I learned all this from Sean Sherman, whom I interviewed via Zoom. Sherman, 49, belongs to the Lakota community and grew up on the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota. He had already worked his way up to head chef in ordinary restaurants in the USA when he returned to his culinary roots. He did not want to resign himself to the fact that the cuisine of his ancestors and other indigenous groups of North America was lost.
Because all was not lost, as Sherman told me. "We still had a few turnips that grew wild in the plains where we lived. There were a few berries that we often harvested and used to make traditional sauces. And we fed on quails, grouse, pheasants, ducks, geese."
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Sean Sherman with Beth Dooley
The Sioux Boss
Translation: Sabine Franke
Publisher: Kanon
Number of pages: 240
Translation: Sabine Franke
Publisher: Kanon
Number of pages: 240
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In addition, Sherman researched what his ancestors and other early Americans ate. In our conversation, he told me, "Cookbooks, magazines, academic publications—I started reading anything that had anything about American Native American cuisine. I talked to tribal elders and explored different regions."
Indigenous cooking – this is the concept Sherman runs the restaurant Owamni in Minneapolis, which was named the best new restaurant in the United States by the James Beard Foundation last year. Half duck with pumpkin puree, smoked ribeye steak from bison or wild three-pudding with sunflower butter are on the menu. And he has written a cookbook, which has just been published in German under the title »Der Sioux-Chef«. There you will learn how to prepare a pumpkin soup with apple and cranberry sauce, for example. Or bison ribs.
It's not only a beautifully made cookbook, but also, in my opinion, a wake-up call to focus more on traditional food. Like people in North America, the inhabitants of Germany are consuming more and more industrially produced products or dishes that are so strongly composed of fat, sugar, salt and ingredients that they can make you sick. Packet soups, fast-food burgers, cakes and bread from factories, microwave ready meals, breakfast cereals, canned stews, squeezed fish or chicken nuggets, sodas, energy drinks – these are things that are no longer real food. And our grandparents probably wouldn't have recognized them as such.
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Jörg Blech
Health Master Plan
A SPIEGEL book: What body and mind need to stay young and fit for a long time
Publisher: Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt
Number of pages: 320
A SPIEGEL book: What body and mind need to stay young and fit for a long time
Publisher: Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt
Number of pages: 320
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In the new SPIEGEL book "Master Plan Health", I took the emergence of this "Frankenstein food" as an opportunity to remind us of the value of original food. Refined starches, sugars and ultra-processed products should be avoided. Fruits and vegetables, lean meat, fish and poultry are recommended (unless you are vegetarian or vegan). And of course, it is important to consider the beneficial bacteria in our intestines and provide them with fiber. We should mainly eat plants, prepare them ourselves and generally not eat too much.
This brings us full circle to Sioux chef Sherman: ingredients that were once introduced to North America (and are now industrially produced) – he has also eliminated them from his kitchen.
Yours sincerely,
Jörg Blech
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