Ranking These are the 10 most beautiful towns in Europe (and one is Spanish)
Cadaqués getaway, what to do in one of the most beautiful towns on the Costa Brava
It is one of the most beautiful towns in Catalonia and all of Spain, so it could not be a better place to start this off-season tour of the Costa Brava.
Among its essentials is, of course,
Dalí.
Here is his house in
Portlligat;
his first painting studio;
Marítim, one of his favorite bars;
his
promenade
of him (with his own statue at the stroke of a cane);
his museum with more than 300 of his graphic works, including woodcuts, engravings and lithographs...
Cadaqués is also the
church of Santa María
, from where you can see unique views of this idyllic town on
Cap de Creus,
in Alto Ampurdán.
And the art galleries, the street cats, the charming boutiques, the grocery stores...
The fishing village is perfect as a base of operations to tour the Costa Brava.
By the way, this name has an explanation.
And you have to go back to 1908 to find it.
Then, the columnist
Ferrán Agulló
wrote
"Oh, la nostra costa brava, sense parella al món!"
(Oh, our Costa Brava, without equal in the world!).
This was the name given to the coastline that goes
from Blanes to Portbou,
already on the border with France.
There were those who did not like the term at all, such as the poet Josep Pla, who preferred
the Coral Coast.
He earned the name of Brava, so that the Tourist Board of the area adopted it as a motto.
Panoramic view of the town of Cadaqués.PTCBG
And so until today, it has become
one of the most visited Spanish destinations
by national and international travelers every year.
Especially in summer, but also
out of season
, since its offer goes beyond the sun and the beach.
The ideal route through this paradise can start in Cadaqués and continue in
Rosas, Figueras
and the medieval towns of
Santa Pau and Besalú,
in the region of La Garrocha.
We leave Cadaqués by boat (it is also the best way to get there) aboard the
Restless Spirit,
a catamaran from the
Sailing Costa Brava company,
which sails the waters of the Cap de Creus Natural Park between Rosas and Cadaqués, with stops in idyllic enclaves such as
Cabo Norfeu
or the
coves of Canadell ("one of the best places to practice snorkeling, as pointed out by Aitor Ormaechea, skipper of the boat) or
Montjoi, the hideout of El Bulli
. The experience is completed with a chef on board who prepares a menu based on
delicatessen
such as Ripollesa sheep
recuit
(cottage cheese) with anchovies, Palamós prawns or meatballs with cuttlefish.
Exterior of the Dalí Museum in Figueras. SHUTTERSTOCK
We return to Dalí, this time in Figueras.
He was born and died in the capital of
Alto Ampurdán
, and it is where his "total work" is located, his museum,
the fourth most visited in Spain in 2019
(the one before the pandemic) and among the top 50 internationally.
Setting foot inside is an immersion in surrealism.
Not in vain, "it is the largest object of this artistic movement in the world", confirms the guide Anna María Casals.
It can be seen in the stalls of this
old theater destroyed in the Civil War,
with that portrait that goes from naked Gala to
Abraham Lincoln
himself depending on where you look from.
More of the same in the three-dimensional room dedicated to
Mae West,
where each piece of furniture is strategically designed (and placed) to recreate the face of the actress.
And in the
Treasury room
, in the (literal) form of a jewelery box upholstered in red velvet.
And so on until completing the 1,500 exhibited works.
The room dedicated to Mae West in the Dalí Theater-Museum.SHUTTERSTOCK
Just opposite the
theater-museum
is the church of San Pedro, where Dalí was baptized.
A few minutes away, the
Café Emporium
(now called 365), where he wrote
the script for
El perro andaluz together with
Luis Buñuel
.
And a short walk away, the Can Durán hotel-restaurant, his second home in Figueras.
In his honor, the reserved
Celler de Cala Teta
is wallpapered with photos, posters or letters from him.
Among the specialties of the place, the sweet sausage stands out,
"Dalí's favorite dessert",
comments Ramón Durán, fifth generation in command.
"My grandfather Luis told it, who was in charge of settling the painter's debts in the city, since he never had any money on him and always said:
'Go to the Durán and get paid there,'
" he adds.
Dalí's favorite room in Can Durán, in Figueras.
From Figueras to
Rosas
, with its citadel, its castle and its Visigoth fort.
A good option to sleep is the
Terraza hotel,
on whose roof not only is the spa located, but they also organize dinners under the stars with views of the sea and a menu that uses local products with creative touches.
Examples:
smoked eel with chilli pepper,
mushroom salad or crispy pig's foot with black bean foam and perol sausage.
Roof terrace of the Terraza hotel in Rosas.
20 kilometers away stands the monastery of
San Pedro de Roda
, a jewel of Catalan Romanesque.
After visiting it, we went to La Garrotxa to see two of its most emblematic medieval towns,
Santa Pau and Besalú,
with their respective castles and beautiful cobbled streets.
The second municipality, in addition to having one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in all of Spain, is brand new.
Just a few months ago
, the first Circus Museum in Europe opened its doors in the
Casa del Abad of the former Sant Pere monastery.
Circusland
covers 250 years of the history of the world's greatest show through 6,000 pieces related to this theme.
One of the rooms at the Cal Sastre hotel, in Santa Pau.
To spend the night in Santa Pau, there is no doubt:
Cal Sastre
, a rustic hotel with (a lot of) charm built on two historic stone houses from the 15th century.
The owners are the charming married couple
Jesús Pont and Eva Moliner
.
The name is a tribute to the grandfather of the first, former tailor of the town.
In fact, the decoration recalls this profession with old sewing machines or collections of buttons.
She deals mainly with the day-to-day management, while he is the alma mater of the hotel's renowned
Km0 cuisine restaurant
.
The
Santa Pau beans
, the most emblematic dish in the area, cannot be missing from the order.
"The uniqueness is in the volcanic soil in which they are grown," explains Ponts.
You also have to try the
sausage and mushroom cannelloni
with truffle bechamel.
A real delight.
There are more treasures on the menu: tomato soup,
duck magret on the slab
with red berries or grilled entrecote.
Balloon flight over Besalú, in the region of La Garrocha.I.
GARCIA
It's time not to sleep much because at 6 in the morning you have to be in the nearby town of Olot, from where the
Vol de Coloms
company flies over the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone in a balloon.
Getting up early is worth it when, once at the top, you can see those
sleeping giants
(there are more than 40 of them) in the mist and that pleasant sensation of floating.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET THERE
.
The AVE reaches the cities of Figueras and Girona and the plane also to the latter.
WHERE TO SLEEP.
Located on the beach, the hotel
Terraza
de Rosas, with its roof terrace with sea views, its spa and its interesting gastronomic offer, is a great option.
In Santa Pau, you have to stay at
Cal Sastre
, a cozy hotel with history built on two houses from the 15th century.
Its restaurant serves exquisite (and hearty) local cuisine.
Watch out for breakfast, with its homemade croissants and jam.
Its owners, and Eva, cannot be better hosts.
The Villa Gala
boutique hotel
and the
Playa Sol
are good options to stay in Cadaqués.
WHERE TO EAT.
The restaurant of the
Cal Sastre hotel,
in Santa Pau, is one of the gastronomic essentials of the Garrotxa region.
You should not leave without trying the Santa Pau beans, the Butifarra canalón or the entrecote.
In Cadaqués, the cuisine of
Compartir
stands out , an essential gourmet whose dishes are placed in the center of the table.
Es Baluard
is a great option to taste fish and rice dishes in Cadaqués.
The restaurant of the Cal Sastre hotel, in Santa Pau,
MORE INFORMATION.
On the Costa Brava Pirineu Tourism
website
: www.costabrava.org
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El Mundo Viajes
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