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The premiere of the

documentary by Georgina Rodríguez

once again put the spotlight on

her style

.

In her looks, in her bags.

About the money and how she spent it.

In how she dresses a rich person

.

She said everything, she commented on everything, but in the environment there was a certain questioning about what pieces she invested that heritage in, especially when the pieces were either eminently sporty or eminently striking within the universe of luxury.

There were negative comments, yes, some of them biased by the idea of ​​normative elegance and what has always been considered "dressing well".

But

does Georgina exemplify the new luxury aesthetic, how the rich dress in 2022?

In part yes.

But only in part, because no one would say that she and

Marta Ortega

share the same taste and the same wardrobe.

Personal taste is just that, personal, and there is little discussion there.

However, from the looks of Georgina and Marta Ortega it is possible to extract a

generalization

that gives rise to the

division

that can be observed right now in the aesthetics of the wealthy:

that of ostentatious luxury and that of silent luxury

.

What is the 'old money' aesthetic and silent luxury

Silent

luxury

is that current that can be crystallized in garments such as

simple shirts, well-cut jacket suits;

cashmere sweaters,

square and plain bags, both light and dark neutral tones, straight jeans... In short, what has often been classified as

wardrobe

essentials or basics to have.

The reason?

Which was what these wealthy people wore precisely to avoid appearing excessively wealthy.

The Anglo-Saxon term that also defines this idea is

'stealth wealth', literally "stealth wealth"

, and it has become increasingly popular in recent years due to the different crises, especially the last one caused by the pandemic.

Some media outlets open the door to opinions that argue that

flagrantly exposing money can hurt sensitivities

, although there are also those who say, not without irony, that apparently more middle class, one can get rid of certain and hypothetical reprisals.

Avoid the guillotine.

And an example of this, which goes beyond the anecdotal, is that of

Anna Delvey

, both in the audiovisual version of her and the real one: in both shots,

the clothes were essential for the false socialite to be able to build her character

.

So much so that in 2018, the journalist Rachel Tashijian wrote an article for 'Garage' entitled 'Anna Delvey she did not dress like the rich, and that is precisely why she seemed rich'.

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Although that could be the initial premise, the truth is that certain approaches of some luxury houses, such as

The Row

, and audiovisual products such as '

Succession

'

(HBO) have caused the opposite effect:

seeing a person dressed without ostentation now it is linked much more quickly to wealth and certain aesthetic knowledge

.

Some connections that, in reality, come from that little known but existing elite that tries to

keep a low profile

because they do not want to put the spotlight on their person in any way.

Nor through the looks.

John F. Kennedy and Jackie Kennedy are an example for the new generations of the 'old money' aesthetic.Getty Images

One of the most recent national examples in this sense is that of

Marta Ortega

: many of the pieces worn by the president of Inditex could be in almost any wardrobe, ignoring the Haute Couture by Valentino that she wears for special events.

The white jacket suit, the dark shovels, the dress with discreet flowers, the green parka...

Any of her outfits

is easy to recreate at home

.

Because Ortega's intention has never been to position herself as a style icon: she has been to prepare herself to occupy the position she now has and live her life away from the press and tabloid headlines.

No more.

A desire that, it is said, is shared by people of her economic level.

Another good example, especially right now, would be

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, the designers of The Row

.

To see them on a daily basis is to see any anonymous person, not two creative directors of one of the most desired firms in the fashion industry.

Because XL coats, long dresses, simple shoes and oversized bags without a visible logo are essential in multi-brand luxury portals and in the speeches of expert buyers, who usually define the brand (this is what it does, for example, , Net-A-Porter) as "timeless, relaxed elegance."

And these two concepts are not used randomly because whoever has a fortune, doesn't he want it to last intact over time?

Transcendence, if you will.

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen tend to opt for understated but high-priced clothing.Getty Images

That concept is the one that would explain why they no longer flee from the shrillness, but from the pure and hard trends that can be seen quickly out of date.

In this sense, the artist and designer

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

He says that color "is also a matter of social construct:

rich people generally don't like color. They like beige, pearl gray... Nothing flashy.

The only color they like is precious stones. "

like ruby.

Patrizia Eguidazu

,

however, disagrees, because she and Castelbajac belong to "different generations" and therefore understand society differently.

But she sheds light on the Frenchman's comment:

"His vision is based on

natural fabrics

.

Color dyes are not easily applicable

to nobler and therefore

more expensive

fabrics , such as

good linen or silk

. For that reason, those fabrics will almost always come onto the market in neutral tones and those who can buy them are people with money because of the high price they will have. A very clear example of this is the Brunello Cuccinelli brand".

Wow, it's not just a psychological issue, but also a practical and economic one that some of the rich dress discreetly.

nouveau riche style

The woman who has taught many Spanish businesswomen how to dress emphasizes that, indeed,

"until a few years ago, the rich were discreet by definition",

but "that is no longer the case:

now there are many types of rich and not all of them want to be discreet,

and many of today's rich are fascinated by color, and the more garish the better".

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The nuance added by Eguidazu opens the door to the style exemplified by

Georgina Rodríguez,

but also by a good handful of billionaire singers or, why not,

Salma Hayek herself,

married to François-Henri Pinault, the president of the luxury conglomerate Kering and one one of the richest men in the world, with a fortune estimated at more than 30,000 million dollars.

Even that of

Iris Apfel,

the style icon who has just collaborated with H&M on a capsule collection.

That of logomania, the vibrant and the discreet, something that is also the taste of certain Latin American and Russian buyers, as explained by the 'personal shopper' Elena Esteban.

In a globalized world, much of this style may be due to a

certain aesthetic that comes from the west coast of the United States.

In the country, experts in image and sociology have begun to distinguish what they call the

'old money'

style between one coast and another, because being rich in New York is not the same as being rich in Los Angeles.

And not because of a monetary issue, but because of how that money is shown: relying on streetwear and the 'casual'.

Think for a moment about the

'model off duty' style

.

Jeans, sweatshirts, sweatpants, leggings

.

The ubiquitous '

athleisure

'.

It is a style that could be considered, according to the parameters of classic elegance and 'old money', careless.

But that is precisely where their interest lies: these rich seem to say that they have so much money that they can afford to dress in a less polished way, because they will be taken seriously anyway.

Yes, take seriously.

Because we cannot ignore that the social construct in which a large number of people move speaks of

what is 'fixed' implies control, willpower and is usually associated with success,

, has more ballots to

look over his shoulder.

Let's not fool ourselves: the idea still prevails that the fortunes that come from afar, those 'of all life' seem more accepted and validated than the nouveaux riches, who are the ones who theoretically want to flaunt their assets.

The trace of

classism

is more than present.

Although looking into this universe that can leave you blinded by the brightness is always curious, taking a look at how the rich dress right now is not only interesting because of the morbidity, but also because

both aesthetics are penetrating

deeper and deeper .

among

luxury firms

as well as among the

younger generations,

who on various platforms, through TikTok, are appropriating it to explore, reinvent, even perform satires.

Because although on many occasions you continue to look up, that style is no longer a matter of a few.

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