Gastronomy

Cocido soup from the Madrid restaurant Lhardy.

Who doesn't fancy a soup when the temperatures drop?

As versatile as few dishes, we selected five universal recipes and where to eat them in Madrid

This restorative preparation, present in most culinary traditions, has a high content of nutrients and great satiating power.

We are sorry for the

mafalderos

(you know, Mafalda, that character from Quino, recently deceased, who hated soup) and other detractors of the spoon, but

we lose the soup

, either that "plate composed of

a broth and one or more solid ingredients

cooked in it ", as defined by the dictionary of the RAE, or that" broth, often thickened with bread, pasta or rice, and accompanied with meat or fish and vegetables ", which is described in

Larousse Gastronomique

, the bible of international cuisine.

The truth is that when temperatures drop, four drops fall and the sun becomes cloudy, the body and soul of most mortals ask for soup in any language (suppe, soup, soupe, soúpa, súpa, soppa, zuppa. .. and even in Swahili, supu).

As versatile as few dishes, it is part of the

universal culinary tradition

: "It crosses borders and, why not, any country in the world could claim it as its own heritage or, if the opposite is preferred, perhaps we are facing what could be considered as a Patrimony of Humanity ", is added in the book

Sopas

(Ed. Planeta Gastro), of the Alicia Foundation, a center that investigates culinary products and processes with the aim of improving people's nutrition.

And it is rich in vitamins and minerals (from vegetables, meats and fish that we usually use in its preparation), it has great satiating power and is easy to digest.

Faced with such benefits, who can resist?

Spaniards consume it

at least twice a week on

average, although there are organizations that even propose to take it more often, such as the Fundación Dieta Mediterránea, which points out at least four servings a week.

Of

the thousand and one recipes

that exist, we have selected five (Castilian, minestrone, ramen, onion and, of course, cooked) to

warm up

with them and a dozen restaurants where you can enjoy them by the spoonful.

The Castilian soup of Ponzano.

Castilian soup

Subsistence dish where there are any, the traditional ingredients of this humble and popular homeland recipe that comforted body and soul were

water, bread

-if it is candeal, the better, its large crumb absorbs the broth more and makes the soup fat-,

garlic

and paprika.

Over time, the Castilian soup has acquired more

substance

, the water has turned into a

broth enriched

with meat and chicken and

eggs

have been added

(added little by little and at the end so that it becomes spun) and raw ham in the last moment.

At least, that's how they prepare it in the

Ponzano

restaurant from Chamberlain

(Ponzano, 12. Madrid. Tel .: 91 448 68 80), where it is sometimes included in the daily menu;

others, it is offered alone (10 euros) and now, that we are in the season of chanterelles, it is taken with mushroom carpaccio (12 euros).

The

secret

of the soup at

La Cocina de María Luisa

(Jorge Juan, 42. Tel. 91 781 01 80) is to add a little garlic ... and "that way it doesn't repeat ...", explains its chef and owner, María from Soria Luisa Banzo, who is committed to the traditional recipe, whose virtues (seven) praised her grandmother.

"It takes away hunger, thirst gives little, lets sleep, digest, never gets angry, beautifies and makes his face red. And my grandfather added, if there is enough, it can be used for breakfast", concludes the cook.

Price: 10.50 euros.

Miso ramen, from Ninja Ramen.

Ramen

And from the national tradition, to the Asian one.

A decade ago we did not know about this

Japanese soup of Chinese origin

that today has made a place among the variety of soup dishes in the capital.

Of course, we cannot say that it is made with "four little things", because if there is something in these recipes, they are

ingredients

(noodles, boiled egg, chives, pork, chicken, miso, seaweed ...), but its

soul

is the

slow chup chup

broths

.

Like the ones that make up the

Ninja Ramen

proposal

(Barceló, 1. Tel .: 91 493 99 93), whose menu includes up to 10 soups, made with seasonal products.

Chicken, vegetable, with curry, the

brand new wagyu

(limited edition, each day it offers 15 servings in the lunch and dinner services) ... or, the most demanded in this Japanese izakaya, the roast pork

in broth of white miso

.

Prices: from 11.90 to 13.90 euros.

Also the dense broths, cooked over low heat for

more than 24 hours

, are the secret of the

three varieties

of hot ramen (there is a fourth without broth) that are served at

Chuka Ramen Bar

(Echegaray, 9. Telf .: 640 65 13 46).

It is

hakata tonkotsu

, a creamy soup of fine noodles, accompanied by meats - bacon and chicken -, mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, pickled ginger, sesame oil and egg;

Tokio shoyu circa 1900

,

lighter

soup

(made with smoked bonito, seafood, seaweed, among other ingredients) with noodles, bacon, roasted bamboo and shimeji (Asian mushrooms), and a

vegetable ramen

offered off the menu.

Average price: 15 euros.

Minestrone soup, by Trattoria Sant Arcangelo.

Minestrone

It is as easy as it

looks find, among the wide range of Italian dining is in the capital, homemade soup with vegetables this

season

.

However, there are still some classics that this traditional recipe that is eaten

in Italian homes

maintains on the menu

.

In

Trattoria Sant Arcangelo

(Moreto, 15. Telf: 91 369 10 93) they prepare it every day with a

mix

of vegetables

cooked with care

(carrot, zucchini, celery, onion, potatoes, spinach leaves, homemade fried tomato), vegetable broth and pasta,

usually penne or rigotoni

, which they cut into small squares.

Price: 9.90 euros.

It is also a fixed proposal in

La Nonna's

menu

(Prof. Waksman, 8. Telf .: 91 4 57 56 27), where they are faithful to the

traditional recipe

: vegetables and pasta and all the flavor of grandmother's kitchen .

Price: 9.50 euros

Onion soup, from Le Bistroman Atelier.

Onion soup

Although there are historical records from the Middle Ages in some European countries, the truth is that onion soup is a classic of Gallic gastronomy.

Theories or legends about its origin apart (that if Louis XVI invented it; that if the recipe belonged to his father-in-law, Marie Antoinette's father, which was later adapted by the common people with what he had at hand ...), this This dish was

popularized in the 19th century

by the hands of certain people who, after partying, recharged their strength in the taverns and restaurants near the

Les Halles food market

where the workers ate it.

Over time, the dish mutated into a

delicatessen

, especially when it added gratin cheese.

At

Le Bistroman Atelier

(Amnesty, 10. Tel .: 91 447 27 13) they serve it with Emmental cheese, sustainably farmed poultry broth and organic onions.

Price: 17.50 euros.

Also

Brasserie Lafayette

(Recaredo, 2. Tel .: 91 260 69 12) opt for the classic recipe

à soupe l'oignon

, but with a personal touch.

Thus, at Sébastien Leparoux's house, in El Viso, they choose to prepare it

in three textures

: the base is a white onion puree, with glazed onion cream, onion crisp and, of course, with the mandatory gratin cheese.

Price: 12 euros.

Cocido soup, from La Bola.

Cooked soup

In the

homeland chica del cocido

, soup is the first turnaround, followed by chickpeas, vegetables and meats ... And, although most of the Madrid hotel offer opts for the full plate, there are houses that also dispatch soup from

individually

.

For example,

Lhardy

(Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8. Tel .: 91 521 33 85), a true classic specializing in stew.

This restaurant, founded in 1839, serves it with

cabellin noodles and

ham

mince

and chicken breast sirloin.

Price: 10.50 euros per portion.

They also sell it in the store to take away (19.90 euros per liter).

In

La Bola

(La Bola, 5. Telf .: 91 547 69 30), a centenary restaurant that has its hallmark in the stew made on wood embers and in

individual

clay

pots

, the noodles arrive at the table dry in a plate and, over them,

pour the broth

from the clay pot where the stew has been prepared.

Price: 8 euros.

It's soup time ...

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