In autumn, not only the forest comes alive, but also the
capital's restaurants
, so much so that lately there isn't a week without a new tavern, eating house or restaurant being unveiled.
After a year and a half of paralysis
(or almost), the sector
has awakened
and reactivated in such a way that one has the feeling that gastronomic openings occur in pairs.
Whether they are
inaugurations postponed
due to the pandemic that are now being resumed, completely
brand new
projects
or others that come from the hand of
international chefs
, the Madrid showcase is encouraged.
Here is the
first installment
of a list that we will expand shortly.
Russian ensadilla with caviar at Casa Mories.
Mories House
It does not reach the month of life, although the space has tradition.
Until the beginning of the pandemic, here - next to the Mercado de San Miguel - there was
La Forja de Sesnández
, a place of Castilian and Spanish cuisine, which in 1965 was opened by the family of the current owner, Enrique Menéndez Mories.
Today, it looks completely renovated and with an
updated traditional
offer
.
In it, market products reign,
kilometer 0 and the orchard
that Menéndez Mories has in Sesnández (Zamorano town where his family is from).
The proposal for this space -with a bar area for snacking and two lounges- has been designed by
Beltrán Alonso
.
From his experienced hands (he has worked with Alberto Chicote, Fernando Pérez Avellano and Sergi Arola) they come out brave, with "real" sauce;
carabinero or jerky croquettes;
aged beef tartare steak on brioche bread;
Russian salad that can be enriched with caviar if you like or a large
crunchy pig's ear
with brava sauce, free-range fried egg and red shrimp tartare, in addition to the daily suggestions and a tasting menu.
Address:
Plaza de San Miguel, 5. Tel .: 91 366 60 00. Average price: 25 euros (bar) and 55-60 euros (lounges).
Hermosilla restaurant room.
Hermosilla
It is not that
Matteo Carboni
, originally from Modena, has been tanned in a thousand stoves, but he has been through a few of London, New York, Barcelona and has worked with renowned chefs (such as his mentor,
Massimo Bottura
, Osteria Francescana, three Michelin stars). Settled in Mexico, where he owns different restaurants and stores of
the Sartoria Group
, he now opens a space for
traveling, contemporary and Mediterranean cuisine
in Madrid
. Carboni has surrounded himself with a good team, since the chef shares his time between Mexico City and Madrid, who is committed to the product. So much so that the Italian has spent the
last six months in Madrid
looking for the best raw material and has surrounded itself with suppliers such as Cientotreinta °;
Aceites de Jaén de Solo Aceite, cheeses selected by Formaje ... And what does it offer?
With
non-stop
hours
and open every day of the week, from artichoke hummus, fried chicken with sour lemon cream, fish, hamburgers,
tartares and ceviches
, rice dishes and, as a tribute to origin, pasta and some pizza.
In the liquid part, wines from small producers, craft beers and classic cocktails.
Address:
Hermosilla, 4. Tel .: 91 492 41 22. Average price: 25-30 euros.
La Mamona Castellana.
La Mamona Castellana
It is the last bet of
the Lalala Group
(better, the penultimate, because this restaurant group that adds breweries, nightclubs and restaurants does not stop) and the
most ambitious
project
of this brand. The bright place, with windows, plant elements and furniture in light tones, also has a large
garden with a bar available all year round
. In gastronomy there is a
non-stop
Mediterranean
proposal
, based on the
product
and without complicated elaborations that mask the quality of the raw material.
For example, a vague omelette of foie and San Simon cheese, Balfegó bluefin tuna marinated with fried eggs from the country with its sprig and potatoes or dishes that pass through Josper, such as leeks with mushroom and mushroom sauce, octopus on embers with smoked potato foam or old beef tenderloin.
And, for sea fans, a honeyed rice with pulpitos and crayfish or a crispy pixin with Biscayne sauce
.
Address
: Paseo de la Castellana, 62. Tel .: 91 088 50 40. Average price: 45-50 euros.
Hall of the Revolt.
The revolt
Its opening was
delayed by the pandemic
and now, a year and a half later, it lifts the closure with force and opens the doors wide. Located in a building in the Salamanca district dating from the
early 19th century,
the decoration takes the diner back to other times: exposed brick walls, oak wood paneling and the dining room
draped and lit by small lamps
. And it is that this charming place emanates nostalgia for the Madrid taverns of yesteryear, while in the kitchen it is imposed is a
market menu,
which is renewed depending on the season. It can start with some classic and delicious
bravas from grandma
or a shrimp salad, and continue with a burrata with millefeuille; the
oxtail bath
, a low-temperature rib of veal or sea urchins au gratin.
Address:
Maldonado, 7. Tel .: 91 561 34 89. Average price: 30 euros.
Cheek brioche from Tasquita Los Ochoa.
Tasquita Los Ochoa
From the creators of Cokima now comes this place that values the
traditional tavern
. Located on the Paseo de la Castellana, its long marble bar, its tables with French feet and its illustrations with a traditional touch set the tone for what will also be on the menu, where well-known dishes are presented with a creative touch and something hooligan. The
Russian salad
is served here with fried egg and edamames; its
torreznos
made at a low temperature and served with tumbled potatoes and
croquettes
, served with a veil of Iberian dewlap, are some of the exquisite morsels on its menu. For those who want more, the
cachopin
awaits them
of veal stuffed with semi-cured cheese.
The place also serves breakfast, with the same concept of escaping from the conventional.
Their grilled croissant with baked brie cheese, ham mayonnaise, ham and arugula is quite a statement of intent.
Address
: Paseo de la Castellana 117. Tel .: 912 87 68 20. Average price: € 30-35.
Omelette from Gran Café Santander.
GRAN CAFÉ SANTANDER
The corner of the Plaza de Santa Bárbara, where the Santander Cafeteria witnessed so many events in the capital since it opened in 1967, has reopened at the hands of the Cañadío group (La Maruca, La Bien Aparecida). Now as Gran Café Santander, and after months of reform, it is presented with a menu where the tortilla skewer, squid rings and the cheese cake that have given so many joys to the group shine. As in the other restaurants of the label, the product makes the difference. They offer breakfasts -where there is no shortage of sobaos pasiegos-, lunches and dinners, in that
'non stop' concept
so well received in the capital.
The asparagus two sauces, the classic seafood cocktail with lobster, the Orly prawns or the Russian steak are some of the essential dishes.
The decoration, signed by Sandra Tarruella, is another of the strong points of the space;
the curvilinear aesthetic is reminiscent of the great European cafes of the 70s.
Address
: Plaza de Santa Bárbara, 4. Telephone:
91 445 72 95. Average price: 50 euros.
Fake risotto with sweet potato from Zest.
ZEST ALMAGRO
It is the 'healthy' opening of the season, with tasty, appetizing dishes that make healthy versions of some diet classics. In its menu there are
croquettes
,
low-calorie
pasta
with mushroom and truffle sauce, carbonara, or accompanied by tomato, aubergine and fetay cheese and
air-
fried tiger prawn
tempura
covered in Japanese mayonnaise on a bed of wakame seaweed to get rid of the head that eating healthy has to be boring. There is no shortage of hamburgers, yes, made with 50% defatted entrecote and 50% grilled aubergine. Each diner is given a
caloric comparison
after the meal showing the calories of the Zest version compared to the traditional version.
For dessert, you must try the baked pumpkin and cheese cake with homemade cookie crumble, or the very chocolate cake.
Address
: Fernando El Santo 4. Average price: 28-30 euros.
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