Bracelets, necklaces, cufflinks and other leather goods, natural pearls are everywhere in the small shop that belongs to the Mattar family, one of the oldest involved in this trade in Bahrain.

Proud to belong to the "first generation of women in 200 years of family activity, Faten Mattar leads the staff and advises customers, who sometimes ask for models seen on Instagram. 22 years ago, his father opened this jewelry store to "rekindle" a neglected tradition.

"One of our goals today is to make pearls more attractive to everyone," while they often remain associated with the luxury of yesteryear, says Faten Mattar. "We have small everyday jewels and leather collections for the youngest and even for men," she observes.

Before the discovery of oil in the 1930s, most Arab Gulf countries lived mainly from pearl fishing. Aboard dhows, wooden Arabian sailboats, divers set off for months, to find from the bottom of the sea this jewel prized by the royal families of the region as well as the luxury industry in Europe, like Cartier.

A brooch set with natural pearls and gold displayed at the House of Pearls store, February 2, 2023 in Manama © Mazen Mahdi / AFP

In the 1930s, the market for natural pearls declined due to the economic crisis in Europe and competition from cultured pearls in Japan, which were cheaper and easier to produce.

"Fascinating and unique"

Like its neighbors, Bahrain has since developed thanks to hydrocarbons, but the kingdom prides itself on being the only country to have banned the cultivation of artificial pearls.

"For us, it's a challenge because we can't mass produce," Mattar said. But for customers, mainly from the Gulf, "that's what makes these pearls more fascinating and unique," she says, presenting a brooch encrusted with small similar pearls and yet all "unique".

A necklace of baroque natural pearls, emerald drops and diamond chopsticks on display at the House of Pearls boutique on February 2, 2023 in Manama © Mazen Mahdi / AFP

"Every woman or man who owns or receives a jewel containing natural pearls knows that no one has the same," she insists, adding that forming a harmonious necklace can therefore take "four to five years, or even more" for the most imposing.

Bahrain is home to a historic site consisting of a small port, an ancient souk and residences of ancient trading families, which Unesco has inscribed on its World Heritage List as the "last complete example of the cultural tradition of pearl".

A bracelet made of natural pearls at the House of Pearls boutique on February 2, 2023 in Manama © Mazen Mahdi / AFP

Manama not only intends to preserve the memory of its pearl tradition but also wants to make it a trademark. In the middle of the skyscrapers of the capital, the Danat Center is one of the few laboratories in the world specialized in pearl analysis.

Climate change

In a room equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, young gemologists in white coats scrutinize pearls with the naked eye or microscope.

One of them even passes a radiology exam under the gaze of Fatema Almahmood.

Fatema Almahmood, a graduate in physics and gemology, examines pearls by micro-tomography at the Danat center, on March 16, 2023 in Manama © Mazen Mahdi / AFP

The purpose of the examination: to find "natural growth lines" to determine the authenticity of the object, explains the young woman, graduated in physics and gemology, pointing to irregular circles on the image of the pearl projected on a screen.

This specialist became passionate about pearls by realizing that new technologies made them "a science in constant evolution".

Created in 2017, Danat receives pearls from wealthy traders or individuals wishing to have them evaluated. "You can't imagine how many people are shocked to learn that they have inherited cultured pearls," said Noora Jamsheer, CEO of the public institute.

Fatema Almahmood, a graduate in physics and gemology, during an interview with AFP at the Danat Center, on March 16, 2023 in Manama © Mazen Mahdi / AFP

Danat experts are also conducting "ongoing field research" to determine the impact of climate change "on pearls, their number, the quality of oysters," Jamsheer said. She is particularly concerned about "the temperature and quality of the water".

© 2023 AFP