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Paco Rabanne by
Julien
Dossena
has been skipping the official calendar of fashion weeks for several seasons.
He is not the first to do so, and the decision continues to be logical for those who have tight times and do not want to be plunged into the stressful maelstrom that these dates can entail.
An
overwhelmed feeling reminiscent of what (almost) anyone can experience in the midst of a crowd in the big city.
And in both cases, there is a first solution:
breathe deeply and connect with the here and now.
Just what Dossena has proposed in
Paco Rabanne
's autumn-winter 2022/2023 collection
.
And he has done it in a sublime way through
silhouettes and hypnotic textures.
The maxim after the first parade of the winter season (the fashion weeks will start at the beginning of February) is that of the
"sensory perceptions"
and how these can change.
How they do it in the middle of the routine, in the middle of the asphalt, of the nature that appears between the buildings.
Of a multicolored
sunset
.
For this reason, the Instagram filter with which Paco Rabanne gave a preview of what the theme would be was based on changing colorimetry, which is why
the different sensations and emotions are linked to a specific tone
.
The same ones that have involved the few guests who have had the privilege of seeing up close Dossena's approach to
a fashion that is delicate and powerful in equal parts.
With what could be a
guided meditation for beginners
as a soundtrack
, Paco Rabanne's autumn-winter 2022/2023 looks have begun to emerge
as if escaping from a trunk that has survived the passage of time
: the
folds
of many of the
mini skirts
and the short
dresses
are reminiscent of the
bustle
silhouette , that inner shell that replaced the hoop skirt at the end of the 19th century.
There are more references to that period in curly collars, in some pleats; they are mixed with the everlasting
metallic
ones , which more than the classic chain mail, have displayed a
watery quality
reminiscent of molten paw and gold. And although they have had a prominent presence in the latest short dresses and even as interfacing and details of other pieces, these fabrics have not been the absolute protagonists: all the others have been.
It is almost impossible to make a complete list of
all the fabrics that have appeared in the Dossena collection
, because precisely
in them the creative director of the firm has captured those sensations that have spun the discourse.
Who has not experienced
comfort when wrapped in a fluffy sweater or a soft cardigan
? Who hasn't felt that
flash of joy when covering their body with a sequined dress
?
Dossena's bet for Paco Rabanne takes up that idea already present during previous seasons of
seeking connection with the public in the tactile and the visual
: at a time when seeing clothes live is something exceptional,
the textures have to stand out as much as possible. maximum possible so that the viewer can no longer visualize them, but feel them without having to be present in a room.
And this time, the goal is fulfilled.
The '
paillettes
' have been mixed with
mohair
, the 'casual' of a
cardigan
, with the specialness of those
skirts
reminiscent of the bustle; the simplicity of a plain sweater, with the
romance of an XL white collar with broderie anglaise
. The
controlled but prominent volume of the hips
(and sometimes of the structured shoulders), contrasts with
a tight and marked waist
, without half measures. A very defined silhouette that has been repeated as a leitmotif and that can remind us of traditional and normative femininity but that, however, has nothing smug about it.
The body that has been seen to the rhythm of those deep breaths and the "right now" that sounded like a mantra can remember everything and nothing.
Some temporal and aesthetic references have already been mentioned, but the magic of the creative director (as it happens with all good creatives) is to add something,
a secret ingredient that transforms it into something that is unlike anything that has been seen, in what is to come.
And that future is part of
escapist
,
precious
, avant-
garde
,
happy nostalgia, optimism.
If so, if it is with these garments: let autumn arrive.
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