A chef from Jerusalem gives tourists a taste of Palestinian life

Bukhari is descended from Sufis who marched to Jerusalem from Bukhara in Uzbekistan 400 years ago.

Reuters

Palestinian chef Ezzedine Bukhari begins tours of Jerusalem's Old City with an iftar meal at Hummus Abu Shukri, which he says serves the perfect balance of its ingredients: chickpeas, tahini and lemon juice.

“Palestinian cuisine really uses what the land has to offer,” Bukhari says, explaining that recipes that rely heavily on cultivated materials are closely tied to local produce.

Descended from Sufis who walked to Jerusalem from Bukhara in Uzbekistan 400 years ago, Bukhari takes visitors through the narrow streets of the old city to food stalls and restaurants, telling stories of recipes dating back thousands of years.

For Palestinians who live in the complex and often tense political environment of East Jerusalem, which includes the Old City with its walls and the holy sites of the three monotheistic religions, food is a major part of their cultural identity.

The stories behind them open up avenues for speaking about the broader Palestinian culture.

Bukhari explains that the plate of egg rolls is not only food, as it is a social activity that brings people together in the evening.

Even the simple dish of hummus served for breakfast has found itself at the center of heated debates over whether it is a Palestinian or a Jewish dish.

"This gives me a way to talk about Palestine and the culture of Palestine through food," Bukhari said.

And the conversation about food turns into an introduction to a city that has witnessed changes over generations.

In a spice shop, Bukhari explains, rice was once considered a rare delicacy, used discreetly or as a way to garnish other grain dishes.

Palestinians mostly use other grains in their food, such as freekeh.

"Politics in our region is a big part of daily conversations, so to have something different that focuses on culture is unique and people enjoy it too," Bukhari said.

Ezzedine Bukhari:

• "Palestinian cuisine really uses what the land has to offer."

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