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In the masculine world of rum there are only a few women with power.
Jassil Villanueva
is one of them and is in charge of Brugal, a true institution in
the Dominican Republic
and an incontestable brand in Spain, where it has its
most important
international
market. She is also a woman who has made history, because she can boast of being the
youngest
rum master
in the world, an honor she achieved at only 26 years old, more than a decade ago now; In a few months she will be in the industry for 14 months.
Of Spanish descent, Jassil is also the
great-great-granddaughter
of the company's founder,
Andrés Brugal,
the Catalan born in Sitges who brought his family's know-how, dedicated to the production of liquors, to
Puerto Plata
and founded the brand in 1888. And Here you feel particularly comfortable, like at home. "My family's history is deeply rooted in Spain, not only because of my great-great-grandfather, but also the wooden barrels that we use for our products are Spanish, from
Jerez
and surrounding towns; in one way or another, we are still connected," he points out. .
Being called Brugal is essential to occupy a position like Jassil's in the company, but far from covering it up, she proudly proclaims it
:
"To get here the first thing is to belong to the family, it is the initial condition. In addition to that, "You need a good sense of smell, a good nose and a good memory," he says.
However, to sneak into the front row of such a masculine world without having turned 30, he needed
to break the mold
and say, here I am. She hesitates when I ask her to what extent: "I don't know whether to say that it was difficult for me, but I did have to
demonstrate
why they had given me the title. I was the first woman to 'audition', so to speak, with 11 other cousins, and the only chosen."
So there were many things to change. For example, something as simple, but as meaningful, as
meetings
. "When they finished and the social, family part began, they told me: 'Jassil, we're done, you can go, we'll stay here.' I rebelled: 'But why am I going out if I'm also in this?' ?' 'Yes, yes, don't worry, but we're done,' they answered," she remembers with a laugh. "After a while they realized that I was part of the group and began to treat me as such, but at first I was almost like the
pet
, the adopted one," she jokes.
That has been the most difficult part of her path, "to make that
traditional culture
understand that the world of rum was not for men, but that there was something else to offer. And to meet, from the start, family
expectations
. She was the first woman to whom they gave the opportunity, and very young. Everyone saw me as the cousin who shared the activities with them, but not as the person who worked with them."
Changing that was "the most challenging thing," he acknowledges. "It took me a while to integrate into that part of the family that, despite having given me the distinction of the
role,
still did not consider me as an equal." It was a matter of changing
schemes
, she insists. "That I occupy this opposite implies, more than anything, beyond the decision that was made at the time, a change of
mentality
, recognizing that we can all contribute the same and we should have the same
opportunities
."
She has known how to take advantage of hers. She now has a "much more predominant" role, she says, she is responsible for
leading
the team and for everything related to innovation and development. And that is saying a lot: under her command, all the previous
rum masters
, including those of the fourth generation of the family, her eldest. "They are not so much on a day-to-day basis, they work as advisors. But I am also the youngest
of
the rest of the rum masters who are now at the forefront, those of the fifth generation. And yes, they all report to me" , he points out between laughs.
After more than a decade, her presence in the company's positions of power has not only changed - now 40% of its staff are women, the majority in administrative positions - but also the officially
male
world of spirits. "Now there are many more of us, not only in the rum industry, but also in the whiskey industry and other alcohols in general. We have skills and attitudes that greatly surpass those of our parents. This is supported by different
studies scientists
who claim that we have a highly developed sense of smell, it is an innate ability. That is why there are many women involved in the development and innovation processes, because of that
sixth sense
and that additional dedication and passion that characterize us as women," she says. .
When you took the step forward in the company, did you feel the responsibility of opening doors? Being the first female rum master, I think it is something that goes without saying, as we would say there. Those doors have been opening by themselves with each of the steps I have taken, but yes, I assume that responsibility, because I understand that future generations need to see more women in the spirits industry and specifically in the world of rum. . Does rum have a feminine side? Of course it does. I am her example. And she would recommend everyone to give themselves the opportunity to try it alone, not mixed, and enjoy it as we do with many other things.
Jassil Villanueva, on his recent visit to Madrid.
Throughout the conversation Jassil talks about that woman's hand,
development
and change, how is it done in an industry that seems ancestral? "The rum masters are experimenting,
playing
, with the different types of barrels, woods and the different skills that we have. Basically, we are always seeing how we can go further, considering options. Then we discuss them, to work on them better together. all. Some
ideas
come to fruition, others are simply put on a waiting list and others we understand that they are not in line with what we want to continue transmitting and we discard them. In reality we are thinking about this all the time,
working
, without caring that it is not See, to make sure that we are going to continue to grow for the next five or ten years. The latest, a new aromatic
toasting
technique where they infuse the wood with
cocoa
, "a highly indigenous ingredient," she tells us, and
caramelize
the inside of the barrels. "There is a lot of magic, and a lot of people, hundreds of people, behind each bottle, I am just the face of all that."
Listening to her, I deduce that being a rum master is a 24-hour job. Definitely, with every food experience, with every drink, with every cocktail, things occur to us. But you will also have a normal working day...Yes. For me, a normal day in the Dominican Republic, what I call an office day, begins in the wineries, to test samples of the different liquids and based on the results, create the work agenda. I really like that part of the office where we see how different combinations give completely different results. Give us some master classes, teach us how to drink rum, how do you drink a good one?" If it is a complex one, aged, a premium product, alone, with a ice cube and good company, nothing else is needed. And what is the main mistake we make? What should we not mix it with? Wow..., I couldn't say, I've seen everything... [jokes]. Will we soon see rum menus in Spain, in the style of the gin ones? It seems that this one has taken over... Let's hope so, that it will be soon. Worldwide, rum is no longer seen as something to drink mixed. We have many options, from appreciating the characteristics of the liquid alone to highly elaborate cocktails or classic cocktails with a twist. Does the blacksmith and the wooden spoon rule in your house? Is there anything at your family gatherings that doesn't? Is it rum on the table? No, nothing. We are faithful consumers of what we have worked with so much love for.
Among his future plans, Jassil Villanueva does not contemplate anything other than "continuing to represent the family, continue the legacy and transmit his knowledge to the following generations. Again, as at the beginning, "a great responsibility, but at the same time a pride ". On the horizon, as
successor
, one of his two children. "They are still very young, but I would love to. I understand that they have potential, one of them already knows how to identify many
aromas
, he has a very good
sense of smell
." And he meets the first requirement, he carries the family name.
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