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In 1984 Mark Buxton took part in “Wetten,dass..?”. He lost, but was then offered a training position as a perfumer.

SPIEGEL

: In the supermarket, the subway, even in the office: Why do everyone smell the same?

Buxton:

Fragrances have become an accessory. Just like many people carry the same bag or buy the scarf that is currently trending, perfumes work today. You want to smell like your girlfriend. Teens buy whatever is in style.

SPIEGEL:

And what's in right now?

Buxton:

Almost all new women's perfumes smell fruity, floral and slightly musky, with a bit of cotton candy afterwards. Almost nothing comes onto the market today that will still be there in ten years.

SPIEGEL:

Aren't smells something very individual?

Buxton:

Sure. But even noble brands like Chanel or Louis Vuitton make perfumes for the masses. People may not be able to afford a Chanel bag, but they can afford the scent. They want a piece of the brand.

SPIEGEL:

You have developed over 200 perfumes. How does this work?

Buxton:

The brands give out detailed briefings: They want a fragrance for a woman between 30 and 40. She has a career and likes driving a convertible. Sometimes there are also examples of existing perfumes. That leaves little room for real creativity.

SPIEGEL:

How does industry and niche differ in smell?

Buxton:

Perfumes for the masses have to be simple. A niche fragrance takes time. You spray it on and it develops. Maybe he smells completely different at home. Hardly anyone wants to take this time. It has to be clear in ten seconds: I like it.

SPIEGEL:

How do you find the perfect scent for yourself?

Buxton:

There is no question I hear more often but I can't answer it. This is so personal. I have been classifying niche fragrances for my shop in Paris for several years. Customers receive five recommendations by asking a few questions.

SPIEGEL:

Is an expensive perfume automatically a better one?

Buxton:

Expensive brands like Chanel or Guerlain work with higher quality raw materials. You can smell a difference whether synthetic or real amber was used.

more on the subject

  • Starting a career in perfume development: »Fragrances are emotional, we associate them with memories, people, feelings« Recorded by Julia Wadhawan

  • Navigation by smell:Why do we have two nostrils, Ms. Schwarz?An interview by Bertolt Hunger

SPIEGEL:

What is Amber?

Buxton:

A secretion in the intestines of sperm whales.

SPIEGEL:

The fragrance influencer Jeremy Fragrance has millions of followers. Perfumes go viral and sell out for weeks. Is the future of perfume online?

Buxton:

You can't digitize scents. It then says that a perfume smells like jasmine and Ambermax, but hardly anyone knows what that means.

SPIEGEL:

What about your job as a perfumer?

Buxton:

There are companies that already have computers build their scents. This is where machines get the briefing. But that doesn't work. Chords, scents, you can learn everything, but in the end it's creativity that decides. And you can't learn that.