Chinanews.com, Jiangmen, December 21st, title: Chefs in Taishan, Guangdong in winter "show their talents" and "Smelly Belly Fish" produce "fragrant"

　　Author Li Xiaochun Guo Jun

　　Recently, the weather in Guangdong has entered the "frozen" mode. Most of the seafood markets in coastal areas are frozen seafood. Although the fresh "stinky belly fish" are small in size, the chefs of the teahouse restaurants in Taishan City can "cross the sea with eight immortals, each showing their magical powers." ", cook it into a series of "fragrant" dishes to meet the needs of diners who pursue "freshness".

Ginger slices steamed and dried "Ni Meng" photo by Li Xiaochun

　　"Stinky belly fish", often called "nimeng" in Guangdong, likes to feed on seaweed, plankton and attachments in the sea. Its body surface is yellow-green or yellow-brown, and it is densely covered with white and small black spots. It has no scales. Thick meat, tender and delicious, low fat content, rich in protein, high nutritional value, regular consumption can enhance immunity, it is a small sea fish suitable for all ages.

Recently, the lowest temperature in Taishan, Guangdong was as low as 5 degrees Celsius, but it did not prevent locals from going to the market early in the morning to find fresh food.

Photo by Li Xiaochun

　　From looking for fresh food to eating fresh food, the coastal residents of Guangdong not only live on the sea, but also live in symbiosis with the sea.

In recent years, several towns along the coast of Taishan City have actively developed marine aquaculture while developing ocean fishing. Among them, the cage aquaculture industry in Chuandao Town has formed a certain scale.

Salt and pepper "mud fierce", a crispy and delicious appetizer photo by Li Xiaochun

　　"Although groupers are mainly raised in the cages here, the 'mudmen' in the nearby sea easily pass through the meshes and often go inside and outside the cages to look for food." Said a farmer at the Shadi Fishing Port on Shangchuan Island, Taishan. Fishing on the edge of the net cage, it is easy to catch small sea fish such as Nimeng, Jingu and Huangjiaoli.

　　Boiling raw soup with mud is the most common cooking method in restaurants in Taishan and even in Guangdong. The soup is clear and white, and exudes a faint fragrance of fish.

The raw baked miscellaneous fish stew cooked with "Ni Meng" and other small sea fish, when served on the table, it is fragrant and fragrant Photo by Li Xiaochun

　　"Although the mudmen in the fish pond are small in size, the raw soup they make is very sweet." Lin Weijie, the person in charge of the Iron Boat Restaurant in Chixi Town, Taishan, introduced that the restaurant's daily mudmen of more than 10 kilograms are basically sold out during the peak season. , When they order for guests, most of them will recommend choosing mashed winter melon soup, mashed tofu soup, etc., and they also suggest adding some coriander to season and enhance the flavor.

　　Diners who like to drink a little wine on weekdays have a special liking for the small sea fish with salt and pepper.

Mr. Hu, a native of Henan who works in Taishan, said that Taishan's coastal "pepper, salt and mud" is authentic, especially the slightly spicy, salty, and crispy taste, which is more in line with his taste, and it is his favorite seafood appetizer.

The boiled soup made with "Ni Meng" and tofu is a quick seafood soup commonly found in restaurants in Guangdong. Photo by Li Xiaochun

　　Fresh ingredients can easily stimulate the chef's culinary potential.

"Many diners like to eat our raw baked mixed fish stew. Some like to choose small sea fish with more meat and less thorns, such as yellow croaker, yellow croaker, pomfret, and fire point. Mixed together." The chef of Baixiaowei Fishing Farm in Chixi Town, Taishan revealed that the raw baked miscellaneous fish stew he cooked was mixed with a variety of small sea fish. meaning).

The plump "mud fierce" photo by Li Xiaochun

　　In Guangdong teahouse restaurants, Nimeng should be a niche seafood ingredient that is difficult to find elegant. It is often found in food stalls, seafood restaurants, etc., or cooking soup or porridge, but it can also be found in star-rated restaurants in Taishan. figure.

　　"We only use local fresh mud and keep it in the fish pond. The customers can see it directly. The staff next to the fish pond will take it out and weigh it according to the order placed by the customer, and then send it directly to the kitchen for processing and cooking." Taishan According to the manager of a four-star restaurant in Taicheng Street, the restaurant’s lobby has recently been promoting dishes such as soaking mud in salt water, steaming mud with black bean sauce, and steaming mud with tangerine peel.

"Nimeng" dried by drying at the open side Photo by Li Xiaochun

　　There is another way to eat Nimeng in Taishan, which is steaming Nimeng with ginger slices.

In the seafood market in Taishan, from time to time, there are dried fish with heads removed or sun-dried, which are widely favored by local people because of their firm flesh, no small thorns, and sweet taste.

　　"This batch of dried mud costs 100 yuan (RMB) per kilogram. When you buy it back, don't chop it into small pieces. Just rinse the whole piece and put it on a plate. Cut some thin slices or shreds of ginger and put it on the dried fish. Add peanut oil (you can add some light soy sauce) and then steam it in a wok.” Recently, the proprietress of a seafood shop in Fucheng Market, Taicheng Street, Taishan told customers that the steamed mud should be dried and eaten, which is very delicious.

Tangerine peel steamed "mud fierce" photo by Li Xiaochun

　　Ni Meng, very common and inconspicuous, has long been integrated into the three meals a day of the local people in Taishan, leaving only a similar home-cooked taste between their lips and teeth.

There is no distinction between high and low in the ingredients themselves, and it is unique to be able to "turn rot into magic" from ordinary ingredients.

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