Frida Kahlo and fashion: much more than corsets and flower headbands
And now what will happen to the dresses, coats and hats of Queen Elizabeth II?
The trendy jeans in autumn-winter 2022 are also the ones that look good on everyone
Highlighting the chest has become the latest obsession for designers and
generation Z
, who no longer need the bra as something mandatory but as a pure accessory, pure
aesthetics
.
So it is not so strange that the chest is once again covered with flowers in Loewe
's spring-summer 2023 collection
.
Well, rather, from a single flower.
The giant
Anthurium
that came out of the tunnel through which the models emerged was a preview of what was going to happen under the light and heat of the sun multiplied by the glass: the
flowers
were going to fill everything.
But the first and most striking were the
rigid tops
in the shape of pointed red leaves.
They aren't really tops at all, though they do
wrap
around the body with a
stem
: they're stiffer than such garments are often thought to be.
But they are not
corsets
either , because they are far from the piece intended to highlight the female figure.
They are, quite simply,
gigantic anthuriums
that cover the chest as if we were suddenly in the
Garden of Eden
and sin was newly released but there was still some innocence floating in the air.
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This idea also seems to be very present in another of the most outstanding
pieces
, or at least, the one that has been repeated the most, in the parade: the mini-
dresses
with a polo neck.
There were many, many dresses with skirts so minimal that underwear peeked out, like the first dresses that some mothers put on their babies or like some
miniskirts
in the 60s. The negative connotations of the infantilization of women and their sexualization at the same time can get to swarm around (wow, schoolgirl uniforms are
sexy
), but that depends a lot on how whoever interprets the dress is wired.
So let's just stick with them being well cut, flattering and playful, especially on
point .
of intense colors (the stripes, perhaps, go from being naive).
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complicated candidness
Some innocence is also sensed in a couple of
sweatshirts
that seem to have pixels in their seams and that are accompanied by
baggy pants
(maybe the most sophisticated gamer uniform ever made), or in the trench coats and short
Barbours
(all had to be short) and English;
nod to the origins of
Jonathan Anderson
and, why not, to the late queen.
But that
candidness
became more complicated in dresses with peaked necklines;
cliffs, danger warnings hidden in beauty.
After all, Anthurium is poisonous.
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The ups and downs of the
necklines
have also given rise to
tops
(this time yes) that rose rounded to almost hide the models' faces, in a new game that tests the limits of the
body
, of flattering.
Anderson appears to be groping, like performance artists adding permanent
prosthetics
to her body.
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For several seasons now,
Anderson
and
Loewe
have become synonymous with proposals that drink from
surrealism
and the ready-made, even, especially when it comes to nail polish, balloons or, as in this case, flowers.
Everyday objects taken out of context for a
message
that is not always easy, that you have to chew to make it fine and not choke.
What to taste and
enjoy
.
At least, what your palate allows.
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