"No regrets, saving people is more important!" In order to save people, two climbers gave up climbing Mount Everest

Recently, two Chinese climbers were climbing Mount Everest when they found a female climber in distress at an altitude of 8450,400 meters. When they still had the physical strength to hit the peak and were less than 5 meters away from the peak, the two gave up their plans to climb the summit and chose something more important than climbing Mount Everest - saving people. After more than four hours of rescue, the two finally rescued the dying climber safely to the camp. The two climbers who rescued people were named Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang, both belonging to the Hunan mountaineering team. On May 25, in an interview with a reporter from the Yangtze Evening News Purple Cow News, Xie Ruxiang said that after seeing that the victim was in urgent need of rescue, he did not hesitate and immediately decided to give up the summit, and promised to give Sherpa's guide an additional rescue fee of 4,<> US dollars, "Regardless of the final outcome, just send her to Camp C<>." For not reaching the summit, the two said, "After giving up the dream for many years, I may never have the opportunity to realize it in the future, but I don't regret it, because saving people is more important than climbing Mount Everest." ”

1 I heard someone was killed before climbing to the top During the climb, I encountered a person in distress

On the evening of May 5, Xie Ruxiang, a member of the Hunan mountaineering team who had not yet begun to reach the summit, heard the news from the mountain, "saying that two Chinese were killed, and hearing that Chen Xuebin died on the morning of the 18th, because he knew me well, and I felt very uncomfortable." ”

Xie Ruxiang did not give up the idea of climbing to the top, "We were mentally prepared long before we boarded. ”

Xie Ruxiang, 54 years old this year, as an 87-level geology student of Peking University, he was the founding member of the famous Peking University Mountain Eagle Club, and in 1990, as the captain, he led the first and first Chinese folk mountaineering team to complete the maiden climb of the Mountain Eagle Club (climbing the Yuzhu Peak in Qinghai at an altitude of 6178,<> meters). Since the nineties of the last century, he has dreamed of climbing Mount Everest, and this time he is about to reach the top, but in order to save people, he resolutely chose to give up.

Xie Ruxiang told reporters that Fan Jiangtao, the leader of the Hunan mountaineering team, met himself during the process of helping female climbers in distress to retreat, "Old Fan cried when he saw me, he said he couldn't save it, she might have a breath left." They probably withdrew for more than an hour, and they couldn't move. The altitude is more than 8000,<> meters, don't talk about saving people, you feel tired with a bottle of water, not to mention that you still pick up someone, that person has lost mobility. ”

Fan Jiangtao, 39 years old this year, recalled that at about 5:18 p.m. on May 8, his group climbed to an altitude of more than 20,8400 meters on Mount Everest and saw a person lying there, chained to a rope, "That person was not wearing gloves on his right hand, his hands were already black, and his left hand was wearing thin fleece gloves, and he did not see down gloves." The whole person trembled, lying down to the right and shrinking into a ball, and even the body suit was also seriously damaged. ”

"I asked my teammates to go up first and I was watching the situation where I was." Fan Jiangtao found that the Sherpa guide beside the climber had disappeared long ago, "Her Sherpa guide should have given up on her and went down first." (Sherpas refer to the native inhabitants of Mount Everest, have natural "altitude adaptability" and are known as the best climbing guides in the world.) )

Seeing the situation, Fan Jiangtao leaned closer and asked, "Are you Chinese?" Seeing that the other party did not respond, he tried to ask again: "What's your name?" The man slowly said his surname was Liu in a Hunan dialect. After examination, Fan Jiangtao found that she had run out of oxygen, her face had been covered with thin ice, her hands were frostbitten, and her vital signs were weak.

2 Give up climbing to the top to save the person in distress When helpless, meet teammates and work together to save people

"At that time, my Sherpa guide began to urge me to climb up, and I hesitantly climbed up for more than 20 meters at first, and then simply stopped there and told him that I was not going to climb to the top, I was going back to save people." Fan Jiangtao's idea was opposed by Sherpa's guide, "He said that the woman was dead and did not need to be saved, but I had strengthened my determination to save people and began to move downward, and I kept giving affirmative answers in Sherpa's repeated inquiries." In the process of moving down, Fan Jiangtao's emotions were very emotional when he thought of giving up the summit to save people.

After retreating to Ms. Liu, the victim in distress, Fan Jiangtao began to change her oxygen, feed her hot water, sugar, chocolate, massage her hands and feet, do cardiac resuscitation, and help her unlock the locked descendant. After Ms. Liu regained her ability to express, she said that she was in her forties, and she and Sherpa's guide had no water at noon that day, and she did not know when oxygen was gone, nor did she know when Sherpa disappeared.

Until Ms. Liu had some physical strength, Fan Jiangtao and Sherpa's guide carried her down together. When she retreated one or two hundred meters, Ms. Liu fell unconscious again and fell on the side of the road and could not move. At that time, Fan Jiangtao felt a little frustrated, "At that altitude, I would feel tired with a bottle of water, and at that time, due to the limited physical strength and resources of Sherpa and I, I really couldn't move." I had to put her on a stone slab next to the main rope, give her some oxygen, and then go down first to call for help. ”

At that time, Fan Jiangtao did not know that Xie Ruxiang and his party had set off, and it was not until he withdrew about 30 meters that he met Xie Ruxiang, who set off late.

After Xie Ruxiang came to Ms. Liu's side, he saw that she still had some weak reactions, so he hurriedly brought her the hot water he brought for her to drink. "I asked her to go with us, but she said she couldn't walk anymore and just wanted to lie here, and I thought that her consciousness might be very blurry, so I kept encouraging her." Xie Ruxiang said that he did not hesitate too much at that time, and immediately decided to give up the summit, and promised to give Sherpa's guide an additional 10,000 US dollars for rescue, "If you don't save her, she will inevitably die, and if you save her, she will live." ”

Xie Ruxiang said, "The success of this rescue is also due to the fact that my Sherpa guide is tall and strong, and his physical strength exceeds that of ordinary Sherpa guides. After retreating to successfully rendezvous with Fan Jiangtao, the three of them carried Ms. Liu back to Camp C4 without risk, and it was already 19 a.m. on the 1th.

Xie Ruxiang told reporters that Ms. Liu's body had recovered that night, "she was a little 'fragmented', and she was not very clear about her rescue." She said through a friend that she wanted to thank us and have a meal together, and we replied to her to take care of her body first, and the rest later. ”

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Everest "traffic jam"? In fact, the situation is not so exaggerated

Climbing Mount Everest is a sport that both "burns money" and takes time. The cycle of climbing Mount Everest is long, about a month and a half. There are usually two routes, the north slope and the south slope, the northern slope route is simple, but the cost is higher and the registration conditions are more demanding, so most people will choose the south slope. As for the climbing cost, Xie Ruxiang told reporters that it will cost about 4.5 million yuan to climb Mount Everest from the southern slope.

Currently, climbing Mount Everest has become such a craze that it is overly commercialized. In the mountaineering world, there is even a famous saying: "As long as the money is in place, Sherpa guides can carry you up Mount Everest". Xie Ruxiang said that this situation is impossible, "The southern climbing industry has always been relatively mature, each climber is only equipped with one Sherpa guide, if you ask for two Sherpa guides, you have to pay 10,<> yuan more." ”

Xie Ruxiang told reporters that the number of people who climbed the peak this year is indeed the largest, the highest in history, "There are 478 people registered to climb Mount Everest this year, and among these applicants, Chinese is the largest, with more than 90 people." ”

Regarding the "traffic jam" in climbing Mount Everest on the Internet, Fan Jiangtao said, "In fact, the situation is not so exaggerated, because the window for climbing the peak this year is relatively long, and there is no situation of being stuck on the mountain." ”

Due to the fact that a large number of amateur mountaineers do not master mountaineering skills well, they only rely on mountaineering guides and overestimate their physical condition, resulting in frequent accidents in recent years. So far, this spring climbing season, 10 people have been killed and 2 missing on Mount Everest.

On May 5, Chinese climber Chen Xuebin was killed while climbing Mount Everest. Some people say that above 18,8000 meters above sea level, it is normal and understandable that there is no way to help. "Chen Xuebin had an accident at an altitude of 8600,<> meters, and many people did not save him because they did not have that condition, they had no oxygen and no physical strength. Lao Fan and I had extra oxygen in our hands at the time, we haven't reached the top yet, and if we meet her when we retreat after reaching the top, I don't have the strength to save it. ”

At present, the body of Chen Xuebin, the mountaineer killed on Mount Everest, is still left in the ice and snow on the southern slope of Mount Everest. The window period for climbing Mount Everest is only the last few days, and after the window period, it will only wait for next year. Fan Jiangtao, who had been with Chen Xuebin's team, revealed to reporters, "On May 5, 25-6 Sherpa guides had gone up to transport the remains, and the estimated cost was about 8 million yuan, when Chen Xuebin bought the same insurance as us, and the cost of transporting the remains in the insured amount was 200.150 million, which should cover most of it." ”

Will Everest be climbed again? Xie Ruxiang thought for a moment and said: "Mountaineering is also about fate, this time let us meet someone, maybe Everest does not want us to climb to the top!" Wait and see, after all, hundreds of thousands is not a small number, all aspects must be taken into account. ”

Purple Cow News trainee reporter Xu Shaoda reporter Wan Huijuan