Samaná, the luxurious Caribbean that you have to know before it is too late

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He arrived without warning, so Christopher Columbus was received by the Ciguayo Indians with a clean arrow.

It was a morning in January 1493 in the bay of Samaná, that piece of paradise 60 by 20 kilometers long north of the most authentic,

Dominican Republic , more like it was then.

Today

, the capital of the province, welcomes visitors to the rhythm of bachata, day and night, with warm smiles (no saetas) and with the atmosphere of the street grocery stores, the

and the shopkeepers of the local market, in the morning packed with tropical fruits and fish.

"

", the kids are heard asking without getting off the motorcycles: "

", they answer, that is, all

, all good.

Yes, Samaná is a microcosm of virgin beaches, postcard keys and a huge number of coconut palms, but it is also

, different from Punta Cana and others, especially because it is palpable that it was full of life before the era arrived. of the bracelet and the all inclusive.

Santa Barbara de Samana Market.

There are several reasons to get on a boat in Samaná.

Between January and March, it is definitely to go to the

sanctuary .

Every year, the bay attracts the largest concentration of these North Atlantic sea giants that come down to mate or give birth, with more than 3,000 whales sighted each season.

Another reason may be to romp in a hammock on

, a tropical islet of golden sand where there is a hotel of the Spanish chain Bahía Príncipe.

The third and essential is to visit

, the jewel in the crown of Dominican nature.

This requires at least three hours of navigation, in which neither water nor Coca-Cola, with or without rum, is lacking.

As in Halong Bay in Vietnam, the seascape is drawn

where vegetation has grown and where thousands of birds live.

"All the plants are planted here by the birds. Nature is perfect," says Luis, a Samanense guide, in front of the so-called

, with dozens of frigatebirds in flight.

In total, the Haitises cover an area of ​​1,600 square kilometers dotted with islets, caves decorated with petroglyphs and the largest

the entire Caribbean.

An unsurpassed Eden full of birds, dolphins and manatees where more than one will recognize it as a

television set.

That's how it is.

and The Island of the Famous were recorded here

, as the guide recalls in great detail: «" I met Paula Vázquez ", he boasts.

Buggy excursion through Las Galeras.

Back on dry land, the truck moves almost like the ship.

It is the grace of the roads of Samaná, which force the traveler to go slowly, enjoying himself, so as not to end up with the hills against one of his

.

But of course, these roads are the resistance against mass tourism.

On the way to any part, the vegetation is an impenetrable jungle: a green mural speckled from time to time by a flamboyant tree with showy red flowers.

Of course, if we look at the foliage we begin to recognize different types of banana, pineapple, vanilla, cinnamon, avocado,

and huge cocoa pods.

A very fun way to get into this exuberant jungle is to fly over it on a zip line.

The adventure company Runners Adventures organizes this type of excursion in which you go from

to

(up to ten) through a small but exciting little piece of jungle.

Urban art in Las Terrenas.

EARTHLY PLEASURES

There is much to see and feel in the north of the peninsula.

Those unbelievable virgin beaches are there waiting at the end of winding roads.

Very popular, especially among the French, are

, a small earthly paradise where small hotels, restaurants and craft and souvenir shops have been built, ideal for browsing at the end of the afternoon.

It has a long and lively promenade along the beach from which to watch kitesurfers and their spectacular pirouettes in the air.

Already in the last hours of the day, the city comes alive quickly in the Pueblo de los Pescadores, the bar area.

It smells like seafood in coconut sauce.

Music plays everywhere.

They run the

, the local beer... The night has only just begun.

Much quieter and, of course, indomitable is

, an off-the-beaten-path enclave that concentrates all the tropical forts of the peninsula.

To the left of this wild and divine beach, the mouth of the river becomes a

clinging to some rocks that provide shade.

A modest restaurant offers according to what there is every day chicken and fish.

In fact, many of the fishermen's boats rest on the white sand that embraces a blue-green sea.

You just have to be careful when walking not to step on the nesting areas of sea turtles.

Rincon Beach.

From here to the end of the peninsula there doesn't seem to be much distance, but there is no choice but to return to the south to continue north.

No matter.

In 40 minutes ("40 Dominican minutes", as the driver will say) you can still reach the town of

, a refuge for those who abhor the rush of modernity and know how to live well.

scandal beaches

The road does not end, but abruptly collides in

, a perfect crescent-shaped sandbank with a restaurant where you can eat fresh fish facing the sea... It cannot be bettered.

Or maybe yes.

always appears in the ranking of the best beaches in the world

, only five kilometers from the previous one.

And it is truly stunning: a very long sandbank of turquoise waters surrounded by that prodigious thickness that surrounds all of Samaná.

In short, it is the living image of paradise.

Plus?

Yes, point to Caño Frio.

It is the name of the river that joins the sea at one end of the beach.

There are always local bathers.

If they ask

You already know the answer: All cold.

Practical Guide

Get.

The tour operator Soltour (www.soltour.es) offers packages with direct flights operated by Plus Ultra to the Samaná-El Catey airport throughout the summer.

Sleep.

Bahía Príncipe Luxury Samaná (www.bahia-principe.com).

An 'all inclusive' for adults only with a beach of coconut palms in front of the popular island of Cayo Levantado.

To eat.

Tierra y Mar Restaurant: fish, shellfish and rice dishes in the center of Santa Bárbara de Samaná, ideal for trying authentically local flavors.

More information.

On the Dominican Republic Tourism website godominicanrepublic.com

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