Gema García Marcos

Updated Monday, February 19, 2024-04:07

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We owe collagen that fresh and juicy appearance that our skin looks during youth. And also the elasticity and fluidity of our movements. "Collagen is a protein present in our skin and in our tissues,

responsible for maintaining their support and elasticity

. Thanks to the action of collagen, the skin remains firm, hydrated and protected against external agents," says Alba Calleja, dermatologist expert in aesthetics at the Doctor Morales Raya Clinic.

"It is the protein that

gives structure and support to the skin, keeping it firm

. It also maintains its elasticity and hydrates it by attracting hyaluronic acid. It also plays a very important role in

wound healing and tissue breakdown (stretch marks

). In addition,

it strengthens and stimulates the growth of hair and nails

," adds Marta García, facialist and founder of the clinic that bears her name in Oviedo.

The bad news is that,

from the age of 25, we begin to lose around 1.5 and 2% of collagen per year

. That is, at 50, production is reduced by 30%. And that's where it all begins: "When protein synthesis decreases, a loss of volume begins to appear in the tissues and a look of fatigue begins to be noticed (which until now was not seen) and,

at this moment or even a little earlier, it is necessary to start stimulating cell renewal processes and reactivate their production

, to avoid the appearance of wrinkles, loss of elasticity, premature aging and sagging," says García,

What can be done (if anything) to push our body to resume collagen production? The first thing we should talk about is the fashionable supplementation. "

Oral collagen supplementation

is a topic on which a lot of research is currently being done. There are multiple preparations of hydrolyzed collagen obtained from various sources (generally, foods), which are absorbed at the intestinal level, ultimately depositing in the skin. However, However, there are doubts as to whether its absorption level is sufficient to stimulate collagen synthesis at the skin level. It is true that, although in several clinical trials it has been possible to observe an increase in skin elasticity and a decrease in wrinkles after taking oral collagen for 8-12 weeks, it should be noted that these studies have certain limitations.

More scientific literature

on the subject is still needed to make sure in which cases it is useful to take it," clarifies Dr. Calleja.

Marta García, for her part, clarifies the issue of supplementation: "The type of collagen recommended to restore the skin is

hydrolyzed marine collagen

, which is type I and is presented in the form of bioactive peptides for better assimilation, it has great purity and is 100% natural and safe. However, it is important to emphasize that

taking collagen is not enough

. Precursors and micronutrients associated with collagen formation should also be taken into account, such as zinc, vitamin C or D. ...".

In this scenario, food is key. We already know that foods, such as tripe or the very popular bone broths, are supposed to help us produce collagen, but what is the truth in all this? "It is true that the

majority of collagen preparations on the market are extracted from foods

(fish, poultry, etc.) and that we cannot deny that in a broth prepared from bones we can find collagen. However, the concentration is much higher in oral collagen preparations," clarifies Dr. Calleja.

This specialist also clarifies to us the extent to which

cosmetics

helps us in this mission. "There are multiple cosmetics that contain collagen that increase the elasticity and hydration of the skin, improving the appearance of its most superficial layers, although it is important to emphasize that

its effect at a deeper level is null

. "

On the other hand, Calleja continues, "today there are several treatments performed in clinics, capable of stimulating collagen production at a deeper level." What treatment are we talking about? "Among the injectable materials, we have

calcium hydroxyapatite

, a material that contains calcium spheres that stimulate collagen synthesis, reducing sagging."

If we talk about devices, "

radiofrequency

is capable of improving the firmness of the skin and tissues at a deeper level while focused ultrasound allows us to directly visualize where we deposit the energy to generate skin tightening."

In addition, "certain

lasers with ablative capacity

through heat deposited in the deepest layers of the skin produce a tightening effect, reducing skin laxity."

MOST EFFECTIVE AESTHETIC TREATMENTS

What would be, according to Ana Rodríguez-Villa, dermatologist and director of the Aesthetic Medicine Unit at the Ricart Medical Institute, the star treatments to induce collagen production? "Among the products with the ability to stimulate new production of collagen and elastin fibers, I choose hydroxyapatite

(CaHa

). The reasons? There are other collagen inducers on the market, but it has been proven that hydroxyapatite produces

collagen. regenerating, more orderly, more

physiological

, less scarring

and, above all,

with less inflammatory reaction

than other inducers."

But there is still more. "Apparatus also has a very interesting role in stimulating collagen synthesis. MFV-US

(

Ultherapy

)

allows energy to be deposited in the layer of skin and facial soft tissue, which we call SMAS, which over time As the years go by, it loses tension. By stimulating that specific layer with microbeams of energy, we will generate small microscopic wounds that, after being repaired, will produce a

notable improvement in sagging after its application

, although it is true that it is a process that requires time and its "Optimal results are not immediate or evaluable until

four to six months have elapsed

after the protocol has been carried out."

For Rodríguez-Villa, the ideal treatment would be a combination of the previous two. "There is a lot of scientific evidence that shows how, if we use both together

, the amount of new collagen and elastin fibers that are produced is much greater

. It is as if you primed the skin, gave it the necessary food to generate new fibers. and, on top of that, you will stimulate it with an 'echo-guided' reinforcement so that this collagen works in the layers that interest us more effectively," he concludes.