The crowd cheers and claps, sings, shouts and takes lots of pictures with their smartphones.

Some hold hands, many have dressed up especially for the occasion.

The many young people did not gather in Milan this Thursday to demonstrate against the war that the Russian President declared on Ukraine at half past four in the morning.

You are here to catch a glimpse of celebrity guests at the Gucci runway show.

Russia's invasion of Ukraine - it doesn't play a role at Milan Fashion Week at first.

Johanna Dürrholz

Editor at the Frankfurter Allgemeine Magazin

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The designers show their shows as if nothing had happened.

In fact, it's not easy to simply transform an event that you've been working towards for many months.

An event that was supposedly apolitical, not to be made political anyway.

And canceling an event on which so much depends economically, which is expensive, which is supposed to bring in a lot of money for the city and the fashion brands, is not even up for debate.

On Thursday, Max Mara presents a classic collection with pleasant color outliers.

Emporio Armani shows light, cheerful, colorful going-out clothes.

And Prada sends its models in skirts of all kinds - pleated skirts, see-through skirts, pencil skirts - through the huge dark Prada hall.

Kim Kardashian and Anna Wintour watch like nothing happened.

But that's not true.

The fashion world will soon feel the impact of the war: the exclusion of major Russian banks from the Swift financial transaction system could mean the loss of wealthy Russian customers.

Many rich and super rich from Russia like to invest their money in luxury goods and status symbols.

Even if private customers are still vacationing on Capri and shopping in Paris, buyers from Russia may soon no longer be able to strike.

The fashion world can only shine when it is lucrative.

It's never just about artistic expression through clothing.

It's about consumption, and it's really not often creative or beautiful, but can be thoughtless, excessive, inhuman.

And yet every now and then he casts a spell over everyone,

This week should be a liberation with the fashion for autumn and winter, the big party after the corona pandemic.

Many designers have implemented the desire for light-heartedness, celebration, fun and intoxication into their clothing.

There was plenty of short dresses, lots of glitter and swing, there was a touch of see-through black party fun at Dolce & Gabbana, latex leggings at Versace and metallic sheen at Etro.

Dresses that promise fun at Missoni and casual skirts at Prada, combined with tank tops.

Even Marni, whose avant-garde show began in the dark and initially only showed the models in the light of flashlights, who walked somnambulistically through the crowd standing around, finally opened the doors of the showroom and invited everyone outside.

Many designers reported how they got creative during the pandemic and at the same time longed for normal life.

Veronica Etro said after the show that she wanted to spread a positive vibe, wanted to make a collection "that's fun and carefree" - which she undoubtedly succeeded in doing.

Alessandro Michele, who designed a men's collection for Gucci that also wore women, was inspired by an old image of Madonna showing the pop star in an Adidas sports dress.

Gucci and Adidas are now cooperating with each other, the result is a casual retro collection that was staged to loud eighties pop and reflecting disco lights in a completely mirrored hall.

You could have jumped up and danced along, it was so much fun.