ESMERALDA SÁEZ Castilla y León

Castile and León

Updated Tuesday, April 9, 2024-00:03

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We are in the Ribera del Duero. The 115 kilometers that this region occupies go a long way, not only because of the importance of its wines, but also because of its history, its culture and its gastronomy. In this natural setting, with hilly reliefs and fertile meadows, is

La Posada de Pradorey,

in the Burgos town of Gumiel del Mercado, just an hour and a half by car from Madrid. This old palace, which is even called "little Versailles", hosted illustrious figures such as King Philip III, the Duke of Lerma,

Lope de Vega and Rubens.

It was built in Herrerian style by the Duke of Lerma, in 1601, as a hunting palace for King Felipe III.

Later, the estate passed through different owners until, in 1989,

Javier Cremades

bought the estate and dedicated himself to returning it to its former splendor. It is at that time when the vineyard is planted and the palace is renovated to convert it into the current Inn. Today, it is one of the most unique and recommended accommodations in the area, with

18 rooms

, decorated in a rustic Castilian style. They are ideal for resting and disconnecting in a unique environment.

When visiting Ribera del Duero it is almost mandatory to taste the magnificent local cuisine. The plan now becomes irresistible with La Posada's new gourmet offer. The Arandino chef,

Ricardo Martín

, with plenty of experience in the kitchen, offers us to savor an attractive, simple recipe book, with identifiable flavors, beautiful presentations and of course, with nods to the local product.

Rainbow trout with thyme and rosemary velouté.

An original tasting menu that the young chef starts in reverse with coffee: a

boletus cappuccino

with butter and truffle pastes. The second could well be dessert... but no: carrot and paprika cake, hummus and crunchy spices, a real trompe l'oeil. We continue with an approach to the surroundings with a spectacular rainbow trout with thyme and rosemary velouté,

glazed mini vegetables and carrot cream

. And to top off the main dishes it is the turn of the game: venison loin in a spice crust, corn cream, beet petals and red wine reduction. And the dessert, the real one, is an inverted tatin.

Now, if these dishes are not to the diner's taste, an extensive menu will please the most demanding palate: from its famous omelette with black pudding to a slab of low-temperature bacon or

pularda stuffed with figs and foie

. There are more informal alternatives such as the creamy croquettes, the lamb burger or the country sandwich. In the desserts, the white chocolate panna cotta, red fruit coulis and dehydrated mango stand out.

And to accompany the exquisite food, the drink is clear: one of the 17

Pradorey

references

. In this Ribera del Duero winery there are choices for all tastes, each with its own

personality

, such as the surprising Rosado, the extraordinary Valdelayegua, or the elegant La Mina.

The farm dining room.

Another of Pradorey's jewels is the family winery that is located just two kilometers from the Inn. It is one of the most recognized in the area, with more than

500 hectares of

its own vineyards, 800 hectares of native oak and juniper forest and an agricultural-livestock farm. In addition, the farm has a hydroelectric dam, a solar garden, and a water treatment plant, an example of sustainability and care for the

environment

.

To make the getaway complete, you can visit, next to the Inn, a

simple hermitage,

built in the 16th century and restored in the 1950s, which preserves inside a baptismal font from the 14th century and a magnificent altarpiece from the late 19th century. 15th century of a delicate Spanish-Flemish style.

At Pradorey they understand wine tourism as an invitation to discover something more than exceptional wines. They organize guided tours of the winery

, tastings, and events

throughout the year. Its baroque theater days in July, mycological excursions in November and special grape harvest days are famous. You just need to be encouraged.

PRACTICAL GUIDE

WHERE. The Pradorey Inn.

Ctra CL-619Km 66.1. Gumiel del Mercado, Burgos. Web: www.pradorey.es

SERVICES.

It has 18 rooms in a spectacular building with views of the gardens. It also has a restaurant and swimming pool.

PRICE.

From 80 euros room. Visit the winery, plus tasting of three wines, plus five-course tasting menu, drinks excluded, €70. The list of dishes will change with seasonal proposals, always with an eye on local products, and with a fixed price of €50. For more informal lunches, at midday from Monday to Friday, they serve an executive menu with several options to choose from that includes an appetizer, starter, main course and dessert for €20.

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