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The crossroads of
Istanbul,
with the Bosphorus Strait joining Asia and Europe at the edge of a city of 20 million inhabitants, is a hive of cults and passions, of
historical miscegenations and ancient concoctions,
of alleys to the past and highways to the future, of magnets and miniskirts in the zigzag XXI century.
The most vibrant and popular Turkey, denuded in recent times by the mass phenomenon of soap operas that scorch the grill at any time of the day or night, has found
its best shuttle in
ancient Constantinople .
And yet, the transcontinental country wants to show the world that there is life beyond Istanbul, its true crown jewel.
Panoramic view of the town from the Ejder station.
On this occasion, we take a leap to
Erzurum
, capital of the Eastern Anatolia region where the strength of its winter landscapes and the richness of its
Mongol, Seljuk and Ottoman past
converge .
Due to its strategic location, it was the gateway for Eurasian civilizations and one of the hot spots on the Silk Road.
All these incursions have been sedimenting thousands of stories,
archaeological remains
and fascinating literature that can be breathed in an icy plateau at around 2,000 meters above sea level.
A group of children skiing in Turkey.
Thus, while Ankara is the institutional capital of
Turkey and Istanbul
the cosmopolitan city, Erzurum stands in the east of the country as one of the cities with the greatest
historical and sentimental weight.
Not surprisingly, at the famous Erzurum Congress of 1919, delegates from six rebel provinces of the Ottoman Empire laid the foundations for
Turkish independence
, commanded by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, considered the father of the nation.
And there is even more: the city was for decades on the route of the famous Orient Express train, which has just been relaunched in the region to revitalize the area.
Winter Games
But, without a doubt, the main attraction of the place is skiing.
With a harsh cold that extends the snow season up to six months a year (even in May), Erzurum has become an ideal destination for winter sports.
And just an hour and a half by
direct flight from Istanbul
.
A few kilometers from the city's airport is Ejder3200, the brand with which the Turkish authorities have baptized this
unique
white zone in the world.
Ejder
, which means dragon, refers to one of the mountains where you can enjoy
two of the best seasons in Turkey
to: Palandöken and Konakli.
3,200, obviously, is the altitude of these peaks that have managed to make a name for themselves on the international circuit since they hosted the Winter University Games in 2011.
Climbing session on an icy vertical wall.
Five kilometers from the historic center of Erzurum, where more than 10 centuries of fascinating history can be breathed in every stone of every mosque,
Palandöken and Konakli
make a triple somersault in time and sneak into the 21st century as two of the stations of most modern ski in the country.
With very fine-grained powder snow - it seems that we are talking about
gastronomy
but no, we continue with
winter sports
- and with a depth of up to 1.20 meters, both seasons are open from November to May.
Between the two they add up
to 130 kilometers of slopes
not only designed for skiing and
skateboarding
(by day and also by night).
Prepare the ginseng and the multivitamin complex, because
the bacchanal of activities
(more or less intrepid) has no end: paragliding over snowy peaks, climbing ice walls,
trekking ,
snowmobile
safaris
along the most unexpected routes,
camping on the ice
, descent in
tubing
(a kind of giant floats) down impossible slopes, bicycle excursions...
Bike tour in the snow.
But since man does not live on snow alone,
Ejder3200
has a revolutionary restoration concept.
Like its Capsule Café (a 60-meter-long tubular construction embedded in the mountain), the
Sphere restaurant
(a glass sphere at 3,000 meters of altitude that includes on the menu the best of traditional Anatolian cuisine - from which we will explain later-) or the
Lantern Cafe
(individual bungalows made of glass with fireplace and air conditioning).
unique architecture
In response to the growing tourist demand in the area (not to forget that Erzurum was a candidate for the 2026
Winter Olympics
), Ejder3200 has several hotels in the Dragon Mountain Valley.
Snowdora Ski Resort
Hotel, Polat Erzurum, Dedema, Sway Hotel (with one of the best
après-ski
in the region), Palan Hotel Sky Convention and Dedeman Palandöken Ski Lodge articulate the hotel offer.
And remember: after a day of snow, nothing better than a long visit to the hamán (Turkish bath) of any of these four or five star establishments.
The past of ancient Constantinople can be seen in the architecture.
Any of these hotels can be the perfect operations center to also learn about the history of the city.
And it is that sport and culture go hand in hand on this trip to
Eastern Anatolia,
where the old town of Erzurun is a mirror of all the peoples who have planted their seed over the centuries.
Its
madrassas from the Seljuk era
(13th and 14th centuries) are two true masterpieces of Islamic art, and the vivid colors of the bas-reliefs contrast with the reddish hue of the volcanic stone.
The
Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque
-which served as a model for later Ottoman buildings- and the Osvank monastery complete the religious architecture of the region.
And to round off this cocktail of
sport, adventure and history
in one of the most fascinating cardinal points on the planet, the
City of Brave Men
- the name by which Erzurum is also known due to its warlike past - also displays a
unique recipe book.
Influenced by the Silk Road, Eastern Anatolian cuisine is one of the most appreciated in Turkey.
The
cag kebab
, cooked only with
lamb meat
, is the
star dish on a menu
that includes su
boregi
(a kind of Turkish lasagna),
lor dolmasi
(stuffed vegetable leaves), tripe soup (don't be fooled by the name) and sweets.
Always the sweets.
Take advantage.
The local gastronomy is tasty and forceful.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET.
Turkish Airlines
(
operates two daily flights to Istanbul. From there, it travels to Erzurum (just an hour and a half away).
WHERE TO SLEEP
.
The
Polat Erzurum Resort Hotel
is one of many hotel establishments in the ski center, just five kilometers from the airport.
WHERE TO EAT.
At the
Guzelyurt
restaurant , in the center of Erzurum.
MORE INFORMATION
.
On the website of the
Turkish Tourist
Office : www.goturkiye.com
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