Claro Couture and Roberto Diz triumph and close Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid

The

are not easy, especially because it never rains to everyone's liking and what seems wonderful to one, is terrifying to the person two seats further on.

It even happens with the collections of the firms that everyone loves.

But a general feeling among the public is that

.

It is here to forget what happens outside the doors, to think on what red carpet you could wear this or that dress;

which celebrity would you love to see him on.

And that is the language that

the two firms that have generated the most comments and applause on the last day at Ifema of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (with permission from the Allianz EGO catwalk, which takes place on Sunday 18).

Both the signature of

and that of Roberto Diz managed not only to fill, but also to stimulate the eyes that, perhaps, have already seen too much and need something new.

Because beware,

, everything that is supposed to have defined them up to now:

.

And a lot.

For example, in

they have opted for

and for, drum roll,

.

But if you think that's interesting, wait till you see

.

Yes, the man who has defended them the most over the years in Spanish fashion has grown tired of them.

At least this season, he wanted to relax and also, as he explained backstage, have fun.

"As much as possible," he clarified.

He has been very affected by world instability because he feels incapable of abstracting himself, but this parade has helped him escape from reality at times and he believes that he can make those who look at him dream.

," he said.

"Not from smell and taste, because we can't."

But if he could have, he would have.

Along the same lines, the work they have done at

Not only because the

, but because the

has been very present:

Literally: models have walked a carpet of glitter wearing pieces that are vibrant, evocative, and yet visually accessible;

a complicated balance to achieve and that, however, the firm has very well controlled.

Just like the party: models, designer,

and a good part of the public ended up dancing on the catwalk, celebrating that, as Maite maintains,

Here, more details of the day.

DR

Clear Couture

Glories

.

Seeing some of the dresses can make you think of just that, in blessed glory, and not only because it is the name of the collection and that is reflected in some shades such as light blue: it is that the brand of

is has become the

that lovers of

require.

For example, the

around the body when the model walks with it.

It is, for Beatriz, what

... with the permission of the

's pieces .

"It's the first time we've made a man, and there are four things, but they

," he says backstage with a calm smile.

"I have some friends in the world, actors, who told me to do something for them, and well, suddenly a lace shirt can be worn by them and you can be worn by yourself."

The patterns for the bodies change, and we all know that, especially this Sevillian family that has custom sewing as one of its strengths, but there are aesthetics that, luckily, no longer understand gender

that has to appear yes or yes, both in a

that invites you to dance and in another of the most surprising garments of the proposal, a

armed with feathers and flowers which then transforms into an XL cape.

Pure red carpet.

That is an area that they dominate well, very well, just like that of special occasions.

So much so that they have managed to

a titanic achievement considering that we are talking about handmade designer fashion.

"In 2022 we may have had a boom due to all those weddings that were delayed, but in 2023, for now, we are in numbers," explains Beatriz.

It is something to be proud of, especially because they have also managed to detect that client who

There they are putting a new emphasis on dresses ("which is ultimately what we know how to do") that are a little less impressive but just as special.

Come on, whoever doesn't have the chance to wear that white tulle dress with a tutu skirt (pure

), can always go for some of those knitted dresses that feel like a glove and that "you can also wear it for a wedding and for a dinner that is not a gala".

In any of these contexts, Beatriz Claro, carrying her last name as a flag, has shown that in the workshop they know well, very well, what their clients want, both aesthetically and financially.

She has a mind for business and a body for sin.

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Custo Barcelona

"This is a collection that

," explains Custo backstage as he walks among the colorful and bright garments.

They have always been like this, but on this occasion, it is even a little more justified: in Madrid he presents the

proposal with which he was at

seven days ago, to celebrate the fact that he has already done

across the Atlantic.

He smirks at the number, because "I still have a hard time believing it."

For this reason, and because it seems that there is still a great desire among creators to celebrate and have fun,

There are warm colors and different intensities of brightness for

explains.

This is reflected in the volumes and, of course, in its already traditional mix of technological and natural materials, which create a wealth of textures that battle with the tonal to capture attention.

An essential piece?

"These knitted dresses, which are extremely comfortable."

That said, but also look at the asymmetrical skirts and, above all, the

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Lola Casademunt by Maite

The brand has a "very marked" DNA

that is based on

and the game of

in the form of prints.

That is indisputable.

And the designer has based herself on that again to create a new proposal that she thinks of summer and its magic,

"They are all flowing looks,

, with tulle, maxi dresses, culottes, pleats... All with a very feminine color in

", she tells before the parade.

fabrics

in blues and golds and

.

It's a parade full of energy and it's going to make you dream". And to make your customers buy, too.

, he says. "All the closets are full of clothes and

And I myself am restless and I get quite bored of always seeing the same thing, that's why

".

The difference has been in some jacket suits with short blazers and cropped tops;

in lively jacquard skirts that share the spotlight with intense oranges, in, of course, the sequins and glitter on which the models have paraded.

What remains immovable is Nieves Álvarez, who ended up dancing with the models and the public at the end of the parade, and Maite's desire to have fun.

"Life is today, and tomorrow we don't know what will happen," she confesses.

This has been, once again, brightness in its purest form and the reminder that there is no need to apologize for wanting to be dressed in pink and on high heels.

More would be missing.

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Roberto Diz

If you came to see

, this is not your place:

as much as they have been the central axis of his vocabulary.

he tells naturally.

"I was in the mood

."

Do not be surprised by the comparison, because precisely that, the neurons, are the pattern that slips between the powerful smooth ones.

"The

was done by the Aliakar design studio," he explains.

"We have printed it

and we have given it points of light thanks to crystals embroidered by hand one by one". A

which he is very proud and that is even in the interior finishes of the jackets. Diz knows what he is doing.

"I work a lot of Haute Couture and I

", he confesses.

"But I

and, with all due respect, I don't want to end up being just the designer of the aristocracy. I need this, I need to have my moment so that the creativity that I have inside comes out."

And boy, has he come out: he has done it through recycled materials that form blouses and skirts that swell when he moves;

in the form of corsets that are a classic in the house and that, however, are dyed in

That creativity has also taken the form of a sparkly mesh suit jacket with

that create an aqua effect by doing without interlinings and shimmering, much like the sequins on a midi dress ("with a long like a grandmother, but no") and, of course,

.

Now we just have to wait to see them in action: we are looking forward to it.

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