We have followed, and collected in these pages, a recent streak of impressive novelties in the Madrid gastronomic panorama: Per Se Bistró, Kabuki Madrid, OSA... But we also practice from time to time in this section the recovery of notable restaurants, already veterans, but which have disappeared for that same reason from the reviews in the media, despite maintaining their level. We always suspect that this absence often means that the younger generations of fans are unaware of these houses. And here, in a discreet place with a very classic and elegant atmosphere in the Salamanca district, we have one of those good houses that deserve to be remembered and visited. The name is simply that of his address: Maldonado 14.
It opened in 2010, but its style and school go back much further: it had just closed what was then one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid, Las Cuatro Estaciones, by Miguel Arias, and its chef and its dining room manager, Francisco Vicente and Julián Barbolla, decided to partner to continue their work in a new place. It is, therefore, one of those Madrid houses -as we recently highlighted of Chifa, heiress of Sudestada- whose professionals prolong the style and service of their establishments of origin.
The Four Seasons, in a quiet enclave of Chamberí, was one of the favorite places of King Juan Carlos, who was not yet Emeritus at the time. The cuisine was classic, based on Spanish and French traditions, and over time it remains very similar at Maldonado 14. They may be reproached for not having evolved in this era of fusion and creative touches, but the classicism of their dishes also attracts many followers, especially if they continue to be – as they are – very finely executed with excellent raw materials.
An initial appetizer: salad with a touch of smoked salmon. And although the heat has passed, the hearty and very fresh salmorejo of this house, with Iberian ham and quail egg to give it a final touch, is a starter that always appeals: a specialty. On a warmer note, another classic is bluefin tuna in tataki – passed through a very hot pan, you know – served with fresh pasta and a soy sauce. Madrid-style tripe, which has always been famous, is now also offered in half portions, and a few customers appreciate it as a starter.
We continued the other day with two main courses typical of this house, and both very successful in terms of point and flavour: a partridge in salmis – that is, in its classic French sauce made with its own juices – and a rich garnish of burrata and tomato and basil carpaccio, and also the justly famous beef tenderloin a la brooch, very undercooked, at the same time tender and flavorful, with baked potatoes and a Bercy sauce, again made with its juices and again referring to the French traditions that we liked so much and that we have largely forgotten today.
For next time, there will be the stewed oxtail, the hot foie gras with grapes and pedro ximénez or the hake cocochas with clams in the old way, which perpetuate the classics of that house on Ibáñez de Ibero street.
And speaking of classics, you can't leave out the exquisite thin apple pie, which should be ordered at the beginning of the meal because it requires a 20-minute preparation. And what can I tell them? You finish one as if you were on a boulevard in Paris a few years ago.
By the way: in these somewhat more difficult times for everyone, the possibility of booking online and getting a 20% discount is not negligible.
The wine list is perhaps reflecting these tighter times: the first two we chose were not available at the winery. But the offer is still worthy, no doubt.
Find out more about Maldonado 14
- Maldonado, 14
- 91 435 50 45
- Opening hours: Closed Sundays
- Official Website: https://maldonado14.com
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