A peculiar 'golf' tour leads to some of the most emblematic points of the beautiful Swiss city, the great 'forgotten' of tourists on their way from Geneva to Zurich
Hanging on a rocky promontory in a meander of the Sarine River, the small and discreet Freiburg (not to be confused with the German town) is one of the unknown jewels of western prealpine Switzerland. Equidistant about 150 km from the cosmopolitan Zurich (to the north) and Geneva (to the south), the city, from the most important villas of the Middle Ages in its day , is one of the great unknown by tourists, in favor of the neighbor Bern, capital of the Swiss country, just 30 km away.
The orography of the charming city makes it divided into two parts: the high, modern and bustling, and the low, a haven of peace on the banks of the river, where the wonderful medieval old town is located, delimited by the walls and cliffs . Steep alleys, winding cobbled stairs and a funicular connect these two areas. Also, urban buses, although the most advisable to soak up the local environment is to walk, either summer or winter, and get lost between streets to discover its ideal corners, the viewpoints, its squares with colorful fountains and sculptures, the bridges, the more than 200 gothic facades of the fifteenth century and other heritage.
To get an idea of what Friborg is like, it is obligatory to visit the gothic cathedral of San Nicolás (built between 1182 and 1490, in the upper part of the town, next to the Town Hall square) and climb the 365 steps to the top of its main tower (price: 3 euros). From the outdoor viewpoint at 74 m high (the panoramic views are spectacular), the framework of the old town, the remains of the wall, some of the 14 towers that formed it and the great bulwark, as well as the houses are perfectly distinguished hanging from the cliffs of the river, the bridges - from the oldest of the s. XIII, that of Bern, until the most recent, that of La Poya, of 2014- and the upper part, with its palaces and the University.
Golf in the middle of the city
To get to know Friborg better and make it even more enjoyable for the little ones, the town hall has launched an original initiative: an imaginary 18-hole golf course that passes through some of the most important and historic enclaves of the town . What does it consist of? It is about getting a stick and a foam rubber ball that, as if it were a miniature golf, you have to put it in the hole, then point the blows on a card. All this is provided by the tourist office, in addition to a map with the route (Jean-Tinguely 1 square; price: 9 euros / adults and 5 euros / children). The itinerary (circular, 8.5 km) is recognizable by the blue flags, next to the holes where you have to put the ball a few meters, scattered throughout the city.
Hole 1 of the route is at the entrance of the Funicular , in the upper part. Once played, you have to go down to the old town. You can walk or in the mentioned cabin, a jewel of 1899 that does not work with an engine, but is driven by the purified waters of the city (price: 3 euros). Once down, the route, totally flexible, leads to other beautiful enclaves, such as the San Juan Bridge (hole 3), with beautiful views of the hanging houses; the Abbey of Maigrauge (hole 4), Cistercian convent and church of the s. XIII; La Planche-Inférieure (hole 6), an esplanade next to the river surrounded by charming medieval houses; the Milieu stone bridge (hole 7), with beautiful views of the cathedral, and the Derrière-les-Jardinse gardens (hole 8), a park from which you can then access the beautiful wooden bridge of Bern , the oldest of the city (initial construction in 1270), which crosses the only neighborhood in the town where only German is spoken (the rest is Francophone).
From there, the itinerary continues along the modern Zaehringen bridge (hole 10), which leads back to the upper part of Freiburg; the Hospital des Bourgeois (hole 17), a construction of 1667, very close to the University, and, finally, by the gardens of Grand-Places (hole 18), or the artists, in the heart of Freiburg, next to the station and just behind the original Teatro del Equilibrio , an avant-garde building of 2011, whose auditorium welcomes 700 people.
Black lake
If you do not have a car (it is recommended to take the Swiss Pass to travel at reduced prices and get discounts on the entry of monuments and attractions throughout the country), the complete urban bus system in Freiburg (the station is next to the train ) facilitates the possibility of leaving the city and accessing the multitude of wonderful places that surround it. One of them, and a must see, is Schwarzsee, also called the Black Lake. Located 30 km away in the Friborg Alps (bus 123 takes about 50 minutes, from 6 euros / way), this idyllic place, which is reached after crossing endless meadows dotted with flowers and cows, farms, cheese factories and forests, is a spectacular holiday center chaired by a lake, where you can swim (in sulphurous waters at 22 degrees) and practice water sports in summer or skate on its waters when they freeze, in winter. Surrounded by green mountains that reach 2,000 m altitude, it is a paradise for hikers, as well as for lovers of skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing ..., since it is also a winter season (22 km of slopes). A ski lift goes up to Riggisalp / Kaiseregg (2,185 m), where there is a cafeteria with the best views. It is the starting point for very varied mountain excursions: more than 200 km of paths for walking and 180 km of routes for mountain bikers, all marked. It is also the perfect place to sit on the viewpoint, breathe fresh air, take the opportunity to take pictures and enjoy the scenery, the tranquility and the not too distant sound of cow cowbells, which graze peacefully making impossible balances on the slopes of the prealpine peaks.
Where to sleep
Hotel Alpha | Rue du Simplon, 13 | from 100 euros. Comfortable modern and functional hotel a few steps from the central station and next to one of the main shopping streets of Freiburg. It has all the comforts (free wifi), private parking (12 euros) and offers a rich and varied breakfast.
The Rose Friborg | Morat, 1 | from 104 euros. Emblematic hotel that occupies an elegant 17th century building in the city center, opposite the Cathedral and the Town Hall square.
Where to eat
Located in the lower part of the city, in a quiet square next to the medieval bridge of San Juan, Le Sauvage (Planche-Supérieure 12), in the hotel of the same name, is a renowned restaurant in the city of elaborated author cuisine and of impeccable presentation. It has three different tasting menus (from 80 euros) and it is essential to order the dessert cheese board. Precisely, the gruyer and the vacherin are the protagonists of the dish par excellence friburgués: the cheese fondue . Those of Café du Midi (Romont 25) are recognized, which has up to seven varieties (the simple one, from 25 euros / person). Hidden in an old rustic wood building, hung on the rock above the river, Belvédère (Grand-Rue 36) is one of the restaurants with the best views of the city. You must sit on your terrace. It has a letter for lunch and dinner, but it is also a meeting point for drinking beer, coffee ... On the banks of the river, in what was the gas factory, Le Port de Friborg (Planche-Inférieure, 5) is a bistro with a lot of atmosphere surrounded by gardens and urban gardens, ideal to drink something with live music or take one of its simple ecological menus. To taste the local delicacies, cheeses, chocolates, cakes and traditional sweets, in addition to freshly brought vegetables from the garden, every Saturday a flea market is organized in the Town Hall square, next to the cathedral.
How to get
Iberia and Swiss Air fly daily to Zurich and Geneva (290 euros). From both airports, the train connects in an hour and a half to the center of Freiburg, for about 30 euros / route (more information, www.swisstravelsystem.com).
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