Dawn or dusk?
Hard to say.
From November to February, the sun no longer really indicates the hours around the Arctic Circle.
A hesitant clarity then drags on the Dantesque landscapes of Iceland.
It is no coincidence that filmmaker Terrence Malik chose this country to capture the mystery of origins in his documentary
Voyage of Time
.
Indeed, this island in the North Atlantic is one of the youngest land in the world.
As large as a fifth of France, it has some 130 volcanoes which alone spread a third of all the magma emitted on the planet!
This hyperactivity is linked to the position of the island, straddling two continental plates which crack the earth's crust by moving apart two centimeters per year.
Iceland therefore continues to grow, to gain ground.
Shaped by eruptions and the glacial debacles they generate, the country's panoramas are the scene of extravagant stories.
Long before the writing of medieval sagas, the disturbing environment of this
Terra Borealis
suggested to the Vikings who came from Norway the existence of a hidden people: the "Huldufólk".
Legends tell that these nature spirits are concentrated on the southern coast of the island, where volcanic chaos offers them comfortable dens.
Here, mossy rocks are home to benevolent elves.
There, peaks with tormented shapes are trolls petrified by the light of day.
These can be seen while traveling on Route 1 which circles Iceland.
When we ask the inhabitants of Selfoss or Höfn on this subject, few admit to believing it.
But you never know ... Thus, you can no longer count the number of interrupted sites or deviated roads to spare the shelter of an elf.
Masterpieces from the South
Between each eruption of a volcano with an unpronounceable name, the Hyperborean landscape of Iceland does not lend itself to poetic fables. Above all, it invites contemplation. In the south of the country, impressive paintings composed by nature are exhibited by the roadside and require no effort to be admired. There is no green more intense than the grass that lines the gorges of Fjaðrárgljúfur, no black deeper than the beaches of Cape Dyrhólaey, nor red more powerful than the molten lava, which can be seen from up close, in complete safety, during demonstrations that are unique in the world in Vík.
Only the tumult of the waterfalls briefly interrupts the serenity of the trip.
But the breaks in the landscape which precipitate the rivers between the basaltic walls are so many magical visions.
At the slightest ray of sunshine, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls give their visitors a rainbow, as if to apologize for the din.
Return to calm, facing another natural wonder.
On the opaline waters of the Jökulsárlón Lagoon, the azure walls of lazy icebergs sparkle under a pale sun, suspended on the horizon.
A true polar landscape, photogenic to perfection, with, as a backdrop, the virginal cap of Vatnajökull.
As extensive as Corsica, it is the largest glacier in Europe.
But like its cousins on the mainland, it is retreating at an alarming rate.
In its bowels, rivers of cast iron end up digging galleries which light up as they approach the surface.
These ephemeral cavities are not shown on the maps.
They can still be visited thanks to companies that regulate attendance.
500 people a day all the same… Whatever!
A few steps under these vaults of sparkling ice are enough to be satisfied with beauty.
The great boreal thrill
A furnace haunts the depths of these Icelandic splendors.
The magma that simmers in their depths overheats waters which end up escaping in phantasmagorical clouds called fumaroles.
Geothermal energy is another aspect of Icelandic volcanism.
This natural energy is particularly well exploited in the flower and vegetable greenhouses of Hveragerði.
We even grow bananas in these arctic tropics!
On the shore of Lake Laugarvatn, the water which boils fifty centimeters from the surface has been used for generations for cooking food.
Today, the site is not only used to raise tasty rye breads, but it is also popular with hedonists who come to bask in the deliciously hot pools of the Fontana complex.
There is nothing more Icelandic than this outdoor bathing ritual. Each locality has its own swimming pool where you can go to a café, to meet, discuss, toast and, incidentally, to swim. At nightfall, we meet in these outdoor baths to admire the most spectacular phenomenon of these high latitudes. What a pleasure to attend the celestial ballet of the Northern Lights, comfortably immersed in the steaming vapors!
Difficult to predict, these chimerical gleams, most often greenish, appear when solar particles electromagnetize on contact with the upper atmosphere.
To see them, the sky must be clear, preferably moonless, and devoid of stray lights.
From their hiding places, elves and trolls must also watch for their appearance.
The sagas say they would point the way to Valhalla, the domain of the Viking gods.
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Throughout the year, the Icelandair airline operates daily flights to Icelandic Keflavík airport from Paris.
Each period has its advantages.
In winter, the country lives in slow motion.
There are fewer visitors and now is the best time to see the Northern Lights.
To get there, it is currently mandatory to present a certificate of vaccination against Covid-19 as well as a negative test, PCR or antigen, less than 72 hours.
A form must also be completed online to obtain a bar code to present before departure.
Housing
Gateway to southern Iceland, ideally located between the capital Reykjavík and the tourist area of the "Golden Circle", the small horticultural and bohemian town of Hveragerði has an excellent hotel park. With large outdoor swimming pools, the Ork hotel is particularly appreciated for the quality of its Hver restaurant. In the center of the village, The Greenhouse is a brand new address, linked to an ambitious project for the sustainable development of the local tourist offer (seminar center, glamping, zip line, etc.). Mindful of its impact on the environment, the establishment is decorated with recycled furniture and works by local artists. To limit the use of plastic, its rooms are not locked by cards, but by codes that can be obtained online, without going through reception.Staying here finally gives access to many services: municipal swimming pool, spa, golf course and electric bikes to reach the Reykjadalur geothermal site.
Two other comfortable and elegant addresses for exploring the South: the UMI hotel and the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon.
Both isolated on the side of Route 1, they are very suitable for viewing the Northern Lights.
In order not to wait in vain for their appearance, it is enough to register on a call list at the reception.
Restore
Recently renovated in a traditional and colorful style, the center of Selfoss invites you to take a gourmet break on route 1. Housed in a former dairy, its gastronomic hall with many bars and restaurants also houses a permanent exhibition dedicated to Skyr.
The opportunity to learn more about this creamy Icelandic yogurt, very low in fat, and already consumed 1,000 years ago by the Vikings.
Across the Southwest region, many agricultural greenhouses use geothermal energy and artificial light to produce fruits and vegetables 365 days a year.
Open to the public, those of Friðheimar specialize in growing tomatoes.
Nearly two tonnes per day are harvested here!
From soup to dessert to beer, the tomato is therefore the star of the restaurant installed in the greenhouse, facing the rows.
To have
Very difficult living conditions until the middle of the 20th century did not favor Iceland's historical heritage.
But near Selfoss, the Hella cellars are among the rare archaeological sites that allow you to imagine the daily life of the first settlers.
The twelve caves dug in the basement of this locality are, in fact, the oldest testimonies of the population of the island.
Some, bearing runic inscriptions, would even predate the arrival of the Vikings.
In the light of torches, a visit laden with mysteries!
Nature
Arctic
Trip
Iceland
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