There are many reasons for the return of this female
'instrument of torture'
("the murderer of the human race"
Napoleon
called it , since at the time it was believed to be abortive), the center of a very complete universe through which they flutter and they cross
sexual fantasies,
physical and aesthetic feats and
Victorian nostalgia.
It has been written that this period fantasy called
'The Bridgertons'
has played a central role in their revival, but there are more elements that have influenced their return, such as the
rise of BDSM
(especially since '50 shades of Grey' ) and the way in which
fashion
has periodically and increasingly frequently borrowed
corsetry elements,
especially Gaultier, who has been doing it since the 90s and is still there.
The latest incarnation of her commitment to tight satin has been worn by
Rihanna
for a night out, in stark black.
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Although few corsets are as fantastic (in the broadest sense of the term) as the one worn by businesswoman
Natasha Poonawalla,
signed as her entire look by
Schiaparelli,
for the last
MET gala.
It would work perfectly in a versus to see who dazzles more with the
Dolce & Gabbana rhinestones
that Miss
Kim Kardashian
has recently taken from the Italian firm's trunk of memories (it's from the 1991 collection).
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What is and is not a corset
Here a clarification is in order: today
we call a corset
anything that remotely resembles that original piece (which, by the way, in the
16th century,
when it was invented, was made of iron), including many tops that do not modify the figure at all, or wide belts tied with ribbons.
But not.
When we speak here of a
return of the corset
, we are not referring only to garments that play with said aesthetic reference, but rather we are speaking of a growing movement oriented towards the use of
corsets
that truly
modify the
female figure and are tightened until the waist is reduced to its size. minimal expression.
As an example, a button.
Of course, if anyone has something to say about corsets from the
point of view of fashion,
it is the designer Maya Hansen, who has spent several decades defending from Spain the reintroduction of this garment in the wardrobe of fashionistas.
His pieces have been worn by celebrities such as
Lady Gaga, Kylie Jenner, Nadja Auermann, Rossy de Palma, Laura Pausini, Nieves Álvarez, Pilar Rubio...
For Hansen, who also currently teaches corsetry workshops (alert, corset lovers! ), it is very clear who the potential consumer of their garments is: "Whoever wears a corset
knows what they are wearing.
You have to like it
tight.
The woman who chooses it is usually quite
determined, feminine
and he has things quite clear". Maya Hansen's pieces are between 79 and 600 euros.
One of Maya Hansen's corsets, the 'Calaveras Underbust'.
It costs 79 euros.MH
Not so the ones that
generation Z usually wears,
who often buy these clothes on sites like
Amazon,
where you can find
them from 10 euros.
That generation Z feels increasingly captivated by an objectively uncomfortable garment, which restricts movement and even prevents breathing normally, is probably related to the fact that it lacks conditions that prevent it from decontextualizing the garment from its original cultural and sociological framework. .
Come on, who lacks prejudices against her, and only perceives her from an aesthetic perspective... Or so she thinks.
Why do we like corsets?
The influential zoologist
Desmond Morris,
whose book 'The Naked Ape' is among the 100 most read in history, would explain it from a one hundred percent sexual point of view and a context of repression-hiding-exhibition.
This, which sounds terrible, he explains it very well, you'll see.
Morris tells that the human being is a primate with an
accentuated sexuality
and that he constantly resists being sexually repressed (for example, covering the most 'provocative' areas of the body with fabrics that hide them).
And it is that, he explains, "his biological nature of him is constantly revealed. As soon as artificial controls are applied in one direction, countermeasures immediately arise. This often leads to particularly contradictory situations."
Give the example of the
female breast.
"The female covers her breasts, and then
accentuates their shape with a bra.
This artificial sexual stimulant can be padded or inflatable, so that it not only remakes the hidden shape, but also enhances and augments it, thus mimicking breast swelling that occurs during sexual arousal.
Through a similar twist we arrive at what may now seem absurd torment of the corset.
At various times, explains the ethologist,
the curves of the hips
and
chest
have been exaggerated with the use of pads and tight belts, "the
narrow waist
in the female has been promoted and the
pressure of the corset
on this region has been widely practiced
This trend reached its climax a century ago [referring to the XIX], with the
'wasp sizes',
a time in which some women went so far as to have
their lower ribs surgically removed to increase the effect
.
Morris believes that these paradoxes (hiding and then exaggerating) fall within what he calls
'remotivating behaviors'
and that they seek to
appear attractive
in the eyes of the opposite sex
in order to avoid their hostility.
In the case of humans, the mix of clothing that hides and exaggerates at the same time would convey a message of "I'm not available, but I'm still very sexual."
Who said we were simple?
maximum sexual fetish
The fact is that, over time, the corset that reigned over female bodies for more than three centuries (with a brief lapse in Napoleonic times), ceased to be used and then became a 'sex toy', a
fetish object .
, with
sadomasochistic
echoes
.
Why?
Because it has two characteristics that make it especially attractive for the game of sexual power: on the one hand , it
oppresses the body
and limits
it, subdues it;
and on the other,
it hypersexualizes it,
highlighting its forms.
A classic of sadomasochistic fetishism: black, latex, gloves, tights and black stockings.
Of course
Marianne Faulkner
from 'The Lingerie Addict' tells me I'm wrong.
" Women
who wear
corsets
are more likely to
feel
empowered
than cowed, and I have often found that women's reaction to my corsets is much more positive than men's (a trend that also dates back to Victorian times) ", Explain.
For her part, in '10 things I love about wearing a corset', a woman who signs as
Suzanne
says that "of the interactions that involve lingerie, that of the corset is one of the most
pleasant
possible between a man and a woman".
She loves, says Suzanne, things as diverse as "the intensity of the experience of having a perfect
hourglass figure,"
"never being able to forget I'm wearing a corset," "the feeling I get when my
husband
wears hands
around
my waist"
or "the way my ample hips are forced to sway as I walk around in a corset and modern dress."
Because there is nothing written about tastes (and luckily).
So much so that a young Spanish designer, Laura Manuela, whose proposals combine garments with roots (she is from Extremadura) with the latest trends, also has her own renewed versions of the corset, which she calls
Abrazos de Laura Manuela.
"There are those who believe that corsets hurt, mine, if you tighten them a lot they are like a big hug, but if not, it's like feeling someone hug you. And that also empowers."
The influencer Verónica Ferraro in the last fashion week in Paris with a leather corset signed by Fendi.GETTY IMAGES
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