saturday at the Victoria and Albert museum. Her sixty-year career is traced, with some of her greatest creations that revolutionized women's wardrobes.

© 2023 AFP