Laurent Mariotte SEASON 2023 - 2024 12:30 p.m., March 30, 2024
Laurent Mariotte surrounds himself with bon vivants for a show around everyday cooking: whether they are chefs, artists or intellectuals, they have in common this passion for eating well and share it for 1h30 with Europe 1 listeners. Gourmet walks through the markets and among producers, simple recipes and advice close to the concerns of listeners... The unmissable meeting place for gourmands!
Seasonal products and advice, Laurent Mariotte and his bon vivants are here for the sixth season of La table des Bon vivants! A show to help you eat well and understand what you eat.
This week, Laurent Mariotte is surrounded by Lyon chef Sonia Ezgulian and bistronom chef Yves Camdeborde. Every week, Laurent Mariotte and his columnists tell you about their taste of the week. It could be a flavor that marked their week, a restaurant that caught their eye, a dish that they cooked or that we concocted for them. The opportunity to discover new tastes or new addresses, favorites but also, for them, to have rants. First to speak: Sonia Ezgulian. She brought a beautiful object: a leg clamp (also called iron or sleeve). This obsolete object allows you to elegantly present and cut a leg of lamb (or venison). Laurent Mariotte describes this object as a sort of pinching fork. Yves Camdeborde specifies that the pliers hold the leg bone, which then allows the meat to be cut from top to bottom, in the direction of the fibers. Perfect for your Easter meal! Yves Camdeborde tells us his latest recipe based on green asparagus, browned in a pan with olive oil. He accompanied them with a lightly cooked egg, with a still runny yolk, and flavored with lemon juice. All served with a few rocket leaves. Finally, asparagus is also on the menu for Laurent Mariotte’s taste of the week. But this time combined with Corsican kumquat. He bought this little citrus fruit in the Terroir d'Avenir store in Paris. He paired it with raw asparagus from the Landes cut into tagliatelle, with a beautiful olive oil from Baux-de-Provence.
This is also an opportunity for you, dear Europe 1 listeners, to tell us your taste of the week. For this you have two solutions: on the Europe 1 answering machine at 01 80 20 39 21 (non-premium rate number) or on the Facebook page of the show “Laurent Mariotte, the group of good people from Europe 1”. One listener will be selected each week.
This week's report is devoted to the Easter menu. Tradition or no side? This is the question that journalist Marion Sauveur asked you at the Grenelle market, in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. Columnists Yves Camdeborde and Sonia Ezgulian give you their ideas and tips for lunch. And recipes based on egg, asparagus or even lamb that are easy to make. Before moving on to dessert…
This week's file is devoted to chocolate! Many of us are waiting for the bells to make their chocolate delivery! Dark, milk, praline, egg, rabbit, chicken: there is something for everyone! Laurent Mariotte and his columnists of the day, the cook Sonia Ezgulian and the bistronom chef Yves Camdeborde, welcome the cocoa roaster and chocolatier, Nicolas Berger, to talk about chocolate. He selects the cocoa beans, roasts them and makes his chocolate. He sells his chocolate pistoles only to professionals - chefs, pastry chefs, chocolatiers - he offers what is called couverture chocolate, with a minimum percentage of cocoa butter.
Nicolas Berger works on ten origins available in 3 intensities for dark chocolate. The first is the most standard: 65%. It is a mixture of sugar and cocoa paste (no added cocoa butter) which will allow a hot chocolate not to be too heavy, a chocolate mousse to be creamy for example. The second is: 75%. It adds cocoa butter to add fluidity to the chocolate, which is suitable for molding bars or Easter chocolates. And finally the third 100%. It is only crushed cocoa beans, without the addition of cocoa butter. Nicolas Berger also offers milk chocolate (in two origins and three intensities) and vegetable oat chocolate.
On the occasion of Easter, the chocolatier gives his tips for making egg molds or frying. To succeed, you must temper your chocolate. That is to say, you must control its temperature with a probe: first lower it to 28 degrees, before raising it to 30 degrees. Sonia Ezgulian and Yves Camdeborde make us salivate by giving us tips for making Easter desserts… with chocolate.
It's impossible not to talk about current affairs with Nicolas Berger. At the moment, cocoa prices are soaring. It has tripled in 1 year (+ 162% compared to Easter 2023). This week, it jumped to more than $910,000 per ton. This has never been seen since 1970! The reason ? More than 70% of global cocoa production is located in West Africa and the countries have suffered heavy rains followed by severe drought which led to the development of diseases on plantations. Nicolas Berger is experiencing this crisis head-on… It’s very complicated for him!
As in every episode, the bon vivant table team continues to play with you. Laurent Mariotte makes you listen to a sound related to cooking... it's up to you to discover it. To play with us, send an SMS with the word “CUISINE” to 7 39 21 (3 x €0.75 + SMS cost).
Laurent Mariotte and his columnists then return to current events. This week, focus on imported fruits. According to calculations by Marion Sauveur, based on the FranceAgriMer fresh fruit sector sheet, 77% of the fresh fruit we eat in France is not French. Most of the fresh fruits concerned are fruits that do not grow or grow little in our intramural territory, such as bananas, oranges or clementines. But we also import fruits that grow here: 74% of table grapes are imported; 39% of pears are imported; 40% of peaches/nectarines also come from overseas. The apple, which is the fruit most consumed by the French, is not affected by imports. Because it is the most produced fruit in France. Nearly half of these imported fruits come from Spain or Italy, or from much further afield such as Latin America or Africa. A situation that revolts bistronomic chef Yves Camdeborde.
Laurent Mariotte receives a guest every week. Today, it’s chef Yannick Alléno. A multi-starred chef, he promotes French cuisine throughout the world. After defending the Ile-de-France region, he developed gourmet burgers with his son Antoine. His work on sauces would be worth a show. It is he who is delighting the table of bon vivants this week with a classic and gourmet dish, one of the French's favorites: veal blanquette. To add more deliciousness, he garnished it with morels. The rice accompanies the blanquette. The starred chef gives his tips for making this blanquette a success. You can find the recipe on Europe1.fr.
Before the last part of the show, Lyon columnist Sonia Ezgulian gives us all her tips for making pies.
Finally, Laurent Mariotte puts chef Yannick Alléno on the bon vivant grill. He answers Laurent Mariotte's questions so that we get to know him better on the other side of the fork. What is your childhood dish? What do you always find in your fridge? What is your secret address? What is the word for hunger? Here are some of the questions asked by Laurent Mariotte. Yannick Alléno reveals that he would have liked to invent a dish from Yves Camdeborde… alongside him during this show.
Laurent Mariotte is surrounded by Bon vivants: Sonia Ezgulian and Yves Camdeborde Our guest Chef Yannick Alléno His news
https://guide.michelin.com/fr/fr/article/michelin-guide-ceremony/le-palmares-du-guide-michelin-france-2024
https://www.yannick-alleno.com/fr/les-equipes.html
https://www.associationantoinealleno.fr/ Tastes of the week
> You too tell us your taste of the week on the Europe 1 answering machine at 01 80 20 39 21 (non-premium rate number). The report of the week What is your Easter menu? This is the question that Marion Sauveur asked you at the Grenelle market, in Paris. File of the week Chocolate, star of Easter with cocoa roaster and chocolatier Nicolas Berger https://www.chocolat-nicolasberger.com/ News of the week More and more fresh fruit is imported > FranceAgriMer https://www.franceagrimer.fr/content/download/72755/document/20240112_FICHE_FILIERE_FRUITS_2024.pdf Chronicles of the week
The dish of the day Veal blanquette with morels by Yannick Alléno to be enjoyed at Pavyllon, on the lunch menu Wine of the day Chante-Alouette - Herlitage - M. Chapoutier - 2020 https://www.chapoutier.com/fr/ |
SONIA EZGULIAN’S RECIPES FROU-FROU EGGS Frou-frou eggs are a very old recipe that combines poached eggs with a slightly liquid mayonnaise. The undulating contours of the eggs evoke the rustle of a fabric. Also called Mediterranean caviar, bottarga is a sac of salted and dried mullet eggs, traditionally preserved in wax. Ingredients for 4 persons
Preparation Cook the eggs for 6 minutes in boiling water. Refresh them in ice water. Peel them delicately. In a bowl, mix the mayonnaise with the lime juice to loosen the sauce. It becomes more supple and more easily coated. With a mandolin, cut very thin strips of bottarga. Place the poached eggs in a pretty dish, cover them with mayonnaise then sprinkle with bottarga petals, hairy to make even more frou-frou! © Europe 1 BEGGAGE OF GIGOT WITH DRIED FRUITS Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour Ingredients for 8 people
Preparation Cut the dried fig into small cubes. With the tip of a paring knife, make small incisions at least 1 centimeter deep in the leg, then slip in a hazelnut, an almond, a pistachio, a grape or a cube of fig. Season the lamb with salt. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Drizzle the bottom of a large dish with olive oil, cover with sliced purple onions, fennel sprigs and savory. Also place the cinnamon stick, the star anise and the head of garlic cut in 2 horizontally. Bake the leg of lamb at 220°C, brown it for around 10 minutes on each side then reduce the temperature to 180°C and continue cooking for 40 minutes, basting it from time to time with white wine. Remove the leg of lamb from the dish, wrap it in aluminum foil and let it rest while you prepare the juice, scraping up the cooking juices well and let reduce for 5 minutes with the rest of the white wine. © Europe 1 CORAL LENTIL, SPRING SINGLE AND SOFT EGG PIE Ingredients for 4 persons
Preparation The day before, prepare your shortcrust pastry recipe by replacing your usual butter with cream butter* as well as the pie filling. Cook the soft-boiled eggs: immerse them in boiling water for 6 minutes then reserve them in iced water. Peel them delicately. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil with the fenugreek and cumin seeds for a few moments. Add the finely chopped white part of the spring onions and reserve the green ones for later. Add the coral lentils, cover with water, add salt and pepper and simmer for 30 minutes over low heat. Drain the lentils for a long time (pressing them strongly). Take half of the cooked lentils and mix them with the greens of the spring onions before mixing them with the rest of the unmixed lentils. Place a circle of 15 cm in diameter on a plate, line the edge of the circle with baking paper. Place half of the coral lentil stuffing, then the soft-boiled eggs rather in the center, again with the lentil stuffing. Pack and place a block and a weight. Refrigerate until the next day. The next day, roll out the shortcrust pastry. Prepare the gilding. Carefully separate the yolk from the egg white and filter through a fine sieve if necessary. Add the whipping cream** and mix. Cut out a circle much larger than that of the lentils. Place the lentil puck and cover it with dough, following the shapes of the lentil puck as closely as possible. Cut the edges of the pie and make decorations with the trimmings. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Using a brush, brush the pie with the painters' technique: a little gilding on the brush and in regular stripes. Let the first layer of gilding dry in the refrigerator before applying a second layer***. With the tip of a sharp knife, you can highlight the decorations. Bake at 220°C for 5 minutes then lower the oven temperature to 180°C for 30 minutes of cooking****. *because Lescure AOP Poitou Charente Tourage Butter for its excellent plasticity, its malleability and its high melting point (to order from your cheesemonger or on the internet) **tip from chef Yannick Alleno ***tip from chef Callum Franklin. When it comes to pies, the English must be recognized for their undeniable know-how. One of the stars of the category, Calum Franklin, chef of the London restaurant The Pie Room, entirely dedicated to pies (the English name for the pie), thrills the taste buds of lovers of beautiful crusts by opening a fabulous brasserie in Rue Daunou. For the moment, I was content to dream in front of his videos on Instagram and in the pages of his very inspiring book “the very exclusive club of pie lovers” which will soon be republished by Hachette editions. ****advice from chef Yannick Alleno. The very hot oven grips the pie and preserves its shape then the cooking becomes more gentle to cook the dough perfectly. © Europe 1 |