Amaya Garcia
Updated Saturday, March 2, 2024-01:51
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No one can take Roberto Martínez Foronda off the
market
.
The Madrid chef has turned
Tripea
into one of the must-visit tables in the capital.
"We are at a more gastronomic level than ever, both in the dining room and in the kitchen," he says confidently.
They recently launched a menu (60 euros), with a different aesthetic, with dishes where the play of flavors and textures turn each bite into a journey of flavors.
"The top dish is cheek stewed and smoked in bay leaf... There are acidic, sweet, salty, citrus, vinegar flavors... It's the bomb," he says excitedly.
Two years ago, Tripea
lost the Bib Gourmand
of the Michelin Guide, a category that recognizes establishments with the best quality-price ratio.
In essence, the gastronomic proposal since it opened in 2017 has been a meeting between Peru and Southeast Asia with a Spanish base.
"At the time, leaving the Michelin environment affected me emotionally; especially because I didn't know the reasons. It was during the time of the pandemic, very complicated times, and I received the news like when you get a big slap in the face and you think: 'What I could do to do has not been that big of a deal.'"
Assuming the setback, his attitude was to continue in the same line and the public not only did not turn their backs on him but in this time they have done nothing but show their support.
"When we open reservations, nights and
weekends of the month fill up in 10 minutes
. "
Diners are added to the food services more gradually, but not a chair is usually left empty.
"We didn't want to go into the process of asking for a credit card, but we offer a reservation with advance payment that guarantees you a table."
The idea of moving to a location at street level has crossed his mind more than once, but he always takes stock and he likes the market too much.
He doesn't give much information, but Tripea will soon have a
brother
in another capital market.
With another name and a more battle and less gastronomic concept.
"We have chosen to grow but in markets. If one day a store appears and compensates us, we will see it. For now we are very good here."
'Carretillero' tuna ceviche in acevichado gazpachuelo.
Bad student when he was young, he quickly found his place in the kitchen.
After training at the Majadahonda Hospitality School, he worked in the kitchens of Dassa Bassa, the restaurant of the late Darío Barrio, and Andrés Madrigal (Alboroque, Casa América).
He also cut his teeth at
El Celler de Can Roca
, where he achieved the
stage
by calling and shouting.
And from Gerona he flew to Peru, where he stayed for a year and where he found inspiration for what he wanted to create.
Returning to Madrid, he worked under Luis Arévalo, first at Nikkei 225 and then at Kena, and was head chef at Nakeima.
In his head it was already clear that he would end up setting up something on his behalf.
Since it opened in 2017, its kitchen has attracted attention inside and outside the market, where it lives surrounded by vegetable and fruit stalls, delicatessens, cheese shops and a large group of restaurants and bars that have turned the place into a
meeting point for
foodies
.
"Currently we have capacity for 20-24 diners per service" with a high table and a standard table for four people.
One of the points that has been enhanced in recent months has been the attention in the room.
"Bea is doing wonderfully. She was a cook at Tripea and was previously at Ugo Chan."
She is in charge of singing and explaining the menu, to which she has added level dishes, such as the carretillero tuna ceviche in acevichado gazpachuelo, the homemade steamed bao stuffed with lomo saltado and the siumai stuffed with pancetta and jowl.
Untouchable are the
wok mussels, the
house
hit
that never leaves the menu.
"I have to say that tuna is gaining a lot of ground on mussels," jokes the chef.
Those off the menu are always worth listening to because there are usually pleasant and exciting surprises.
"We usually have six or seven proposals."
One of the oysters offered off the menu.
The liquid part gains weight in the experience.
"We have improved the variety and selection of wines."
They bet on small producers and have some natural wines.
"In addition, we have expanded the range of champagnes and sparkling wines."
It is clear that it is the most gastronomic market stall of the moment.
Address:
Post 44. Vallehermoso Market (Vallehermoso, 36).
Reservations: tripea.es