What do you think of the new Chinese-style dress codes and taboos?
There are different styles and customs in thousands of miles. It is worth promoting to enjoy the beauty of clothing, and it is also necessary to popularize appropriate traditional knowledge.
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In traditional clothing, buttons were not always present. Ancient people often used two ropes or ribbons to tie knots. It was not until the Yuan Dynasty that round-headed buttons appeared.
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"Hand collar and right collar" is a style that has been maintained steadily during the reform and transformation of Hanfu. This is related to the ancient theory of yin and yang, "the left represents heaven as yang, and the right represents earth as yin."
As the Spring Festival approaches, many people are buying new Chinese-style clothing, but the popular science about "new Chinese-style dress is important" circulating on the Internet has frightened consumers. Many people solemnly introduce that in traditional clothing, odd numbers of buttons are lucky and even numbers are unlucky. Some consumers even deliberately cut off the buttons of newly purchased clothes to make them into odd numbers.
Is it really so particular?
Do not judge bad luck based on odd or even numbers
With the popularity of "new Chinese-style" New Year's wear, topics such as New Year's wear taboos have once again attracted attention on social media. A few days ago, a new Chinese-style dress posted by a certain anchor in the live broadcast room caused controversy. The dress had even-numbered buttons and was criticized by many people for "not respecting traditional culture at all."
In fact, buttons in traditional clothing did not exist from the beginning. Fang Yun, a researcher at the Intangible Cultural Heritage Theory and Application Research Center of Shanghai Vocational College of Arts and Crafts, said that ancient people often used two ropes or ribbons to tie knots. It was not until the Yuan Dynasty that round-headed buttons appeared. After the development of the Ming Dynasty, it was not until the Qing Dynasty that buttons became popular.
Is it, as many netizens say, that wearing clothes with an even number of buttons breaks the rules? Fang Yun introduced that some areas of the folk believe that the number of buttons on clothes cannot be even, because there are sayings that "four or six do not make sense" and "four or six do not make a difference." "Chinese people have indeed had the concept and worship of numbers since ancient times, but we cannot simply say that odd numbers are good and even numbers are bad. During the evolution of Chinese clothing over the past dynasties, the shape and number of buttons have been changing, and there is no evidence that they are fixed to odd numbers. Or even numbers.”
As for the controversy over left and right gussets in clothing, it also needs to be understood within the concept of traditional shapes.
Fang Yun introduced that the shape of ancient Chinese clothing is mostly in the form of a collar with the chest and a lapel, which is the lapel. The left front lapel covers the right armpit and ties, and the right lapel is covered inside, which is called the right lapel. The opposite is called the left lapel.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the "left gusset" and "right gusset" of clothing became a significant symbol for people to distinguish between different regions and different nationalities. For example, "The Analects of Confucius·Xianwen": "Wei Guanzhong, I was sent to the left fold." "Warring States Policy·Zhao Ce 2": "Being sent, tattooed, cross-arm, left fold, are the people of Ouyue." It can be seen that. , "right gusset" is an important symbol of Chinese national costumes in the Central Plains, while "left gusset" has become a clothing feature of some ethnic minorities.
"Hand collar and right lapel" is a style that has been maintained stably in the improvement and reform of Hanfu. This is related to the ancient theory of yin and yang. "The left is heaven as yang, and the right is earth as yin." Following the laws of nature, the left lapel covers the right lapel, and heaven and earth are harmonious. Yang is on top, earth and yin are on the bottom. There is this text in "Book of Rites·Mourning Notes": "The small lace is large and the sacrificial robe does not fall down. They are all left gusseted, and the knot is not knotted." This means that the living person holds the right gusset for easy untying with the right hand; the deceased Hand over the left lapel, never untie it, and rest in peace from now on. However, at that time, the clothes of the deceased did not use cloth buttons, but fine cloth belts.
"From the perspective of the shape of Hanfu, there are clear records about the left and right gussets, which can be discussed, but only from the perspective of taboos. There are different styles in hundreds of miles, and different customs in thousands of miles." In Fang Yun's view, modern clothing regulations are not so strict. , especially the new Chinese style has a sense of innovation in design and does not need to imitate the ancient times.
"Actually, most people just like the style, pattern or shape of the dress." Regarding whether to pay attention to shape and taboos when dressing, TV drama styling director Wang Haiting believes that people have different opinions, and enjoying the beauty of clothing is also worth promoting.
Just dress to show your beauty
Fang Yun suggested that when people buy new Chinese-style clothing, they should focus on beauty and practicality and not be bound by old ideas. "With the advancement of science and technology, the number of buttons on clothes is gradually decreasing. Some clothes don't even need buttons to stay fixed." The emergence of this technology not only simplifies the way of wearing, but also provides more fashion options.”
However, in Wang Haiting's view, it is also necessary to popularize appropriate science or traditional knowledge on traditional costumes in film, television dramas or mass media. For example, when it comes to the styling design of costume dramas, the basic form specifications must follow the background of the era and cannot erase the clothing characteristics of the era. She said that for ordinary people's clothing, as long as they like it or can show their beauty. “It is also a good phenomenon if you are interested in Hanfu or new Chinese style and have a deeper understanding of clothing forms.”
Liberation Daily reporter Zhong Han Zhang Yi