Twenty million people from around the world travel to Paris every year and consider themselves lucky to see the Eiffel Tower.
Christoph Kunz from Freiburg went to Paris and found his happiness in not seeing the Eiffel Tower, which in turn is related to the lucky number seven, and this is how it happened: The school career of young Mr. Kunz was marked by a certain lack of seriousness, which is why his mother called him put an educational measure in the scullery of a hotelier friend of mine during the summer holidays.
Jakob Strobel y Serra
Deputy head of the features section.
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It was a wise decision, because the boy knew immediately that he wanted to be a cook, and a very good one. That is why he did an apprenticeship with the best in his hometown, with Alfred Klink in "Colombi", quickly became his master's student and at the end of his apprenticeship he received seven letters of recommendation for seven top restaurants. Six were in Germany, but the seventh was Alain Ducasse's “Le Jules Verne” in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant whose predecessor Guy de Maupassant had chosen as his favorite restaurant because he loathed the tower and thus saved himself the hated sight. The poet would have found it difficult to have a conversation with the young German cook, however, as he did not speak a word of French when the Paris adventure began - further proof that Kunz has always had his own mind.
View of the Marienhof in Munich
In the meantime, he is no longer looking at the Marsfeld, but from the “Alois” on the first floor of the Dallmayr delicatessen store at the Marienhof in Munich.
But he still retained his youthful stubbornness in his mid-thirties.
He already shows this with the greetings from the kitchen, which refuse to accept any convention and instead are the fruit of hard culinary mental work.
He boldly combines Jerusalem artichoke cream with cranberry juice, fennel mascarpone with caviar, sweet potato crustat with Fontina cheese foam, kumamoto oyster with buttermilk, blueberries, spruce sprouts and leaves his guests in no doubt that they too have their heads have to make an effort to understand this cuisine.
Before one comes to a final result, the intellectuality at the stove goes on.
A king crab is confined in butter, slowly warmed to 42 degrees and thus soft like a mousse.
As a contrast, there is citrus vinaigrette, saffron cream, jam made from the peel of Sicilian grapefruit and salsify slices in vin jaune - all components that are a little strange to each other than to make friends at first glance and bite.
But that's exactly what Kunz accepts, who never takes the easy route, but prefers to rack his brains about how to astonish his guests without frightening them.
Most of the time, the mental work works
When the chef has to choose between sensuality and sensuality, he always tends to go for the former.
Sometimes he lacks a pinch of the latter, for example the black truffle with fermented raspberries, cauliflower and lovage, a course that is carefully thought out in its contradictions, but also somewhat brittle, in which every ingredient becomes a loner.