Indian hand loom suffers from competition from Chinese machines and copies

The original silk saree.. in the wind

The sari is more than just a traditional outfit in India.

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In his dimly lit workshop, Indian Muhammad Sirajuddin adheres to manual techniques in the manufacture of silk sarees, as he is one of the last weavers of Varanasi to use the artisanal method of producing this traditional women's dress.

But the city’s craftsmen who insist on weaving these authentic clothes by hand, are today exposed to fierce competition from the low-priced Chinese sarees, which invaded the markets, and the use of modern machines poses a threat to their continuity, while their sales are still negatively affected by the slow recovery from the “Covid-19” pandemic.

"If you go around the neighborhood, you will notice that this house is the only one that has hand-woven items," said Muhammad Siraj al-Din, 65, from his workshop.

A single saree, designed by Sirajuddin and adorned with gold zari thread and with floral patterns, is sold for 30,000 rupees ($390), but the profit that remains for him is very small, as manufacturing costs and brokers' commissions are deducted from the price.

In contrast, a machine-woven sari costs between 5,000 and 10,000 rupees ($130), but is made with lower quality silk.

According to Jaya Jaitley, the author of the book "Woven Textiles of Varanasi", the spread of counterfeit products of Chinese origin in the market has negatively affected the traditionally made sarees in Varanasi.

“The traditional textile industry should be supported, as India has the largest diversity of hand weaving, techniques, skills and qualified labor in the world,” she says, adding that the tradition of hand weaving is a source of pride.

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