Some tremble, others rub their hands: what will happen now with the suppliers of the British Crown?

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• Elizabeth II: it all started with a black dress

's portrait

lights up the

window .

The royal seal with the distinctive 'By Her Majesty's Appointment' label lines the door of this legendary London establishment, specializing in "haute couture stuff".

The official certificate as

of fabrics of the now deceased monarch, which is framed under a reproduction of the

's coat of arms , attracts public attention and conveys confidence to the clientele of this shop on

in the northwest of the British capital. .

It is a prestigious recognition perhaps more associated with classic brands, such as

bags

.

But in this 'Aladdin's cave' raw material destined for palace halls and international fashion catwalks has been treasured since the beginning of the century.

It is the best kept secret of a

and colorful street in the district of

.

Joel's fabrics imported from Italy, France, Belgium, India, China and other countries compete for space with the foreign commodity market and a swarm of local antiques and collectible treasures under the

.

Discretion

is another brand of the house.

The quality of its silks,

, crepe or lamé secured the prized 'royal warrant' in 2001 and the royal warrant has since been renewed.

But both Joel and his grandson

, who are at the front of the store during our visit, keep quiet about the prized royal hallmark of quality and prestige, as if it were the Sicilian

of honor.

None of the 620 favorite suppliers of the missing queen is willing to break the '

'.

The '

' is granted to companies or individuals who have consistently provided goods and services to the '

' for a minimum of five years.

Once the license is secured, no one wants to risk losing it or hindering its periodic

by talking too much.

Shopkeepers at the crossroads

But the guarantee expires when the royal client dies, and the death this month of the ninety-year-old

leaves her 'grocers' at a crossroads.

In principle, they have two years to remove logos and

related to the license from their premises, bags and packaging paper, from the web, social networks and emails, from delivery vehicles, from paper and correspondence envelopes.

On the other hand, the impact of the change of title from the Prince of Wales to

is more practical than existential.

His 182 licenses have not lost their validity, although the

of each certificate issued will have to be modified to reflect the new position of

The

initiative is led by the Lord

's Office , attached to

, which is facing an urgent update of its scope and structure.

Until now, three members of the family enjoyed the privilege of appointing suppliers:

her husband ,

and her eldest son,

.

The hole opened since the duke's death, in April 2021, has not yet been filled and the one left by his wife is immensely larger.

Spanish brands among the favorites

It is anticipated that

will soon acquire the right to officially recognize his preferred stores, brands and firms, as heir to the

.

He will be the new 'grantor' (grantor) of the certificate for products and services used by the 'house' of the

The scope of coverage will include his direct family, with

in the lead, followed by the three little ones,

and

.

The Princess of Wales has shown continued confidence in Spanish fashion to date and it is not ruled out that one or several 'labels' will be on the probable list of favorites at

Palace , the official venue of the marriage.

Amaia Kids,

with its impeccable range of children's clothing, stands out among the possible candidates to enter the select club of palatial suppliers.

The founder and director of the company, the Gipuzkoan entrepreneur

, was awarded the 2022 edition of the

for business excellence, within the international trade category.

The then-Prince Charles presented her with the award, on behalf of the Queen, at a reception at

last July.

It was an "unforgettable" moment, said the creator.

silk parachute

The queen never approached

She did not see the pop portrait of her, nor the photos with dresses and suits in bright colors that appear among the rolls and boards of fabrics.

But the halls and gardens of Buckingham Palace are regularly opened to the loyal purveyors of the British monarchy.

It's a journey that octogenarian Joel walks with pride.

This week, he remembered his father,

who planted the seed at the

flea market where the cloth establishment continues to grow.

The patriarch was made with surplus military parachutes from

which he sold in scraps from a street stall located in front of the future store of his descendants.

"The parachutes were made of silk and my father dyed the fabric in different colors and cut it to size to make shirts," recalls the late sovereign's supplier.

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