Gastronomy
Cocido soup from the Madrid restaurant Lhardy.
Who doesn't fancy a soup when the temperatures drop?
As versatile as few dishes, we selected five universal recipes and where to eat them in Madrid
This restorative preparation, present in most culinary traditions, has a high content of nutrients and great satiating power.
We are sorry for the
mafalderos
(you know, Mafalda, that character from Quino, recently deceased, who hated soup) and other detractors of the spoon, but
we lose the soup
, either that "plate composed of
a broth and one or more solid ingredients
cooked in it ", as defined by the dictionary of the RAE, or that" broth, often thickened with bread, pasta or rice, and accompanied with meat or fish and vegetables ", which is described in
Larousse Gastronomique
, the bible of international cuisine.
The truth is that when temperatures drop, four drops fall and the sun becomes cloudy, the body and soul of most mortals ask for soup in any language (suppe, soup, soupe, soúpa, súpa, soppa, zuppa. .. and even in Swahili, supu).
As versatile as few dishes, it is part of the
universal culinary tradition
: "It crosses borders and, why not, any country in the world could claim it as its own heritage or, if the opposite is preferred, perhaps we are facing what could be considered as a Patrimony of Humanity ", is added in the book
Sopas
(Ed. Planeta Gastro), of the Alicia Foundation, a center that investigates culinary products and processes with the aim of improving people's nutrition.
And it is rich in vitamins and minerals (from vegetables, meats and fish that we usually use in its preparation), it has great satiating power and is easy to digest.
Faced with such benefits, who can resist?
Spaniards consume it
at least twice a week on
average, although there are organizations that even propose to take it more often, such as the Fundación Dieta Mediterránea, which points out at least four servings a week.
Of
the thousand and one recipes
that exist, we have selected five (Castilian, minestrone, ramen, onion and, of course, cooked) to
warm up
with them and a dozen restaurants where you can enjoy them by the spoonful.
The Castilian soup of Ponzano.
Castilian soup
Subsistence dish where there are any, the traditional ingredients of this humble and popular homeland recipe that comforted body and soul were
water, bread
-if it is candeal, the better, its large crumb absorbs the broth more and makes the soup fat-,
garlic
and paprika.
Over time, the Castilian soup has acquired more
substance
, the water has turned into a
broth enriched
with meat and chicken and
eggs
have been added
(added little by little and at the end so that it becomes spun) and raw ham in the last moment.
At least, that's how they prepare it in the
Ponzano
restaurant from Chamberlain
(Ponzano, 12. Madrid. Tel .: 91 448 68 80), where it is sometimes included in the daily menu;
others, it is offered alone (10 euros) and now, that we are in the season of chanterelles, it is taken with mushroom carpaccio (12 euros).
The
secret
of the soup at
La Cocina de María Luisa
(Jorge Juan, 42. Tel. 91 781 01 80) is to add a little garlic ... and "that way it doesn't repeat ...", explains its chef and owner, María from Soria Luisa Banzo, who is committed to the traditional recipe, whose virtues (seven) praised her grandmother.
"It takes away hunger, thirst gives little, lets sleep, digest, never gets angry, beautifies and makes his face red. And my grandfather added, if there is enough, it can be used for breakfast", concludes the cook.
Price: 10.50 euros.
Miso ramen, from Ninja Ramen.
Ramen
And from the national tradition, to the Asian one.
A decade ago we did not know about this
Japanese soup of Chinese origin
that today has made a place among the variety of soup dishes in the capital.
Of course, we cannot say that it is made with "four little things", because if there is something in these recipes, they are
ingredients
(noodles, boiled egg, chives, pork, chicken, miso, seaweed ...), but its
soul
is the
slow chup chup
broths
.
Like the ones that make up the
Ninja Ramen
proposal
(Barceló, 1. Tel .: 91 493 99 93), whose menu includes up to 10 soups, made with seasonal products.
Chicken, vegetable, with curry, the
brand new wagyu
(limited edition, each day it offers 15 servings in the lunch and dinner services) ... or, the most demanded in this Japanese izakaya, the roast pork
in broth of white miso
.
Prices: from 11.90 to 13.90 euros.
Also the dense broths, cooked over low heat for
more than 24 hours
, are the secret of the
three varieties
of hot ramen (there is a fourth without broth) that are served at
Chuka Ramen Bar
(Echegaray, 9. Telf .: 640 65 13 46).
It is
hakata tonkotsu
, a creamy soup of fine noodles, accompanied by meats - bacon and chicken -, mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, pickled ginger, sesame oil and egg;
Tokio shoyu circa 1900
,
lighter
soup
(made with smoked bonito, seafood, seaweed, among other ingredients) with noodles, bacon, roasted bamboo and shimeji (Asian mushrooms), and a
vegetable ramen
offered off the menu.
Average price: 15 euros.
Minestrone soup, by Trattoria Sant Arcangelo.
Minestrone
It is as easy as it
looks find, among the wide range of Italian dining is in the capital, homemade soup with vegetables this
season
.
However, there are still some classics that this traditional recipe that is eaten
in Italian homes
maintains on the menu
.
In
Trattoria Sant Arcangelo
(Moreto, 15. Telf: 91 369 10 93) they prepare it every day with a
mix
of vegetables
cooked with care
(carrot, zucchini, celery, onion, potatoes, spinach leaves, homemade fried tomato), vegetable broth and pasta,
usually penne or rigotoni
, which they cut into small squares.
Price: 9.90 euros.
It is also a fixed proposal in
La Nonna's
menu
(Prof. Waksman, 8. Telf .: 91 4 57 56 27), where they are faithful to the
traditional recipe
: vegetables and pasta and all the flavor of grandmother's kitchen .
Price: 9.50 euros
Onion soup, from Le Bistroman Atelier.
Onion soup
Although there are historical records from the Middle Ages in some European countries, the truth is that onion soup is a classic of Gallic gastronomy.
Theories or legends about its origin apart (that if Louis XVI invented it; that if the recipe belonged to his father-in-law, Marie Antoinette's father, which was later adapted by the common people with what he had at hand ...), this This dish was
popularized in the 19th century
by the hands of certain people who, after partying, recharged their strength in the taverns and restaurants near the
Les Halles food market
where the workers ate it.
Over time, the dish mutated into a
delicatessen
, especially when it added gratin cheese.
At
Le Bistroman Atelier
(Amnesty, 10. Tel .: 91 447 27 13) they serve it with Emmental cheese, sustainably farmed poultry broth and organic onions.
Price: 17.50 euros.
Also
Brasserie Lafayette
(Recaredo, 2. Tel .: 91 260 69 12) opt for the classic recipe
à soupe l'oignon
, but with a personal touch.
Thus, at Sébastien Leparoux's house, in El Viso, they choose to prepare it
in three textures
: the base is a white onion puree, with glazed onion cream, onion crisp and, of course, with the mandatory gratin cheese.
Price: 12 euros.
Cocido soup, from La Bola.
Cooked soup
In the
homeland chica del cocido
, soup is the first turnaround, followed by chickpeas, vegetables and meats ... And, although most of the Madrid hotel offer opts for the full plate, there are houses that also dispatch soup from
individually
.
For example,
Lhardy
(Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8. Tel .: 91 521 33 85), a true classic specializing in stew.
This restaurant, founded in 1839, serves it with
cabellin noodles and
ham
mince
and chicken breast sirloin.
Price: 10.50 euros per portion.
They also sell it in the store to take away (19.90 euros per liter).
In
La Bola
(La Bola, 5. Telf .: 91 547 69 30), a centenary restaurant that has its hallmark in the stew made on wood embers and in
individual
clay
pots
, the noodles arrive at the table dry in a plate and, over them,
pour the broth
from the clay pot where the stew has been prepared.
Price: 8 euros.
It's soup time ...
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