China News Agency, Chengde, September 22, telegram: One hundred families dialing royal noodles: old tastes dig new cultural "IP"
Author Zhang Guiqin Li Ying
For northern Chinese people, when there are distinguished guests at home, they usually eat dumplings.
However, in Chengde, Hebei, outside the Great Wall, the "Baijiazi Diaoyu Noodles", which has been passed down for more than 300 years, is the most authentic local Manchu-style specialty snack. It is both down-to-earth and famous, and many tourists come here to taste it.
Along the imperial road where Emperor Kangxi and Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty went to Mulan paddock for hunting, going out of Longhua County, Chengde, and going north for 30 kilometers, there is an ancient town - Zhangsanying Town.
In the Qing Dynasty, it was called "One Hundred Family Sons".
Nearly noon, Ge Hailong from Zhangsanying Town was in the farmhouse kitchen kneading, rolling, and plucking noodles... His master Xin Zhanfeng gave careful guidance beside him.
"Baijiazi noodles are different from other noodles, but they have a history," said Xin Zhanfeng, 63 years old this year.
According to "Chengde House Records", in the twenty-seventh year of Qianlong's reign (1762 AD), after the Mulan Qiuling (hunting) ended, Emperor Qianlong once gave a banquet to the prince at Zhangsanying Palace, and the chief of the palace specially ordered a local noodle maker to make buckwheat dough. After tasting the noodles, Qianlong praised them as "white as jade, and the snow beats the frost", and gave it the name "one hundred families call the royal noodles".
Since then, the reputation of "one hundred family members dialing imperial noodles" has been greatly shaken. Later, the recipes of emperors and concubines added "dialing imperial noodles".
In 2007, "One Hundred Families" was included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of Hebei Province.
In Zhangsanying Town, everyone knows the "One Hundred Family Dialing Royal Noodles" made by the Xin brothers.
In 1981, Xin Zhanfeng's elder brother Xin Zhanwu was invited to the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse to make this dish for a state banquet.
The buckwheat flour used to make "Baijiazi Diaoyu Noodles" strictly follows the ancient method. There are 13 processes in total, including material selection, peeling, bran filling, flour grinding, and sieving. , part of it is mixed with cold water, and the proportions are different in different seasons: "Three-fifths of the spring and autumn need to be ironed, a quarter of summer is ironed, and a third of winter is ironed. Different seasons, different hot and cold ratios can To ensure the toughness of the noodles." Xin Zhanfeng said.
In the process of dialing, the noodle maker holds the double knives in both hands, and uses the ingenious cooperation of the wrist, arm and fingers to form "three-edged" noodles according to the requirements of speed, accuracy, uniformity and fineness.
It is said that an advanced noodle maker can make noodle "as thin as a needle and as white as snow".
After the noodles are formed and cooked, they are placed in a bowl, poured with brine and eaten.
Xin Zhanfeng started learning to make noodles with his brother at the age of 17, and now he is the seventh-generation inheritor of "One Hundred Families".
The dialing face has high technical requirements, and the thickness, length and shape of the noodles will affect the taste.
"The four-sided surface is hard, the round surface is soft, and the three-sided surface is smooth" is Xin Zhanfeng's decades of experience.
Right now, Xin Zhanfeng's main job is to take apprentices. As long as anyone wants to learn, he is willing to teach them all, "to pass on the skill of making noodles together."
Ge Hailong's farmhouse has been operating for more than 20 years. "It mainly receives foreign tourists. Every day, it sells 500 or 600 bowls of imperial noodles with only 100 family members. During the peak tourist season, the sales volume will at least double." Ge Hailong said.
In recent years, with the vigorous development of tourism in Chengde, there are more than 20 farmhouses in Zhangsanying Town, and the 100-year-old noodles are not only delicious, but also become a rich industry for the locals.
Xu Heping, a villager in Zhangsanying Township, opened her first farmhouse in the town 40 years ago. As her business has grown, she has now opened a noodle restaurant in the urban area of Chengde near the Mountain Resort.
"The unique taste of Baijiazi's noodles, in addition to the unique skills of grinding, kneading, and making noodles, has a secret, that is, the use of spring water in Zhangsanying Town." Xu Heping said that the local mountain spring water contains The high fluorine content and the low water temperature all year round give the dialed noodles a special taste and toughness.
In order to ensure the original taste, the hotel will send a car back to pull the mountain spring water every one or two days.
When eating is no longer just to fill the stomach, how can we make the "old taste" full of culture and feelings endure for a long time?
Xu Heping's answer is to keep the soul and keep innovating.
In recent years, Xu Heping’s Baijiazi Paiyu Noodles has added spicy beef, braised pork, tomatoes and eggs on the basis of old chicken soup, shredded pork, sauerkraut, hazelnut mushrooms, etc., and the menu is constantly changing. renew.
In 2020, "One Hundred Families Dialing Imperial Noodles" will enter the Chengde Museum to show people its long history and food culture.
In Zhangsanying Town, the birthplace of Baijiaziba Yumian, a form of agricultural tourism integration integrating agricultural science and technology demonstration park, sightseeing picking and eco-tourism has been built.
Chen Zhiqiang, Secretary of the Party Committee of Zhangsanying Town, said that in the next step, the town will deeply explore the new IP of the "Dai Yu Mian" culture, not only for tourists to taste it, but also for the "Dai Yu Mian" to go out, provide more exhibition space, let Everyone experienced the whole process of making the noodles, and inherited the food culture of non-heritage.
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