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If we talk
about makeup
in these times, leaving aside the 'Euphoria' series would be a mistake.
Because it is this fiction that has changed
the rules of the game,
expanding the possibilities of eyeliners and
colored
and glitter shadows of all kinds and conditions.
These eye-catching looks are almost
the norm among generation Z
and have managed to make what was previously limited solely and exclusively to the catwalks jump onto the street.
An attempt, to
normalize the
most artistic and less conventional makeup, which had already been done in the past by
Lucia Pica,
Chanel
's makeup artist
until last year, with a collection in 2016 that bet on coloring
the eyes red,
or
Peter Philips, by Dior, and her
colorful eyeliner
looks
with which she broke the mold at the fall-winter 2018-2019 show.
But it has not been until now when
the imagination
in this color has become almost mandatory, and if not tell it to the actresses on the
big red carpets,
who not only impact with their outfits, but also with their makeup.
The Malaga Festival, with actress
Olivia Baglivi
's blue lips made up by
Iván Gómez for Chanel or
Marta Hazas
' two-tone shadows
made by
Roberto Siguero for Lancôme
are just two of the latest examples.
Are there rules for making up a 50-year-old face?
We talk about what to wear, but you might wonder who can wear it.
Is this style suitable for all ages?
Many makeup artists are from the school
that anything goes,
as well as giving bright colors to the eyes and lips at the same time (such as
Baltasar González Pinel, from MAC).
And tell
Iris Apfel
to give up her 100-year-old green eyeshadow.
View this post on Instagram
What is certain is that 50-year-old skin has certain peculiarities that must be taken into account.
Because, after half a century of life, and inevitably,
wrinkles
make an appearance, the smoothness of 20 years
declines in flaccidity
and spots make their appearance.
Not to mention that the lips become blurred,
the eyelids droop...
It is time to put on makeup, then, not only as something playful and artistic, but to hide, or at least
not enhance,
these signs of age.
Less is more: the key to skin makeup at 50
The basic rule to which all experts go when applying makeup to 50-year-old skin is that less is more.
So says
Lisa Eldridge,
creative director of
Lancôme,
in the tutorial 'Tips for anti-aging makeup' on her YouTube channel.
For this reason, after 40, the expert advises choosing
a light and luminous foundation
when, let's face it, many of us would go straight to the most covering and 'camouflaging'.
Makeup artist
Sonia Marina
is from the same school.
For her, "the key is to show a fresh and radiant skin, because with age it loses light, which is why you have to use luminous funds
that minimize the pores
of the skin but that its finish is free of shine".
In short, the base has to be light, with medium coverage, so that it does
not sit on the wrinkles
and mark them.
Another aspect that
Gisela Bosque,
National Makeup Artist of
Sephora Spain,
highlights is that you have to choose a base with a
pink undertone.
"It's time to stop fantasizing about
the tan finish,
which adds years - and even decades - and opt for these shades, "she declares.
And pay attention to the application: no smearing your entire face with makeup, what you have to do is
apply it only in specific areas
so as not to saturate the skin, "starting from the center of the cheekbone and gently dragging the product to the contour of the face", explains Sonia Marina.
Perhaps it is also time to
say goodbye to powders
to prevent them from over-drying the skin and cracking the makeup.
If you 'need' to use them, do it only in the areas where shine is most annoying:
nose, forehead and chin.
The corrector at 50, better this way
The concealer, that anti-dark circles and imperfections wand, can be a double-edged sword.
Sephora's makeup artist says no to the driest concealers - you have to use an extra-
creamy formula -
and
yes to illuminators,
but without glitter.
You only have to use concealer tailored to dry or mature skin, spread it close to the tear duct, without taking it all the way around (and even less so, to the crow's feet) and use
the highlighter under the arch of the eyebrow.
Eyebrows
that, by the way, lose color, thickness and strength over the years, so shaping,
filling in and slightly increasing
intensity is essential.
Gillian Anderson, 53, with natural blush.
At 50: blush yes or no?
Blush is a fundamental element to enhance freshness.
The make -up artist
Cristina Lobato
prefers them in cream or fluids, which simulate
the touch of natural blush
on the cheeks.
If applied well, they can even have a lifting effect.
"They sit on the highest point of the cheekbone, towards the temple, in shades of pink or peach," explains the makeup artist.
However, Gisela Bosque puts a but and a solution: "From the look of
'What happened to Baby Jane'
to that of
Jane Fonda
in
'Grace & Frankie'
at 80, there is a thin line that is marked, not by the color , but because of the way you apply the blush.
Blend, blend, blend
until you think there's no product left on your cheeks."
View this post on Instagram
How to wear eyeliner and mascara at 50
If the mascara is a basic make-up, even more so the more that are fulfilled, essential to enliven the look.
Of course, it is preferable to deposit a greater amount
in the center
to open the eye, at the suggestion of Sonia Marina.
And, if we talk
about eyeliner,
it is better to use it to give depth to the eyelash with
a fine line,
avoiding thickening the eyelid and making the eye 'heavy'.
Eye shadows and lipsticks: anything goes at 50?
No matter how old you are,
any tone is welcome
as long as you do not intend to appear younger than you are.
If what we want is to rejuvenate with a brush stroke, Sonia Marina recommends
"soft shadows
that give light to the eyelid".
To do this,
"neutral colors
are what will help us achieve a clean and bright look," recalls
Enrique Crespo,
Armani
makeup artist .
When applying them, if you have droopy eyelids, don't forget to use the correct technique.
And it doesn't hurt to use a primer or primer to smooth the fine skin of the eye.
View this post on Instagram
Let's go to
the lips
.
The problem with them is not so much the color that is chosen, but that wrinkles can proliferate in the contour, which makes the tone slide into them.
This problem does not occur with lighter lipsticks, but with reds or more resounding colors.
What to do then?
Give them up for life?
Not at all.
Enrique Crespo is of the opinion that it will be better to apply them so that they
have a bitten mouth effect,
that is, applying makeup with the fingers or depositing
a little color in the center
of the lip and blending towards the ends.
In short, at 50 and over, you don't have to give up anything:
just cut back a little
and learn the odd application trick.
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