AMAYA GARCIA

Updated Thursday, February 29, 2024-00:10

It was a matter of time before the kebab or shawarma (the first term comes from Persian and the second from Arabic, but they are the same thing) became fashionable in Madrid and, judging by the openings in recent weeks, it seems that this moment has come.

And in style.

We have tried - and enjoyed - the shawarmas from three new places and we can only say compliments about all of them.

It was time for the Kebab House, a legendary establishment on Menéndez Valdés Street that opened in 1978, to have some level of competition.

Eating with your hands has never been so appealing...

Aviv Mizrahi, chef at De Pita Madre, cuts the piece of lamb.

From Pita Madre

In this space in the Chueca neighborhood they embroider this typical snack from countries like Israel, Lebanon or Turkey.

And when we say bordan we are not exaggerating anything.

Aviv Mizrahi and Tami Elimelech-Mizrahi, owners of Barganzo - which has moved to the adjacent premises with its famous hummus - embarked a month ago on the adventure of

dignifying the shawarma

with meat and some vegetables - fried eggplant, essential;

Don't ask for lettuce, of course, because they don't have top quality, spongy and delicious pita bread - you can eat it alone and finish it in a minute without blinking - and homemade sauces with different degrees of spiciness (tahini, amba, spicy ...).

"We choose the most exclusive parts of the meat, we have beef with a lot of lamb fat, and then we have another that is just lamb," she explains, looking at the rotating pieces stuck on the skewers while Aviv cuts them.

It's Monday, midday service and there is a line to pick up orders;

They are shipping about 200

sandwiches

a day .

"I think we are the only ones in Spain that sell lamb shawarmas. It is much more expensive and that is why it is not used," adds Tami.

The difference is noticeable at the first bite.

"Everything is homemade and that is appreciated."

Aviv assembles each kebab with care in front of the customers, making each piece unique.

The amount of meat is more copious than usual.

"It usually weighs 140-150 grams, twice as much as a normal shawarma

. "

The prices are in line, of course, with the quality.

"When you buy sushi you have it for 10 or 15 euros in the supermarket, but you also find it for 60 or 70 euros. There is a big difference between one and the other," says Tami, who defends her "Michelin star shawarma."

From 13 euros you can have a feast sitting at one of its long tables.

Address

: Colmenares, 13.

Fox

In this place opened a few months ago in the Bernabéu area, they prepare an artisanal and gourmet shawarma, where the quality of the raw material makes the difference.

They work with suppliers such as Jafisa and Discarlux, and make their kebabs with fresh products cut and prepared daily.

The secret of their success lies in the fact that

they marinate the meat for 24-48 hours with the house recipe

, and every day the skewers are prepared with the pieces, guaranteeing maximum freshness.

You can choose between beef, chicken, falafel and the classic mixed.

To accompany the classic Middle Eastern snack, some tempting homemade hummus, whether chickpea or pesto, or their falafel.

The price of their meat

sandwiches

is around 8-9 euros.

They have opened the first location at General Perón, 16, where they have

take away

,

delivery

and a small bar to have them right there.

They are already finalizing their second space in the Salamanca neighborhood, on Cartagena Street, 4.

Jekes Kebabs

A few meters from the previous space is this tiny place, which has filled social networks with images of its long lines.

"There are days when we sell out at 10 p.m.," explains one of the managers.

His slogan makes it clear where he's going:

Kebabs, but good

.

A few days ago we told the story of its creator Ignacio Jarava and his three partners.

The first objective they set was to banish clichés surrounding the kebab: "It is associated with poor quality, unhygienic spaces and moments of hangover."

Here the snack had

a long journey of testing

until they found the formula.

They marinate the meat for 24 hours and prick it every day in an artisanal way.

They offer chicken or beef, as well as two breads, one burrito type and the other muffin type.

Prices start at 6.50 for chicken;

6.90 for the mixed one and 7.90 for the beef.

Address

: Edgar Neville, 39.