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A picture is worth a thousand words and, in the case of fashion, a logo says it all, or maybe not? The luxury that has traditionally been associated with ostentation has an adversary that is called silent luxury, an irony because it is now on everyone's lips. The premiere of the fourth season of the series 'Succession' gives a good example of this through a sober wardrobe (devised by Michelle Matland), devoid of logos and 'bling bling'. This fiction is radically opposed to the second season of the documentary by Georgina Rodríguez ('Soy Georgina'), released on March 24, in which Cristiano Ronaldo's wife collects Hermès bags (specifically the Birkin model) as if they were trading cards.

Still from the documentary 'Soy Georgina'Netflix

Mark Zuckerberg is one of his great followers and is that the shirts worn by the founder of Facebook cost 350 euros, each! Of course, they have been made in Italy with the most exquisite material and, despite being a basic garment, the brand to which they are ascribed, Brunello Cucinelli, is defined by its excellence. And how to forget the black-necked sweater, designed by Issey Miyake, with which the co-founder and executive chairman of Apple, Steve Jobs, shaped his distinctive style of dress. That is precisely what this new trend refers to, to those apparently simple garments, because they do not have any logo or detail characteristic of a specific firm, but whose cornerstone is quality. Faced with the excess of logomania prevailing in past collections of firms such as Chanel, Balenciaga or Gucci, silent luxury has become a trend this 2023.

How does silent luxury come about?

While it is true that this trend has become relevant lately thanks to its boom in social networks, especially TikTok, where fashion prescribers have given the keys to join this movement, Spanish author fashion firms have advocated this philosophy since its inception. Modesto Lomba, president of the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain and creative director of Devota & Lomba, affirms that "Spanish fashion, and specifically that of author, is based on craftsmanship and creation. We handle the same concept of French Haute Couture but calling it differently. This entails the care of the crafts and the knowledge of the trades through a creator, it is a concept of luxury different from logomania".

But what does this form of luxury really consist of in its less 'garish' facet? It could be defined as a new lifestyle whose goal is not the demonstration of a certain status, but the pursuit of excellence. This is how, in the face of the maximalism proposed by firms that choose to flaunt all kinds of logos, less is more is imposed on a series of brands whose proposal is to raise exclusivity to the next level through neutral and timeless pieces. Only consumers of the brand, or connoisseurs, will be able to distinguish its true value.

A return to the original values

Due to democratization and 'masstige' (a concept that comes from the union of 'mass market' and 'prestige'), luxury has infiltrated the middle class with massive products from renowned firms, mostly perfumes and accessories such as sunglasses, which create that false sense of exclusivity. That is why the most authentic has found other ways to recover its original essence, which is none other than differentiation, and safeguard the sublimity that this more accessible trend has tried to snatch in pursuit of an increase in sales.

Susana Campuzano, CEO of Luxury Advise and director of the Direction and Strategic Management program of the luxury universe at IE Business School, says: "It goes by many names: silent luxury, 'timeless', new luxury, authentic or monastic; But in the end it is based on an aesthetic that introduces contemporary and authentic contents, such as sustainability, craftsmanship and manual work. This trend seeks to make a difference with respect to 'consumerist' luxury and is imposed to vindicate the values that it is forgetting, such as reflection, personal development, timelessness and quality understood as the struggle for craftsmanship and unique fabrics. In short, the authentic values of luxury. Instead of showing the shine through the logo, it does so with a natural, unbranded cotton, as a code of recognition among connoisseurs."

Silent luxury signatures you should have on your radar

Loro Piana is one of the reference brands when it comes to this new luxury. Of Italian origin, the firm specializes in cashmere garments that are acclaimed throughout the world.

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The aforementioned Brunello Cucinelli is also an emblem of this more discreet current, yes, of great quality. Like Loro Piana, it is of Italian origin and known for its exquisite cashmere pieces.

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The Row, the firm founded by Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen in 2006, focuses on the quality of its fabrics and an impeccable manufacture of its garments.

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At the national level we find Bleis Madrid, known for its quality women's tailoring.

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How can you join this trend?

There are ways to join the trend of silent luxury without ruining yourself in the attempt. While it is true that the firms mentioned above create pieces of the highest quality, they are not suitable for all budgets. It should be noted that silent luxury is also closely linked to basic and timeless garments such as monochromatic shirts, jacket suits and cashmere sweaters, garments traditionally cataloged as wardrobe background, so this facilitates the creation of some looks that follow this aesthetic.

Linen suit trousers (39.99 euros)MANGO

Suit pants are a classic in any self-respecting wardrobe background, perfect for going to the office or even to create informal looks. These Mango in combination with a vest and a 'blazer', all of the same color, are perfect to create an 'old money' styling.

Flowing button-down shirt (25.99 euros)MANGO

Due to its versatility and comfort, a white shirt, like this one from Mango, is an essential basic in every capsule wardrobe, as well as being ideal for creating silent luxury looks given its sober and sophisticated character.

Knitted cardigan neck spike buttons (69.95 euros)MASSIMO DUTTI

Neutral tones help create this refined aesthetic, as well as knitwear that is another essential basic. This cardigan by Massimo Dutti in combination with white trousers will help you join this new trend of simpler luxury.

Oversize cross blazer (39.95 euros)ZARA

Finally, you must get a 'blazer'. This Zara in khaki color will solve more than one look and fits perfectly with the proposed aesthetics.

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