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Paco Rabanne by

Julien

Dossena

has been skipping the official calendar of fashion weeks for several seasons.

He is not the first to do so, and the decision continues to be logical for those who have tight times and do not want to be plunged into the stressful maelstrom that these dates can entail.

An

overwhelmed feeling reminiscent of what (almost) anyone can experience in the midst of a crowd in the big city.

And in both cases, there is a first solution:

breathe deeply and connect with the here and now.

Just what Dossena has proposed in

Paco Rabanne

's autumn-winter 2022/2023 collection

.

And he has done it in a sublime way through

silhouettes and hypnotic textures.

The maxim after the first parade of the winter season (the fashion weeks will start at the beginning of February) is that of the

"sensory perceptions"

and how these can change.

How they do it in the middle of the routine, in the middle of the asphalt, of the nature that appears between the buildings.

Of a multicolored

sunset

.

For this reason, the Instagram filter with which Paco Rabanne gave a preview of what the theme would be was based on changing colorimetry, which is why

the different sensations and emotions are linked to a specific tone

.

The same ones that have involved the few guests who have had the privilege of seeing up close Dossena's approach to

a fashion that is delicate and powerful in equal parts.

With what could be a

guided meditation for beginners

as a soundtrack

, Paco Rabanne's autumn-winter 2022/2023 looks have begun to emerge

as if escaping from a trunk that has survived the passage of time

: the

folds

of many of the

mini skirts

and the short

dresses

are reminiscent of the

bustle

silhouette , that inner shell that replaced the hoop skirt at the end of the 19th century.

There are more references to that period in curly collars, in some pleats; they are mixed with the everlasting

metallic

ones , which more than the classic chain mail, have displayed a

watery quality

reminiscent of molten paw and gold. And although they have had a prominent presence in the latest short dresses and even as interfacing and details of other pieces, these fabrics have not been the absolute protagonists: all the others have been.

It is almost impossible to make a complete list of

all the fabrics that have appeared in the Dossena collection

, because precisely

in them the creative director of the firm has captured those sensations that have spun the discourse.

Who has not experienced

comfort when wrapped in a fluffy sweater or a soft cardigan

? Who hasn't felt that

flash of joy when covering their body with a sequined dress

?

Dossena's bet for Paco Rabanne takes up that idea already present during previous seasons of

seeking connection with the public in the tactile and the visual

: at a time when seeing clothes live is something exceptional,

the textures have to stand out as much as possible. maximum possible so that the viewer can no longer visualize them, but feel them without having to be present in a room.

And this time, the goal is fulfilled.

The '

paillettes

' have been mixed with

mohair

, the 'casual' of a

cardigan

, with the specialness of those

skirts

reminiscent of the bustle; the simplicity of a plain sweater, with the

romance of an XL white collar with broderie anglaise

. The

controlled but prominent volume of the hips

(and sometimes of the structured shoulders), contrasts with

a tight and marked waist

, without half measures. A very defined silhouette that has been repeated as a leitmotif and that can remind us of traditional and normative femininity but that, however, has nothing smug about it.

The body that has been seen to the rhythm of those deep breaths and the "right now" that sounded like a mantra can remember everything and nothing.

Some temporal and aesthetic references have already been mentioned, but the magic of the creative director (as it happens with all good creatives) is to add something,

a secret ingredient that transforms it into something that is unlike anything that has been seen, in what is to come.

And that future is part of

escapist

,

precious

, avant-

garde

,

happy nostalgia, optimism.

If so, if it is with these garments: let autumn arrive.

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