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Highlighting the chest has become the latest obsession for designers and

generation Z

, who no longer need the bra as something mandatory but as a pure accessory, pure

aesthetics

.

So it is not so strange that the chest is once again covered with flowers in Loewe

's spring-summer 2023 collection

.

Well, rather, from a single flower.

The giant

Anthurium

that came out of the tunnel through which the models emerged was a preview of what was going to happen under the light and heat of the sun multiplied by the glass: the

flowers

were going to fill everything.

But the first and most striking were the

rigid tops

in the shape of pointed red leaves.

They aren't really tops at all, though they do

wrap

around the body with a

stem

: they're stiffer than such garments are often thought to be.

But they are not

corsets

either , because they are far from the piece intended to highlight the female figure.

They are, quite simply,

gigantic anthuriums

that cover the chest as if we were suddenly in the

Garden of Eden

and sin was newly released but there was still some innocence floating in the air.

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This idea also seems to be very present in another of the most outstanding

pieces

, or at least, the one that has been repeated the most, in the parade: the mini-

dresses

with a polo neck.

There were many, many dresses with skirts so minimal that underwear peeked out, like the first dresses that some mothers put on their babies or like some

miniskirts

in the 60s. The negative connotations of the infantilization of women and their sexualization at the same time can get to swarm around (wow, schoolgirl uniforms are

sexy

), but that depends a lot on how whoever interprets the dress is wired.

So let's just stick with them being well cut, flattering and playful, especially on

point .

of intense colors (the stripes, perhaps, go from being naive).

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complicated candidness

Some innocence is also sensed in a couple of

sweatshirts

that seem to have pixels in their seams and that are accompanied by

baggy pants

(maybe the most sophisticated gamer uniform ever made), or in the trench coats and short

Barbours

(all had to be short) and English;

nod to the origins of

Jonathan Anderson

and, why not, to the late queen.

But that

candidness

became more complicated in dresses with peaked necklines;

cliffs, danger warnings hidden in beauty.

After all, Anthurium is poisonous.

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The ups and downs of the

necklines

have also given rise to

tops

(this time yes) that rose rounded to almost hide the models' faces, in a new game that tests the limits of the

body

, of flattering.

Anderson appears to be groping, like performance artists adding permanent

prosthetics

to her body.

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For several seasons now,

Anderson

and

Loewe

have become synonymous with proposals that drink from

surrealism

and the ready-made, even, especially when it comes to nail polish, balloons or, as in this case, flowers.

Everyday objects taken out of context for a

message

that is not always easy, that you have to chew to make it fine and not choke.

What to taste and

enjoy

.

At least, what your palate allows.

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