CUMBRE VIEJA Acerina, the one dislodged by the volcano who works as Pedro Sánchez's driver on La Palma
GETAWAY The most beautiful towns in Segovia
"La Palma offers you so much attraction in
700 square kilometers
that you can come for a week, not do the Route of the Volcanoes or visit the Caldera de Taburiente and still have so much to see that the trip will be worth it." This is
Julio Marante
, president of the La Palma Association of Tourist Guides, who uses two of the most emblematic places of the Isla Bonita to give future visitors an idea of the potential of this
"miniature continent
". Because although now it seems impossible to separate it from the Cumbre Vieja volcano, the truth is that in most of the island
its presence is not felt beyond the ashes
.
But that image is not the one that reaches the Peninsula and abroad, which means that the areas that are not affected by the volcano are practically empty when they should be enjoying their high season in terms of tourism.
We go over some of those must-see sites.
Try Juana's Thankful Potatoes
In the heart
of Bosque de los Tilos
, for many the most beautiful place in the Canary Islands,
Juana
is the queen.
Of the birds that rush to eat from his hand every time he leaves the
Casa Demetrio
bar
(Bosque de los Tilos, San Andrés y Sauces, s / n) and of the visitors who come to taste his
grateful potatoes
Accompanied by a quarter of wine or a beer, either Dorada or Tropical, which both have. Originally from Tenerife, she moved to La Palma for love and there she would end up finding the deserved recognition for her star dish. "One day I put some wrinkled potatoes on top with a little mojo and I said to myself 'how dry is this'. But later I put a white cheese with the red mojo and coriander and it was very tasty. It happened to open the potato and put the melted cheese in. Then
I looked at it, I thought I had to give it a name and I said: 'this potato is grateful'.
And that's how it stayed, "he clarifies. It is likely that whoever goes to this restaurant located in a Unesco Biosphere Reserve since 2002, the scene of series such as
The Witcher
Thanks to the beauty of places like its waterfall, I ended up adding her famous goat meat to the tasting and listened to
Carmen
questioning her sister about whether she came to this corner of the archipelago for the mojo palmero or the dog chorizo.
Eat moray eel and shrimp at Casa Goyo
In this restaurant it is difficult to choose two dishes, even if it is to title a heading. Because at
Casa Goyo
(C / Lodero 120, Villa de Mazo) fish is religion. Just five minutes from the
airport
, its origin is closely linked to it, since it was its construction that led to the creation of a place to provide food to workers in 1966. Little by little, word of mouth It forced the owners to request the pertinent permits to expand it, which occurred with the construction of two palm huts. In the long run, its booths would end up contributing a unique idiosyncrasy to the place: although it has a terrace and normal dining rooms, it is worth eating in its small rooms, where the client feels as if they were in a private room.
Limpets, octopus salpicón, tollos
and
grilled cheese
are other of its star dishes, without forgetting its desserts, where pineapple cream,
gofio
mousse
and its popular
house coffee dessert stand out
.
Visit Puros Artesanos Julio
To those who visit
Puros Artesanos Julio
(C / Cabaiguán, 14. Breña Alta) the cigar maker
José Julio Cabrera
talks about how tobacco is dried, how it is grown, how it is made "and what it takes." This guardian of the essences of the pure palm tree, lover of decoration (the rooms maintain the aroma of the small workshops called chinchales) and of telling the story of this
premium
product
. "For us, aging is key," he says. "Our
legs
rest for five or six years, because
the best ingredient in our cigars is time
. It is very important that we pack it and leave it for as long as necessary. This is how a company like this can get ahead ", he says. Tradition took its first steps in this family (there are about six dedicated to it on the island) in 1950. Now, his future objective is to be able to organize visits to his plantation, located in "the Cuatro Caminos area, pulling for relief." While they prepare it, they proudly display their status as a
cultural treasure for the island
, capable of keeping alive a historical practice thanks to a culture of going and back with
Cuba
and the Breña Alta climate, bathed by the trade winds. Of course, do not store your cigars in the fridge as is sometimes recommended. The best place is inside
a cedar cabinet
.
Drink Aldea Rum in your distillery
El
Ron Aldea
(Camino el Melonar, 19. Charco Azul) was founded in 1936 by
Manuel Quevedo Alemán
(1872-1968) in the Aldea de San Nicolás (Gran Canaria).
It was not the best year: the Civil War made the
100,000 bottles
prepared for export stay (and drink) on the island.
But the Quevedos were not a family to back down from adversity.
For this reason, in 1969, when sugarcane cultivation was not profitable in Gran Canaria, they moved to San Andrés y Sauces, in La Palma.
There it remains, handled by the fourth generation, the
alembic
that Don Manuel found in a scrap metal in 1893,
unique in the world
.
The thousands of bottles that are made each year of this rum from
agricultural
(or French) style made only with guarapo, which although it accounts for only 5% of world sales, attracts more and more people, due to its flavor and its reputation for
not giving a hangover
.
The visitor can visit its museum, its facilities and taste before buying the different varieties: Maestro, Familia, Single Cane, Aboriginal Caramel Extreme, Ron Miel ...
Buy in La Recova
A
semi-cured goat cheese from Arquemazo
, a Vega Norte red wine, a couple of peppers to make mojo or some almonds (or
rapamientos
, if you have a grateful palate for the sweet). Whoever wants to buy the best products on the island cannot
miss La Recova
, the centenary municipal market of Santa Cruz de la Palma. Built on the site of the
old Hospital de Dolores
, presents a Renaissance style and an elegant and refined central skylight, which brings natural light to the entire premises.
Remodeled in 2005, the market has 13 fish markets, 12 stalls and several posters that tell its story.
And next to it, in what was the oratory of the Hospital de Dolores, as if it were a member of the body, stands the
Teatro Chico
, inaugurated in 1871 for circus shows and cockfights.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
Know more
The Palm
La Palma volcano
sightseeing
Canary Islands
Eruption of Cumbre ViejaSilencio negro in Puerto Naos, the ghost town under the volcano
La Palma volcanoThe Castro Gómez family's flight under the volcano: "Not even in our worst nightmares do we imagine anything like this"
Volcano on La Palma Nemesio, the patriarch of Canarian volcanologists: "The Earth here speaks to us in a different way, volcanoes are wealth"
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