Clean glasses are no longer available, but all return containers, commonly known as spits, are full.

The staff at the Chinese booth at ProWein are very friendly but don't seem to do this type of work very often.

It feels like an eternity when opening the bottle, until the tin capsule covering the cork is removed, the spiral of the corkscrew is drilled in and the cork is pulled out.

The scene from the trade fair in Düsseldorf in May shows that there is still room for improvement.

No wonder, since the wine country of China is still largely unknown in this country.

According to the International Organization for Vine and Wine, the most populous country on earth pressed 5.9 million hectoliters of wine last year.

So an average of about 0.4 liters per inhabitant.

It is true that the annual consumption of wine in China is extremely low at just one bottle per capita – in Germany an average of 32 wine bottles were uncorked.

However, just to close this small gap between demand and production, China already has to import large quantities of wine.

Not much is therefore exported, especially in Germany Chinese wines are very difficult to come by.

In order to judge whether that's a pity, you first have to get the opportunity to try it.

After all, those who actually have nothing to sell will rarely launch costly marketing campaigns in other countries.

In contrast to countries as far away as Australia, New Zealand or the United States, tastings of Chinese wines are rare here.

Not only because of Corona there was no offer for a long time.

This year, however, at Pro Wein, the world's most important industry fair, wineries from the Helan Mountains wine region - which is in the Ningxia region, quite far north in China on the Yellow River - displayed their products.

Only French grape varieties are good grape varieties

36 wines were to be shown, including only one white wine.

And it was over quickly.

Instead, red Bordeaux grape varieties dominated.

A glance at the tasting list showed that only French grape varieties are apparently good grape varieties.

There was a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Merlot, Syrah and Marselan.

And a Malbec: According to the tasting list, its name is written in Latin letters "Hongfangyin" and it comes from Château Rongyuanmei.

The Chinese lady at the stand holds the bottle at an angle for a long time before pouring it to examine the label.

This is so common with sommeliers, after all the guest wants to be sure that the right wine is being poured.

In this case, you just have to believe it, as the label only shows Chinese characters.

When the wine from the 2019 vintage is opaque cherry red in the glass, it smells very subtly of bushes and conifers and is juicy on the palate with pleasant tannins.

Next up is a Cabernet Sauvignon with a ten percent Merlot admixture, and unfortunately it's not a revelation: it's called "Shen Hua" and it comes from Château Castaly.

It smells rather strange, perfumed, with a hint of jasmine.

The wine burns on the palate and does not leave a good impression.

The Reserve Syrah from Château Copower Jade also smells very unusual and at least a bit like cherries.

The wine is powerful, well structured, but does not taste particularly good.

However, many of the reds are perfectly fine.

For example, the "Marselan Family Selection 2018" from Château Huahao, which is very much influenced by the wooden barrel.

Roasted aromas, dark berries, currant buds.

Some cherry on the palate too, a juicy wine with muscular tannins.

Marselan was bred in France in 1961 from the Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache varieties.

In China, a lot of attention is paid to the variety, and there is even a Marselan World Day on the French vine grower's birthday.

The Middle Kingdom now has the largest area of ​​vines planted with this variety outside of France.