ISABEL GARCÍA Aragon
Aragon
Updated Thursday, February 15, 2024-00:07
Teruel Matarraña, the hidden treasure of emptied Spain (and why they call it Aragonese Tuscany)
Tourism The destinations that will be talked about in 2024 (and that you will want to visit)
Many dedicated themselves body and soul to handcrafting the paper for the decks of Mr.
Heraclio Fournier,
the
most famous
creator of playing cards
in the world. Others, to the banknotes distributed by the State. Or the
thread cardboard
of the engravings of Francisco de Goya himself. We are talking about the paper mills that lived their time of splendor between the 18th and 19th centuries in the Matarraña
region of
Teruel, a rural treasure hidden among castles, olive groves and vineyards in
emptied Spain
that is worth discovering without haste.
The majority were found in the town of Beceite, with a medieval air,
ancestral palaces,
Gothic churches, flowery balconies and excessive charm, which makes it one of the most beautiful in Spain along with others such as Calaceite or Valderrobres, the capital of the place. Well, there were
nine factories in the municipality
(and 13 in the area), distributed along the banks of the Matarraña River, whose waters were used to move the wheels through canals, ditches and tunnels, managing to transform cotton cloth into excellent quality
paper
.
The best in Spain, the chronicles say.
Facade of the Teruel hotel.
The
last factories
remained in operation until the 70s of the last century. Many have disappeared or are in ruins, while some have been converted into charming hotels (a lot) where the echoes of the painter from Fuentedetodos resonate around the corners. As an example we have
La Fábrica de Solfa
, with a careful design, with some avant-garde touch and
only eight rooms,
each one more pleasant. All of them have been exquisitely renovated, maintaining the
thick stone walls,
the hydraulic floors and the original
wooden beamed ceilings, with
sloping ceilings in some cases. And be careful, none of them have television. Here you come to disconnect, to enjoy the place, to live and learn without rushing.
One of the rooms at La Fábrica de Solfa.
Each is named after one of the old factories that flourished along the river. From Cremada to Martí, Molí del Toscá,
Noguera, Morató or Pont Nou.
The history of paper is told through illustrations, old photos or newspaper clippings in the
cozy library-living room
with fireplace on the first floor, the entrance, or on the lowest floor, where the
restaurant's dining room is located with views.
to the beautiful Beceite bridge, decorated with paintings (or sculptures, engravings, illustrations, jewelry...) from
temporary exhibitions by local artists
. Or not.
The bridge over the Matarraña river and the old town behind.
The brothers Alberto and Javier Moragrega,
natives of the municipality and owners of the accommodation , were responsible for rescuing the memory of those buildings (and by extension, of the town, the region and their ancestors)
, who were determined to give life (and employment) to the municipality. after an arduous rehabilitation process. "
Benedict
_
_
_ if it is related to the beautiful
Matarraña
. This is the first reference to the factories in the town.
The Moragrega brothers, founders of the hotel, along with the chefs.
In addition to the calm that La Fábrica de Solfa transmits, another of its strong points is its restaurant with
a Sol Repsol,
led by the Aragonese chef
Enrique Micolau
, who carries out "modern and daring cuisine based on tradition", a motto that he himself attests. "We offer traditional recipes from the region complemented by international cuisine dishes and
our own creations
, but always with seasonal and local ingredients," explains Micolau. "All the food is
local,
they have traveled little, less than 100 kilometers," Javier adds in the living room.
Establishment restaurant with a Sol Repsol.
As examples, the hams from the Teruel Designation of Origin stand out (such as those from
Peñarroya,
which cures the pieces in an artisanal way as in the past), the
artisanal goat's milk cheeses
(such as those from La Freixneda and L'Escresola) or the table olives. There is also no shortage of extra virgin olive oil from the
Bajo Aragón DO
(from Mas dels Castellans to Diezdedos or Démeter de Tastavins), Monroyo truffle (both black, white or summer) or wines, with innovative wineries such as
Venta D'Aubert, Lagar de Amprius, Mas de Torubio, Bayod Borrás or Mussols.
In fact, those who are not staying and want to enjoy lunch or dinner can drink without problem, since the Moragrega brothers are in charge of picking up and returning the diners to their homes (or other accommodations).
The classic 'fesols' (beans) of the area.
All these native products are the stars of the
special menus
(vegan included) at La Fábrica de Solfa, which change depending on the time of year. The
Identity one,
for example, does not leave anyone indifferent with dishes such as
chickpeas with capers and sardines
, the brain, honey and mustard croquette, the classic
fesols
(beans) with cockscomb and almond and the eel with Beseit boletus,
foie
and dewlap or
duck with barley, coffee and anise.
For dessert, you must try the white chocolate with yuzu, pistachio and mostillo or the fried
fesols
milk (yes, you can also have sweet ones) and carob chocolate.
Panoramic of the town of Beceite.
All that remains is to know the territory. And that's what Alberto and Javi are also here for, since they have also founded an agency for tourist activities and experiences in the region, Senda, focused on "
intelligent
and
slow travel
tourism that allows you to calmly enjoy the landscape,
cultural heritage and gastronomy
," says Alberto. For this, they offer a thousand and one proposals. From guided routes through the main towns in the area (Calaceite, Valderrobres, La Fresneda, Cretas...) to
canyoning, caving, zip line descent
or horseback riding, hot air balloon rides or 4x4.
Medieval streets in Beceite.
There is also the option of
hiking
through the Parrizal area between canyons, walkways and even cave paintings or through the
Masmut Rocks,
a massif of vertical walls more than 100 meters high. Without forgetting
the visits (and tastings) to wineries
or oil mills (here called mills)... Does anyone give more?
Hiking route through Parrizal.
More information. Hotel La Fábrica de Solfa.
Arrabal del Puente 16, Beceite (Teruel). Tel: 978 85 07 56. Internet: www.fabricadesolfa.com
Senda
tourist services agency
: www.websenda.com
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